See post # 16 :smack:
Daylate, indeed. 
Sandpaper is underrated for sharpening. But ask 20 million woodworkers and they’ll tell you that’s what they use to tune up their blades along with water stones, polishing wheels and strops.
Personally, I’m trying to master free-hand sharpening. Those sharpening devices work well for small, thin blades that you want to hone to hair-splitting sharpness. But they’re practically useless for blades longer than 10 inches (or maybe you want to spend the whole day sharpening?)
Among the sharpening gurus at bladeforums.com, this guy taught me practically everything about sharpening:
I could see that, but how do you secure the sandpaper down or am I missing something?
Damp sandpaper sticks to glass fairly well, and will suffice if you’re careful. Otherwise you can just use a spray-on adhesive, or buy adhesive-backed sandpaper.
You’re missing something. The Work Sharp deviceis a small belt sander for small to medium blades. No axes or hatchets.
It uses a narrow belt, and runs it by a blade holder at a precise angle. You can purchase and use finer and finer grit belts.
Another sandpaper approach is the 2 wheel system. One wheel has carbide dust glued to the perimeter, the other is just laminated cardboard for polishing. I have these as well, and they work pretty well.
In some circles I’m also known as “Dollar Short”
And another thing about this sharpener. You don’t have to take as much time as a master Japanese sword maker to put that razor edge on a knife. About two minutes per blade will do it.
OK, I know about belt and disk sanders but for some reason the word sandpaper had me picturing a plain old sheet of the stuff
^
And that’s exactly what some free hand sharpeners use. They cut the sheets to size and attach them to slats of wood. They use clips or rubber bands so they can just attach progressively finer grit paper on the same piece of wood.
OK - that answers my question - thank you.
Looking at the price of the 130, are you sure there is not a model “13” that is almost as good?
I’ve seen butchers use something like HEAL'S Official Site | Modern Contemporary Furniture Store | HEAL’S (UK) but with only 1 pair of springs. I think industry knows best, so that design should be good/cheap/fast.
Something nobody’s mentioned: how do you sharpen serrated knives? I have a Buck one like http://www.amazon.com/Chef-Master-90015-Professional-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B001J7Z814?tag=5336612429-20 (post 4) that says it can sharpen serrated knives but I feel it’s only sharpening half of the serrations.
Also, can you use a Dremel to sharpen knives? Seems like it’s the perfect tool for the job, but nobody mentions it (except chainsaw and lawn mower blades).
Just wanted to say thanks for the video channel link. I’ve been trying to learn to use a sharpening stone, and I picked up some tips there that should help.
Personally, I don’t see why a serrated (Spyder-edge brand) needs to be sharpened. But sharpen them people do. They use either a slim sharpening rod (round) or the corner triangle of a spyderco sharpmaker rod. It’s a delicate process, which is why most of them do it by hand. But there’s one guy who uses a wheel. Yootoob will show you a lot of results.
I’ve used a number of flat stones over the years, including DMT synthetic stones, which with practice are good for putting very fine razor edges on blades, but are tedious for larger blades. Alignment systems like Spyderco and Lansky are fine for small pocket knives but are difficult and tedious for larger knives and completely impractical for large blades. Professional knifemakers and edged tool manufacturers use belt sanders with guides to ensure a consistent edge on knives. The Work Shop sharpening tools are about the closest thing that is reasonable portable. Three grits of stone (plus a finish on an extra-fine flat stone or strop) is sufficient for any practical need.
It is a myth (mostly spread by Vector Marketing, the advertising arm of Cutco Knives) that serrated blades do not need to be sharpened. While serrations concentrate the cutting force on a smaller cutting surface, that edge will wear with use and the blade will become dull and prone to tearing rather than cutting. I bought a friend a Wustof Ikon Santoku to supplement her Cutco knife set, and the difference between her “never sharpen” serrated knives (admittedly, made of a soft steel that cannot maintain a good edge for any significant work) and the santoku was night and day. Serrated knives require special alignment tools and/or rods to sharpen, and I generally use a DMT rattail sharpener rather than muck about with triangle stones and alignment tools, which works well enough.
Stranger
No. It doesn’t take micro precision (or practice) to use rods.
because I dug mine out to measure the length of the ceramic rods I decided to sharpen some knives. Took me 30 seconds to bring 3 knives back to a hair shaving edge. Of course, the first angle was already set on my knives so I just needed to apply the final angled edge.
Sure, just like there’s a Buck 11 that’s almost as good.
My 130 cost me about the same as any one of my kitchen knives, and I have only middlin’ grade Wusthofs. I think they deserve more than a $20 sharpener.
I have the Smith’s kit in the OP, and I like it just fine for small blades. I recently used it to make our steak knives so sharp that my wife is afraid of them. Build quality isn’t the greatest, but I didn’t have any of the problems that the one-star reviewer had. However, it kinda sucks for anything longer than a steak knife.
I have a whole collection of sharpening crap, but lately I’ve mostly been using this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-bandfile-belt-sander-92158.html
I used it in desperation to sharpen this monster, nothing else worked because of the crazy blade shape: http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7860-Brush-Axe/dp/B000F99IEU
It wound up putting an edge on that thing that could shave half my arm at a go. I made a little jig to hold the blade a constant angle, and I clamp it in my workbench’s front vise, it works great.
Now this kit looks interesting, like a Lasky or Gatco on steroids. Link goes to a video demonstration of the system.
Say, Rick, Don’t you have a knife sharpener you swear by? Or was that silenus?
That looks great; especially the Field & Sport model. I could shave with my kitchen knives (Henckels) after using my Wüsthof sharpener. I like that it uses cross sticks instead of circular stones. (And yes, I have tried a couple of them on the hair on the back of my hand, just to see.) These are working knives that I use every day. No need for the extreme sharpening shown in the video.
My ‘sport’ knives are another matter. As a teen I carried a Buck 110 on my belt and it was used frequently. Nowadays I find a Swiss Army Knife more useful. I don’t use my ‘sport’ knives very much. But I do like the idea of them being sharp. Some of them have had a lot of use. Some, like the Bowie I made, never were particularly sharp. These are the ones that would benefit from something like the Wicked Edge system. It looks like the basic system would be perfect for putting a proper edge on them.
Thanks!