Westerners come to wrong conclusions about Japan because of incorrect associations: politeless and social discipline goes with cleanliness and neatness.
Yes, the Japanese are polite, and society is orderly. Crime is low. Traffic flows in a reasonably sensible manner. But how many people who have never been here (or who have but have never stepped outside Ginza) have the following images of Japan?
Clean, neat home. The hostess is seiza-ing on the tatamiin front of the tokonoma (which contains a single elegant scroll), pouring a cup for you of frothy maccha. Grandma plays the shamisen in the corner. Ah, the tea ceremony–the true essence of Japanese culture!
Busy but neat, organized office. The desks are spotless–a single speck and a samurai comes to chop off your head. Opening random drawers reveals an advanced and disciplined system of item-placement and filing completely unknown in the primitive West. E-mail inboxes are nearly empty. Oh, the regimented Japanese corporation–source of limitless productivity!
Now let’s take a look at the realities:
House
In the city, cramped shitty construction. Cartoonish and gauche appearance for the exterior. Perhaps this can’t be helped. But inside, chaos reigns. Cheap furniture illy arranged–where is the high living and ample Japanese lifestyle so oft spoken of? No concept of neatness and storage exists. Daikon and cabbages lie on the floor–hell, they won’t rot before we use them. Bright cheap curtains. Vulgar kitsch serves as decoration–crap from Hawaii and countless omiyage from around the world (can’t toss it out–friends and family have given it too us). Chests block sliding doors. Windows are similarly violated. Opening closets and drawers reveals chaos.
If it’s an old person’s house, one is lucky to get basic clenliness. Dinge and soot reign. The wallpaper has not been changed in 25 years. Junk is scattered everywhere, and there are rooms now filled completely with crap, unusable. Bicycle rims and rotten wooden planks fill the “garden.”
Office
Imagine the sloppiest desk in the US–papers piled and scattered, unneeded items, well, piled and scattered–and multiply by 50. The e-mail account is overdrawn. Opening drawers reveals chaos.
The above are NOT exaggerations. Some of the house stuff is based on my own dwelling (the in-laws), which, praise Jezus we are about the vacate. But I have not even told half here. I have also been in many, many Japanese homes and offices in my 8 years here, and above are the average, not worst cases.
Put simply, the concept of neatness, elegance, and refinement just don’t exist here. People with substantial incomes and who should know better live like swine. This doesn’t even touch upon the cramped and asinine housing designs one finds here.
This country is fuckin’ sloppy, and the oldies seem to be doing their best to flush it. We went house hunting, and everywhere you go you see oldies happily living in conditions that, in the US, would unambiguously qualify as slum living–in “nice” parts of Tokyo and Yokohama, too.
Japan, really–it’s time to grow up. For all your big economy and semi-ancient culture, you sure do live like a two-year-old: sloppy, ignorant, unsophisticated, and not giving a damn, either.
But the food is good. That’s the saving grace, I guess.