gaffa:
Seconding FluffyBob s suggestion to “dry fit” the parts.
You can cut the pipe with a hacksaw and use couplers on two of them, but the third connection (and possibly the second) may be tricky in a T situation. You might need a Fernco coupling, a rubber sleeve with metal hose clamps. You can slide it fully over one pipe, then back over the joint.
The main problem is is why it leaks. The main reason PVC joints leak, in my experience, is that they were glued with the wrong cement. PVC “glue” isn’t actually glue, but a solvent. And you need to right one to liquefy a PVC surface. If you use ABS cement on a PVC pipe, or vise versa, you will have a joint that will stick…for a while.
Before you make any joint, look for identification on the pipe or connectors to make sure. It should say something like “Sched 40” or “PVC” or “ABS” and get the right cement or glue. And if there is an associated cleaner, make sure to get that as well and clean the joints. Oh, and it is vitally important that the glue be used on both the pipe and the connector.
The Fernco coupling is for use on low pressure lines.
Magiver:
If I remember correctly there are 2 types of female couplers. One has a divider in the center to stop the pipe from going through and one doesn’t. The final connection needs a coupler that allows the pipe to pass all the way through it so it can be slipped on over the existing pipe, thus allowing the new pipe to be brought up next to it.
They make those for sodder fittings, but I do not believe they make them for PVC.
No one has mentioned but you can use unions instead of couplers. Depending on how much movement in the pipes you have it will require from 1 to 3 unions.
Rick
November 24, 2010, 6:58am
24
I should point out that if your water is hard enough, just put a pan under it. The crap in the water will plug the leak in 6 months or so.
gaffa
November 24, 2010, 7:16am
25
My recommendation was when it was not clear if the OP was talking about supply or drain, and was assuming drainage.