Just where did I say THAT?
FTR my comments apply to all engines. The type of fuel system is immaterial. Hell the company I work for has not even sold a carbatooted car in California since 1970. Back when most companies were trying to make toilet bowls pass smog Volvo was using nothing but fuel injection.
Heat transfer into the oil has nothing to do with the fuel system.
Blown & Injected Typical? I have no idea. All I can tell you is that it was a test run by Valvoline demonstrating what happens to oil under cold temps. They used three identical K car motors. Each was equipped with a clear plastic valve cover so that oiling @ the rocker shaft could be observed. They chilled all three motors to -26F overnight.
[ul]
[li]The first engine had 10W-30 with winter additives. It started flowing within a few seconds after start up[/li][li]The second engine had 10W-30 with a different additive package. It took about 30 seconds and the oil from the rockers looked like the discharge from a sluppy machine.[/li][li]The third engine was 20W-50. After 30 minutes no oil had yet reached the rockers. They terminated the test, as all they were doing was destroying the engine.[/li][/ul]
This is one of the reasons that I start laughing when somebody tells me that they do not use the grade of oil recommended by the car maker. With no training, education, or experience they just “know” that the weight of oil called for in the owner’s manual in wrong. Damn I wish I was that good. Gus and Spot says it the best.
The oil I use in B&I is 5w-50. I do not believe that type of full synthetic was readily available when the car was made. All the other cars and SUV just get the what ever is on sale recommended 5w-30.
I’m still having trouble with the 30 minutes - sure it was not 140 weight gear oil - that is hard to believe. The 20w-50 my friends use in their race cars does not seem to be that much different from the 5w-30.
There are plenty of old wives tales. Your class room knowledge is appreciated.
I used to think so too, until I checked for myself. There’s an oil company that uses clear bottles… quakerstate, maybe? I looked at a bottle of 5W-30 and a bottle of 20W-50, both in these clear bottles. Just flipping the bottles over the difference was amazing. The 20W-50 flowed like honey, and the 5W-30 like water. It was like night and day. Note that this was room temperature. I can’t even imagine what shape the 20W-50 would be in at freezing temps.
If you think about how an engine is built it is not that had to wrap your mind around. First off don’t forget the engine is at -26F. Any oil is going to be much much thicker than it would be at room temp. Secondly, the oil pickup is at the bottom of the oil pan full of -26F (THICK) oil. Next, the oil pick up has a screen across the open end. This screen will make pulling anything real thick harder.
Try thinking of it this way
Put a straw into a glass of milk and suck. Very easy to get milk into your mouth.
Next make a thick milk shake. Same straw more suction required, but still possible.
Now stuff the same straw into some soft serve ice cream. Good luck.
Or in the manner of Cecil go buy a quart of 20W-50 and leave it outside on a cold winter night. The next morning try to pour and report back your results.
I started B&I today in 20 - some degree weather. Even with full synthetic the pressure gauge took about 15 seconds to hit 70 PSI at idle. Yuck!!!
Rick - is that 5w-50 full synthetic a bad idea?
I have read about the viscosity modifiers being bad because more of it is used in wider range oils - but I have also heard that full synthetic’s are such a different beast that the old ways do not apply???
