This is art. This is important. Civilization must go on.
Art cooking comes when you don’t follow recipes…it’s when you have a certain understanding of the dish and you wing it in the kitchen, and it comes out different (and GOOD) every time.
Now, I’ve fooled around with different types of Carne con Chile over the years…Texas versions, red and beanless…the Cincinnati stuff, which is more like a Greek meat sauce served over spaghetti with beans and onions and cheese…New Mexican green chilis with pork…whitebread variants from the midwest and from New England…even a Kansas City style with white beans and ground turkey.
After years of fiddling, this is what I did this morning, which will eventually result in Ukulele Ike’s Bowl of Red:
Took a scant pound of flank steak (an awkward amount in this house, not QUITE enough to feed four) and sliced it into tiny chunks about 1/4 to 1/2 inch square. Sauteed these in a little olive oil (no bacon in the house, otherwise I’d have used bacon fat) while seasoning with salt and pepper. Removed from the pot into a bowl.
Dropped two chopped onions into the remaining grease, and let them saute (stirring occasionally) while I prepped other things. When they were soft and beginning to brown, I threw in about a pounda grounda rounda, and crushed it as small as possible with the wooden spoon. The ground beef is meant to thicken the gravy, more than as a main event, you see.
When the ground beef started to brown, I added 3 tablespoons of ground Ancho chile, a tablespoon of oregano, a teaspoon of cumin, a teaspoon of crushed red pepper, and about two teaspoons of ground Chilpotle chile (for smoke and spice). And some more salt. Stirred it around for a while, then put in six garlic cloves and two fresh jalapeno chiles, minced. After a minute I put the browned steak back in and stirred everything around, to distribute the seasoning properly. (Shit, I hope this isn’t gonna be TOO spicy, the kids’ll kill me.)
Next I took a 15 oz. can of tomatoes and gooshed them through my fingers into the pot. Then added about three cups of beef stock. Brought it all to a boil, then lowered to a simmer, covered it, and walked away.
I’ll leave that be for a few hours, then shut off the heat completely and let it rest. When I get back home around 6, I’ll add two cups of cooked red beans (the little ones, not the big red kidneys…and shaddup, you Texans, I LIKE the frijoles IN my chili, so they absorb flavor), bring it back to temperature, then shut it off again.
Around eight, I’ll warm it up once more, and serve it in deep bowls with Saltines on the side.
Okay, so tell me what I did wrong.
“The first thing anyone learns about Cajun cooking is that no matter how you make something, it’s wrong. You might have learned your recipe from a wrinkled-up 87 year old lady back in the swamp who only spoke French, but the next Cajun you meet will check out what you’re doing and say, ‘I’m sure that’s gonna taste good, but that ain’t how you make it.’ Smile, and ask how it’s supposed to be done. Write it down. It’ll be good, but the next Cajun you meet…”
– Ed Ward