See if what you have is a Ficus (?). I forget the type of ficus, but I think that is what is pic’d in your link. May be F microcarpa? That is one of the more popular Ficus types, iirc. A great beginner’s species, and not meaning that in any demeaning way. Many folks can’t even keep these alive and healthy, so a fair way to ‘practice’ being patient. Without patience, plants usually suffer from the ‘too much love’ thing I mentioned earlier.
It is not unusual for a Ficus to not like being moved around much - changing the light-levels and/or rhythm of the daylight/temps it is accustomed to can easily lead to leaf drop, as well as overwatering. It is not a huge deal, and nothing to freak out over (if that happens shortly to yours from bringing it home). Some folks will move their plant around constantly, like from one room to another and back again the next week, etc…) and then ask “what is happening?” when leaves fall. Think constancy of environ with Ficus, IME.
They also prefer to not dry out totally (soil, per se) but soggy soil will lead to root-rot or anaerobic soil (which stinks when ‘inspected’). Higher humidity can also keep it happier in the long run - using a humidity tray can help there if you have low humidity from heaters or whatever. YMMV - lots of this info at bonsaisite, fwiw, hence me being a bit abbreviated here.
I only mentioned the pebble-gluing as it is pretty common with ‘mallsai’, as store-bonsai are popularly called. Many are grown in China in crappy clay soil and then pebbles are glued onto the top for shipping purposes. Really crappy way to do it, but folks keep buying them, so it continues (afaik).
Another thing is that Ficus are VERY easy to propagate by cuttings (cloning, per se), so you can make lots more plants whenever you want/need to prune the plant
I’ve always had Ficus cuttings begin rooting in plain ol’ water within a week or two, then into soil for further growth. Rooting hormones can help as well, but not really needed, IME.
As far as ‘houseplant’ term goes, it is a tree in a pot and if you treat it as a tree instead of something like spathyphyllum (peace lilly) or whatever, you will see MUCH better health/growth, I promise.
Watering -> let the upper portion of soil dry (inch or two usually) before watering, and if the lower part stays soggy while the surface is dusty-dry, then you should think of getting better soil into the pot. As an example, I had two near-identical cuttings of a F benjamina, and for curiosity I used typical ‘potting soil’ for one and glass marbles only (regular marbles, that is) in the other. I got much better growth from the non-soil ‘soil’ than I did with the potting soil crud, and the roots were nice and healthy as well. Of course, it takes more effort (at watering, like daily, and fert’ing ~once/week) with ‘gritty’ soil, but the extra aeration/oxygen getting into root area helped tremendously. Pretty extreme example, but should give an idea of how true ‘bonsai-style’ soil mix(es) will give much better trees than soggy potting soils. I know I am leaving out a lot about soil(s), but lots more details are at that bonsaisite I mentioned (as well as those ‘articles’). Some of the stuff may sound crazy at first, but experience shows it works great.