Ladies Road Trip: Oregon Coast (Helpful Info Welcome!)

Miscellaneous and Personal Stuff I Must Share
1

My girlfriend and I just roughed out our plans for a road trip from Vancouver down the Oregon Coast in mid-October. We are following Highway 101 as far south as Brookings and then working our way back up again over the course of 9 days. From the looks of the map and travel info we have from AAA and the state tourism board, we’re not going to be getting a lot of mileage per day as we rubberneck our way down the coast, but we half-expect that we’ll have to haul ass to get back to Van in time for work again.

The itinerary as we have developed it so far:
Saturday: Vancouver to Astoria
Sunday: Astoria to Tillamook
Monday: Tillamook to Newport
Tuesday: Newport to Florence
Wednesday: Florence to Brookings
Thurs-Sun: wandering back north again

Although we have a fair bit of generic info on what to see & do, if any of you in the area have insight, we’re all ears!

I do actually have one question: I have a dim memory, from a family road trip to Disneyland, that there is a redwood tree you are able to drive through. Am I remembering correctly, and if so, where is that in relation to Brookings? My mom just looks at me funny when I ask.

2

Sinshine, you are in for a treat. One of the nicest places in the world, the Oregon coast is. I suggest a small turnoff between Newport and Florence, it’s called Strawberry Hill, and it’s a great spot. There are plenty of rocks and tide pools to scramble around on and in. There is some beach, not too big, but great collection of rocks and shells to look at and a lot of cool driftwood. There are also several outcroppings just off shore which are teeming with sealions. You can stand on the rocks not too far away and watch them. I’ve spent many an afternoon just hanging out in the spot. Flying kites, picking up rocks, building sandcastles. Ahhh, the smokey days of High School…

Anyhoo, the redwood you drive through is in Northern California somewhere…a bit further than the furthest south you plan to go.

Have fun! Funny, I’m coming up your way in not too long, road trip to Vancouver Island at the end of the month.

:smiley: Yay vacations!!!

3

Thank you for that suggestion, it is now marked on our map.

Do you have a sense of what town this redwood is in? I can probably spare a bit of time to swing by there and show my friend, if it’s not too out of our way.

4

I just did a quick google on drive through tree and the one I remember going to when I was about 13 or so with mom and pop is in Klamath, California…sorry, don’t have a map handy, so don’t know how much further that is, though I think you’ll find that will add at least two days to your trip. Here is the link:
Big old trees with holes in them

5

You’ve got to do the dune rides through the desert! I don’t remember where that is, but it’s somewhere on or near the coast. Pretty fun experience.

F_X

6

A handy help in your planning could be this Oregon Parks guide Click on the map for each section of the coast and it will expand to show you location and attractions.

Some of my favorites, going north to south:

Devil’s Punch Bowl and Marine Gardens with a nifty natural rock formation. Then, from the parking lot, hike down a nice trail to the beach known as the marine gardens, where the rocks hold some nifty tide pools with small fish, sea anemones, hermit crabs, starfish and such. Check the tide tables (avalable in every local paper and for free at most motels) for a nice low tide to see the biggest pools.

The Oregon Coast Aquarium is a must see. This is where Keiko the whale of “Free Willy” fame stayed until he was hauled to Norway. Not to be missed is the huge tank full of mesmerizing jellyfish, floating as if in space.

Darlingtonia Botannical Wayside where you can walk on the boardwalks over the bog to see the Darlingtonia, also called the cobra lily, “The rare, strangely-shaped plant is the only member of the pitcher plant family (Sarraceniaceae) in Oregon.” It’s a nifty little spot that won’t take much time to visit but is unlike anything else you’re likely to encounter.

Enjoy, but plan for plenty of traffic on Highway 101. South of Waldport, the relentless strip development thins out some and there are spectacular vistas and a less crowded feeling.

Enjoy, and remember, there’s no sales tax in Oregon!

7

Not much redwood in Oregon. Do not fear though, the only thing you will run out of is film. Bring lots.

The Oregon coast is some of the most scenic in the entire world. Make sure to photograph every one of the fabulous WPA era coastal river bridges that you cross. Your eyes will bug out when you see these art deco masterpieces. Ornamental urns ensconce the portals of fantastic webbed arches leading over empty space and delta floodtides.

