Life in Calgary?

In My Humble Opinion
1

I’m considering emigrating to Calgary from the UK, but have no idea how hard the global financial crisis has hit Alberta. So what’s the job market like there at the moment, specifically in marketing?

How different is Calgary to Edmonton? What’s to like? I’ve done a bit of research and like the sound of all those clear skies, the clean environment and the easy access to the Rockies, but is that what it’s *really *like? What’s the downside? Are the schools any good for 3-4 year-olds?

What’s the straight dope, Albertans?

2

I cannot speak to the schools or jobs issue, but I lived in Calgary up until recently, so perhaps I can offer some insight.

Calgary went through a great boom period that seems to be over now. This has resulted in Calgary returning to a more “normal” way of life. I’m using “normal” in scary quotes because some of what was happening in Calgary was distinctly abnormal: house prices roughly doubled in a year, fast-food workers were making $15 to $20 an hour, and so on. If you wanted to move to Calgary now, you’d be in a great position to buy a house, for example. But unlike other places that are depressed, Calgary is roughly where a city of its size and businesses should have been over the past few years.

On the upside, Calgary is only about an hour’s drive or so away from the Rockies (Edmonton is four hours). But Calgary offers a few downsides too–Calgarians love their cars, so roads are jammed at times and public transit isn’t great (and if you come from the UK with its good system of public transit in and between towns, you will be very disappointed in Calgary and Alberta). Local taxes remain contentious, since Albertans hate to pay them, so the services you may take for granted as being city-supplied simply won’t be there at times. Or they may be there, but you’ll pay extra “user fees” for them (extra fees are not taxes, after all).

This is only a start, and I’m sure other Calgary Dopers will be in to add more. I’ll be interested in seeing what they add.

3

I was born and raised in Calgary, and, as such, am a bit of a rarity here. There are lots of people here who have come from all over the country (especially Saskatchewan and the Maritimes) and from all over the world (especially Asia and India).

One of the things I think is most important for anyone considering living here to understand is that Calgary is a changing city, and it is having major growing pains. The population of the city grew too fast, and the infrastructure has not been able to keep up. Schools are crowded, there are too few hospitals, family doctors are nigh impossible to get, and the traffic is terrible. With time, these issues may get better, but for right now, there are challenges. There are also growing problems with crime, specifically gang-related.

On the upside, the area is beautiful, particularly in the summer. In the winter, the sun rises at around 8:30 and sets at about 4:30. It can be awfully gloomy, especially come February. But, in the summer, the sun rises at 5:30 and doesn’t set until 9:45. It’s wonderful (unless you’re a child who goes to bed when it’s still light out).

The mountains are spectacular, and the foothills are beautiful. Even in the winter, it can be stunning after a fresh snowfall, or when there’s hoar frost on the trees, but the summer is my absolute favourite time to be here. If you like to be outdoors, it’s a good place to live. The only thing really missing in terms of the outdoors are really good lakes for swimming, like they have in British Columbia. The hiking is outstanding, though.

In terms of fine arts and culture, Calgary is still a young city. We have Alberta Ballet, Calgary Opera and the Philharmonic Orchestra, as well as a thriving theatre scene. But we really only have one major museum, which is a lovely place, but I’d love to have more options.

I’ve run out of things to tell you, but I know there are (were?) a lot of Calgary Dopers, so hopefully more of them will come along to add to or agree/disagree with what I’ve said. I do feel compelled to let you know that the winters are too much for me, and, within the next year or so, I’m planning to move to San Diego, where my husband grew up. I intend to spend summer holidays in Calgary, but I just can’t handle the winters anymore. Of course, you will probably not have the same experience as me, but I wouldn’t feel honest if I gave you all this information and left out the part where I’m leaving.

Good luck with your decision!

4

I’m a Calgarian through and through, and I love this city. We have big skies, and if you love the outdoors there is no place better, but you have to weigh the culture of both.

As for jobs, Calgary may be easier than Edmonton to find a marketing job. The job market is more varied in Calgary than Edmonton. Edmonton is somewhat more blue collar than Calgary. Both are quite culturally diverse as well, and although there is a “red neck” heritage to both, neither city has too many issues with racism.

Schooling will be the same in both, there are good neighbourhoods, and bad in both cities.

The weather is slightly better in the winter in Calgary, and Edmonton has more clear days in the summer than Calgary.

Both are car cities (actually SUVs and Trucks), and neither are very easy to get around via transit - although Calgary’s LRT system is far better than the LRT in Edmonton - Edmonton has maybe 1/3 the number of train stops on its line. Both have congestion on the roads, both have vast suburbs which if you work downtown, it will take you an hour to commute every morning. Both have “hollow cores”, the downtown of both cities is near deserted after 5:30 pm, and over the weekends. People tend to stay in their burb, and in the big suburban mall on the weekends, although both have busy “trendy” neighbourhoods, with cafes, book stores, galleries, and a night life (17th Ave in Calgary, and Whyte Ave in Edmonton).

Calgary has a better bike pathway system, and is closer to the mountains and country. Calgary is definately more outdoorsy.

Edmonton has more of a creative culture. Edmonton has more arts festivals, and a more inclusive arts scene, although Calgary’s own arts scene is still quite vibrant, and has some amazing local arts.

Calgary has more of a culinary scene, and the sheer variety of all the international cuisines is amazing here, although I have had some amazing italian food in Edmonton.

Edmonton has a more active music scene and more international artists and big bands will come to Edmonton than to Calgary. Calgary seems to have more of a nightclub & DJ scene than Edmonton, but Calgary still has some great smaller venues.

Both have quite low crime rates, although there has been issues with gangs in both cities.

Both are very family friendly, and there are lots of activities and events for the whole family in both cities.

Honestly, I would say you need to visit both, because they both have such distinct cultural personalities that without a week in each to get to know the city, you can’t really know where you’d fit in better.