Okay, I’m guilty. I use this little foolproof sharpener. The directions are simple: pull knife through five times, rinse, dry, ready. It does sharpen my knives, but yes, I do need to use a bit of force and yes, it gets tiny nicks on the blade. So what am I supposed to use then ? Those sharpening irons just seem to difficult to use.
Nitpick - what you’re talking about is honing, not sharpening. Honing you can do at home with any number of gizmos; sharpening requires an actual grindstone and is best done by professionals.
I thought I was done by having and using an honing gizmo, but apparently, anything worth having, like a reallyreallyreally sharp kitchen knife, requires some effort.
The trouble is that honing and sharpening are the kind of activities that don’t offer feedback if you are doing it wrong. I have seen whetting stones used in my youth, and have tried them. But I soon found out that however what I do looks like what a pro does, it still doesn’t result in a sharp knife, and often in a knife that is actually duller or has little nicks.
So I guess I have to find a weathered old wise man somewhere and ask him to teach me how to whet/hone a knife and when to take it to a pro for sharpening.
:: hums The Bride goes to Hanzo tune from Kill Bill::
When I sharpen a knife, I usually use a whet stone. that said, it’s rare for me to need a terribly sharp knife since the main things I ever cut with my pocket knives are bits of string or cardboard boxes.
My kitchen knives, on the other hand, tend to be of the unsharpenable variety.
I bring mine to the local hardware (i.e., non-big box) store. They’ll sharpen all mine for a flat fee. I take them there maybe 3-4 times a year?
I also have one of those V-shaped tools I use in-between times. The only way I can tell if they’re working is if I immediately try cutting something that’s been “difficult” after pushing it through there a few times.
I use this. My understanding is it has two graduated honing plates, that you can use pretty regularly, and then it has the actual sharpening plate, to be used on occasion. Typically I use the steel that came with my knife set before each cutting task, and when I notice I’m having trouble slicing neatly through things, I use my sharpener. It most definitely restores that “bite” that allows me to laugh derisively at tough tomato skins.
My dad is hardcore and uses a whetstone. But I know I’d never be able to maintain the proper angle myself. I like my little magnet-guided idiot-proof gizmo. Having them sharpened by a professional would no doubt be the best, but the Chef’s Choice does a nice job with less complications.
Oh and you absolutely are not to use pressure with it. The instructions are very clear about using a light touch to simply draw the blade through the mechanism - NEVER press down!
I have 2 whetstones; a Norton India/Crystolon combination stone, and an extra fine green stone of some sort. My grandfather (a butcher at one point) taught me how to use them.
I also have one of those carbide gizmos that you can sharpen scissors with (why I bought it) and that you can sharpen knives with. It’s hell on the blade, but does leave a sharp edge. I use it on the cheaper knives.
I have another gizmo that’s a pair of crossed ceramic sticks- it’s good for keeping a decent edge.
Finally, I got a Waring pro motorized knife sharpening appliance- it works very well, but can thrash your blades if you’re not careful.
I hone my knives (not as often as I should, but more frequently than most) myself, and every couple of years I take them to a pro to get them resharpened. I have toyed with the idea of learning to sharpen them myself, but I cook a lot and don’t want to mess around and ruin one of my few good knives. It’s like $2 a knife and 3 days wait to get the guy to do it for me. Way worth it.
I have one really good chef knife that I use almost exclusively and I sharpen it with a 1000 grit Japanese waterstone from Lee Valley.
I sharpen as often as I need to, depending on how much abuse it has received, it can be 2 - 3months between sharpenings. As soon as the knife indents a tomato as part of the cut I haul out the stone. It takes longer to wet the stone than it does to sharpen the knife.
It’s not rocket science… stainless steel, which most knives are, grinds very slowly so it’s very difficult with typical sharpening stones to do any real damage to the cutting bevel. The fancier Japanese knives or carbon knives are likely a very different story but the typical SS knife is hard enough to be forgiving on a newbie sharpener when learning to find the proper angle for the knife.
I hone my knives before every use (because my wife and mother-in-law can’t be bothered to do so - else I’d hone them every other use). I use this sharpener for quick, one-off sharpening touch-ups, when honing just isn’t cutting it anymore. It’s quick, easy, and was the highest rated by America’s Test Kitchen for manual knife sharpeners. About every six months, I lug out this electric sharpener and do all of my knives.
This, or any other jig that maintains a constant angle. I’ve spent too much time resettting the bevel on other people’s knives that were sharpened on a bench stone. They ALL looked more like this U than this V. Finishing with the white ceramic “stone” (IIRC 1000 grit) or better the sapphire “stone” (IIRC 2000 grit), scary, hair popping, sharp!
The little finger held ones with either two white (fine) or two white and two grey/black (coarse) ceramic rods, like this? Five or ten very light passes on the white every time I use a knife in the kitchen.
The tungsten carbide are nice for starting a ruined edge, and ruining a nice edge.
(The trick to using them is also a light touch)
I took a class the price of which included my very own stone.
I have some expensive chefs knives that I never use. One was sharpened past the tang, i.e., trashed, the other chefs knife is just too big for my hand. My everyday cooking knives, and I cook a lot, are the $2 thin stainless mini cleavers bought in Chinatown plus quite a few paring knives accumulated from various sources. I use the stone + oil to sharpen them, five strokes to a side, then checking if it’s sharp enough, usually takes a few repeats. A quick once over with sponge & soap to get the oil & metal particles off and I’m done for the moment.