I know - at least I think I know - that certain metals when in contact with each other will cause one or the other to corrode rapidly. Which combinations are problematic? In particular, will iron and lead react?
The reason I’m asking this - just in case anyone is interested - is that I need to add some additional weight to some old window sash weights.
I really wouldn’t use mercury as a window sash weight if parts of your window are made from aluminum. That would be a really bad idea and probably wouldn’t work that well anyway. I think lead and iron are OK though.
Probably more info than you need. But the answer is, they’re probably okay, but matching the metal would be better.
This is the galvanic series of metals. The further apart two metals are on the scale, the greater the corrosion of the less noble materials. Anodes, the least noble, are at the top. Cathode, the most noble, are at the bottom. I’ve highlighted lead and iron
Sailor’s right. The first ferritic and stainless steel should be 400 series (active) and 18-8 series (active) respectively, while the later are passive.
I’ll have to come back to the graphite question, dtilque, sorry. But that’s a good question!
Graphite’s not a metal, but it’s a reasonably good conductor of electricity. The corrosion problem is related to electrons flowing from the less noble metals to the more noble ones they’re in contact with, which promotes the formation of positive ions from the less noble metal, which is part of the corrosion process. So it makes sense that graphite could promote corrosion in the metals above it on the list, but I don’t know what happens to graphite in contact with gold or platinum.
I recall from my Materials curs way-y-y-y-y back in my Freshman year, in the Paleolithic era, that you don’t even need dissimilar metals. You can get corrosion on a block of uniform metal if you restrict access to the surface. A block of steel with a rubber band wrapped around it and immersed in salt water will show a galvanic difference between th part under the rubber band and the part that isn’t, leading to corrosion where the rubber band is. Something about dissolved oxygen not having equal access o all parts.
In fact, “high energy” areas like Grain Boundaries will tend to be more reactive (which is why you can “etch” the surface of a metal to see them), s you don’t even need that rubber band.
The “immersed in salt water” part is of the essence. I own plenty of objects, including one (1) vehicle, made in Japan, made with plenty of separate parts themselves made of dissimilar metals and they are not corroding. I do take care not to immerse it in salt water though. I guess if I were in the habit of parking it underwater it might not have lasted so long though, notwithstanding the fine quality and workmanship in Japanese products.