If you are fond of seafood, do not miss the fresh caught shrimp. It is better than most restaurant lobster. Grab yourself a bottle of Crosse & Blackwell’s seafood sauce, a pound of shrimp, a few lemons plus a loaf of French bread and a bottle of white wine. You will enter gastronomic paradise. If you prefer salmon, your dreams will still come true as you roam among white sand beaches, rocky shores and tree covered slopes.

If either of you are fond of sea mammals, consider stopping off at Sea Lion Caves. It is the largest sea cave in the world and has a colony of sea lions who reside there. It is stinky and overpriced, but worth every dime as an example of one of the most unique ocean grottoes on earth.

On the other hand, The Avenue of the Giants has trees that are older than Christ. I’d strongly recommend a quick jaunt down into California. You might also want to visit the Carson Mansion in Eureka or maybe even Ferndale. Touring this little coastal burg is like entering a time machine. Golen Gate Mercantile specializes in selling very old fashioned candies and goods from yesteryear and the entire town is steeped in west coast history.

Let me know if you need more persuasion. Please make sure to click on all of the coastal bridge pictures. They are among the most beautiful in all of America. If you skip any tour of California, consider going out of your way and seeing Crater Lake. The photos give nothing away compared to when you finally arrive there.

8

I lived on the north Oregon coast for years. I would advise to skip Astoria and Tillamook.

Seaside is only a few miles down the street from Astoria and while it isn’t the culture center of the coast, it’s better then Astoria. There really isn’t much in either town, but there’s less in Astoria.

Let me put it this way. In the 7+ years I lived in Seaside I only went to Astoria if I HAD to.

Skip Tillamook all together. It is the armpit of the world. Take the few extra minutes and hit up Lincoln City. It’s a coast town (Tillamook isn’t).

One word though, Oregon Coast people are a strange lot. Don’t trust them with ANYTHING. Esp in Seaside. They will say and do anything to get that dollar out of your pocket.

Also a word of warning about food. In the north coast area just stay away from Seafood. The popular places are overpriced with rude staff and crap food. Mo’s and Doogers (popular in Seaside and Cannon Beach) come to mind.

9

Oh yeah, if you find yourself wanting time around Bandon, and you like animals, check out the West Coast Game Park. they have a huge collection of animals from all over and they seem to really take good care of them.

There are tons of animals walking around free in the park plus they bring out various baby and exotic critters for people to get up close and personal with. It’s really a treat.

10

Speaking as a visitor and not as as someone who’s lived there for awhile, Astoria isn’t too bad if all you’re going to do is stay overnight or something. Fort Clatsop, the place where Lewis and Clark wintered before turning back eastward, is nearby and fairly interesting. Also, the Astoria Column offers an impressive panorama of the coast and the mouth of the Columbia River (weather permitting).

What? And miss touring the Tillamook Cheese Factory? :smiley:

As for restaurants in the Astoria-Seaside area, I haven’t been to Mo’s or Dooger’s but they are kind of “touristy” type places. I thought the Ship Inn in Astoria was good and you might want to stop for a cone at the Custard King drive-in (also in Astoria). In any case, when searching for a good place to eat in an unfamiliar town, one thing I do is to ask a local where he or she likes to go. So far, this tactic has worked fairly well.

11

Generally, driving down 101 is a quick and easy drive. You’ll have lots of places to pull over and take photos and little things to do. Be sure to hit tourist information centres along the way for useful coupons to some of the attractions in the area.

The Sea Lion Caves are wonderful and worth the couple of hours to do it.

Here is a nifty link to a few things to do whilst driving down the Oregon Coast. The Prehistoric Gardens, whilst a bit cheesy, is fun and a very nice walk through dense fern growth and huge trees. I like it…

From Brookings, the next “big” town down on 101 is Crescent City - about 15 miles. There, you will find an Under Sea Adventure touristy thing that has a touchy tide pool, petting sharks, and lots of fish. It has been there since before I was born - yonks ago - but if that is the kind of thing you like… There is a wonderful drive around there though through the redwoods. The area is Stout Grove. Easy to find, but feel free to email me for directions if you’d like.

Klamath, where you’ll find the Drive-thru tree, is another 15-18 miles south. Just before the tree, there is the Trees of Mystery - recognisable by the huge Paul Bunyon and Babe. They make the most brilliant homemade fudge in tons of flavours. There is also a Native Indian museum there (free) with tons of local stuff.

Back North, Tillamook has a lovely cheese factory.

Bandon has the cranberry candy stores and items. Lots of touristy shops to buy goodies and prezzies.

