December:
<<panzermanpanzerman , I want to buy a no-load, low expense stock index fund for my new grandson. Can you recommend any? >>
Well, geez…great question. And the answer is, of course, “it depends.” Understand, I’m not a financial advisor at all.
Here are some things to consider:
Is this a one-shot, one-kill kind of account? Or is this something you plan on making a contribution to every month?
If the latter, my favorite family is the Vanguard Group. Best bets are the Vanguard 500, which tracks the S&P 500, of course, or the Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund, which tracks the Wilshire 5000.
The expense ratios are 18 basis points and 20 basis points anyway. VTSMX, of course, has more exposure to mid- and small-cap stocks, so will be somewhat more diverse.
The portfolio manager for both, Gus Sauter, head of indexing at Vanguard, is a whiz at minimizing real expenses, though. He’s historically managed to use options and sampling strategies at the margin to squeeze out a few basis points at the margin and minimize trading costs, so he’s actually historically trailed the indexes by an amount less than the expense ratios.
Try to keep at least 10,000 in the fund, though, if you can, to avoid the annual 15 dollar fee, I think it is, that Vanguard charges. There are other ways to avoid the minimum, though, if you have lots of money invested elsewhere within Vanguard.
There are other great firms, though. Fidelity offers versions of both indexes. The Fidelity Spartan Total Market fund has a somewhat higher expense ratio than Vanguard’s (25 basis points, I believe.) T. Rowe Price offers 500 index fund, as does USAA and TIAA-CREF. Each will come in at 18 points or thereabouts, and all will take great care of you.
If you’re a fan of annuities in your own personal account, I’d lean toward TIAA-CREF. If you’re a veteran, USAA will probably do you a little better. So it depends on the context, and it depends on where you have your own money. I’d pay an extra basis point or two to have everything on one account statement.
Another thing I’d look into is using a Section 529 plan, which provides powerful tax advantages if the money is used for higher education. Education IRAs can now be used for secondary and grammar school-related expenses, too, starting in 2002.
To find out more about 529s, check out http://www.savingforcollege.com.
The California plan, administered by TIAA CREF, is excellent. (You don’t have to be a Californian to participate.) Other great plans are run by Vanguard and Fidelity.
You don’t get to choose your fund, in this case, but you can pick your state. And the tax advantages of these plans will more than offset a few basis points in expenses.
The limit for Education IRA’s is going up as well, from 500 per year to $2000, and starting in 2002, I believe you can do both an Education IRA and a Section 529 at the same time. (Don’t do both before 2002, though, because the old tax law will screw you with a penalty.)
In a nutshell–and check this carefully with a pro, because I am definitely not a professional advisor, Education IRAs are nondeductible, but money can be withdrawn tax free for all educational-related expenses–tuition at private grammar schools, a new computer, books, etc. Unused money rolls over to the kid, but he gets taxed at HIS (hopefully lower) rate, not at yours.
With a 529, though, contribution limits are MUCH higher, and you remain in control of the money. The kid can’t blow it on beer and drugs when he’s 18. You can usually reclaim the money for yourself if you need to. Money grows tax free as long as its in the plan. When it’s withdrawn for college related expenses, it’s taxed at the KID’S rate, not yours.
So not only the fund you choose, but the type of account you put it in, is very important.
If it’s a one-shot investment on your part, and you aren’t making regular contributions, consider an ETF, such as Vanguard’s Total Stock Market Index ETF, which will have substantially lower expenses than even its index fund. You might put that within an Education IRA and get the best of both worlds. 
If you plan to make regular contributions, though, and dollar cost average in, than the ETF makes less sense because it costs money to do a transaction with those.
Hope this helps!