As for the idea of the Avenue of Giants and Crater Lake, unless you want to add a few days onto your journey, stick to what you have planned. Eureka* is an hour and a half (if you’re a lead-foot and know the roads) from Crescent City. The mansion isn’t all that interesting and has been turned into a Gentleman’s Club, so the most you could do is drive by and gawk. I’ve photos is you want to see the horrid green building. Avenue of the Giants is about 4-5 hours further South - though impressive and quite enjoyable. Crater Lake is fantastic (used to work there), but would require a day out of your itenerary to see it. Believe me, it is definitely beautiful, but something you need to plan for. Also, in October you will hit a bit of snow going up the mountain. Not fun if you aren’t used to it and the 10 MPH corners are bad enough on a clear day, let alone with snow.

*If you do decide to go down to Eureka, I most highly recommend eating at the Samoa Cookhouse just outside Eureka. Great food, fresh bread, very friendly staff. Worth the visit.

I hope you enjoy your trip.

12

Just a few miles south of Cannon Beach, across a small bridge, is a turnoff to my favorite place in the whole world, Arcadia Beach. When I was a kid, we’d go rent a cottage up on the bluff from this old couple during spring break, and my sister and I would spend all day in our raincoats and rubber boots playing on the beach.

It’s now a state park area, and where the cottages used to stand is a small parking lot, but the beach is still just wonderful – about a mile and a half long, lots of rocks and tide pools, driftwood, tiny creeks running out to the ocean, very few if any other people around. And there’s a large rock out in the water that has always looked to me like a buffalo lying down. It’s the only place from my childhood that is still as wonderful as ever. I recommend a short stop there to walk along the water and breathe the fresh sea breeze and appreciate the peace and quiet!!

13

Now I’m getting really excited. I looked over my friend’s info package, received from the state board, and thought we were in for a treat, but you have all convinced me that this is going to be capital FUN!!

Thank you to everyone with your descriptions, ideas, and memories. This is my first vacation in, urp, too long, and the anticipation is half the fun.

Weather-wise, I’m wondering what to expect. October is chancy in Vancouver, more often damp or rainy than dry. Is it reasonable to expect similar conditions further down the coast?

14

I live in Oregon and used to go up to the coast almost every weekend when I was a kid. We’d rent a house, stay at my grandmothers, camp… ahh, memories. It is an incredibly beautiful place, and remember–by law, there is no private ownership of beaches. You can go just about anywhere that you can get to by boat.

One of my favorite towns is Pacific City, home of the Dory boats. It’s a little place in Tillamook County, north of Lincoln City, south of Tillamook, but the beaches are almost deserted–and beautiful. Long stretches of beach, interrupted by the occasional sand dune or rock formation. My family used to rent a house there every summer–right on the beach. It’s become a little more touristy since then, but the beaches are still beautiful. If you go there, I recommend eating at the Grateful Bread bakery/restaurant–lovely place. You may have seen the local landmark, Haystack rock (not the same Haystack rock as the one on Cannon beach, incidentally–this one’s in the the middle of the sea) on postcards if you’ve ever been to this area before.

One extremely beautiful place is Cascade Head. It’s a short hike though a gorgeous forest to a beautiful little meadow, overlooking the ocean, where you can see for what seems like forever.

There are also a lot of light-houses, many of them now functioning as museums, along the coast. I won’t mention any specific ones, but I’m sure you’ll run across a few in your trip. They’re lovely, and provide an excellent view if you climb to the top of them. They can be fun to visit.

Weatherwise? Well, this is Oregon. It rains quite a lot. The coast is also often very windy, so you should bring at least a wind breaker of some description. I don’t want to be all doom and gloomy, though–it could be quite nice for a few days. :smiley:

15

I must beg to differ. The distance from Crescent City, to Fortuna (near the Avenue of the Giants) is little more than one hundred miles. A little over two hours will get you there. While there will be stands of redwoods just near the border, the Giants has some walk-in only campgrounds and plenty of reservation sites. Swimming in the Eel river is like taking a bath it is so very warm and the trees have few rivals in the entire world.

While the Carson House was thrown in for whimsy, Ferndale was not. Even though I misspelled Golden Gate Mercantile the first time around, it is still a fantastic time machine of a store. Agreed, Crater Lake is a stretch but it is such a unique geological feature that I just had to toss it into the hat for fun. Too bad there’s no room for Mount Lassen and its hot springs, now that’s Planet Star Trek.