Motorcycle Throttle Restrictor

Hey Everybody,

I am hoping to buy my first motorcycle some time soon(6-8 months), and I really want to survive the experience. I know there are good reasons to buy a small displacement motorcycle first (125cc/250cc or so) as my first bike, and I will be looking for a cruiser. However, I’m a big guy and 250cc cruisers tend to be smallish and … I don’t want to have to get a new bike just because I want a little more power a year down the road or I want to learn to ride with a passenger.

How difficult woudl it be to install some sort of an adjustable restrictor plate onto a 750cc cruiser to limit power? Is it stupid? Something that just removes the upper throttle range.

Regards,

Groman

Given your size, a 500-600cc cruiser should not get you into trouble. It’s the guys that rush out and get 750-1000+cc bikes for their first that usually meet a bitter end. You might want to look at slightly higher displacement bikes rather than going through the hassle of getting a throttle restrictor or restrictor plates. Just IMHO. I’m not that familiar w/ cruisers so I don’t know for sure whats available in that range!

My first bike was a Honda CB-650. I’m average sized, and that size is not challenging for a new rider. A 250 seems awful small to me; I wouldn’t go smaller than a 500 if you will do any highway riding to speak of.

Frankly, if you’re the kind of guy that needs a mechanical device to keep you from abusing the power, you won’t change your nature when you move up to a bigger bike or remove the limiter. Might as well learn to manage it up front.

Unless your intention is to use a limiter to prevent accidental over-revving. In which case I would say you probably don’t need to worry about it if you learn how to ride the damn thing before you go haul-assin’ around on it.

I don’t think you’re better off buying such a small engine, if you can even get them smaller then a 250 anymore. The only 250 that has any real power is the Ninja, which actually works pretty well as I’ve ridden one. The others I know about will not even make 65mph with a 215 lb guy on it.

I would say your best bet is a 600-750 cruiser, or a 500-600 sport bike. I started out on a 600 Honda that didn’t get me into any trouble at all and the throttle didn’t give me any problems with over reving. You might want to check out the Idiots Guide to Motorcycles as there is a list of bikes in the back that say what is good for a first bike.

What happened to small displacement motorcycles? Back in the 1970s, I used to see a wide variety of Honda street bikes with a large range of engine sizes.

I know of at least one case where a motorcycld manufacturer did this to limit power during a specified breaking-in period. (Ural 650s with mikuni carbs) Some fairly new Jeeps did this as well, BTW.

Motorcycle carbs are usually variable ventury slide types. Either direct acting, or CV type.

On the direct acting type, you can put a small sleeve around the throttle cable, inside the slide. Depending on the linkage, you probably only need to do this to one carb on a multi-carb bike. This is exactly what Ural did.

On a CV carb, a similar trick would work, with the sleeve around the cable between the carb-end adjuster sleeve and the bell crank.

The sleeves need to be of sheet metal so they can be installed around the cable without removing the end terminations.

Oh, and this is better than a restrictor plate downstream from the carb, as it reduces the maximum venturi size, so the carb has lots of depression “signal” to provide accurate mixture. A NASCAR style restrictor plate would leave you with too large a venturi at maximum throttle, leading to lean bogging.

In the 70’s Harly Davidson lobbied for, and was able to obtain protective import tarriffs on large displacement motorcycles.

This caused imported marques to try to promote the lower displacement bikes, as more of the selling price went to thier bottom line. They also learned to squeeze the last HP out of each CC.

With the tarriffs expired, however, you can now sell a large displacement bike for more dollars than a small displacement bike, and it only costs you incrimentally more to build, ship, store, and sell a 1000cc bike as a 350. So there is strong incentive to focus on the large displacement part of the market.

Also, with small bikes, the designers, and riders, are trying to wring the most HP from them, so the engines are more highly stressed than a big-bore machine that is just loafing along most of the time. With the smaller bike, it is more important to minimize weight, so other bits have less safety margin as well…in general I think there are more warranty issues with smaller bikes…however thier have been some notable problems with big bikes as well.

In the UK, when you pass your bike test (oh , this is complicated so I’ll just make it simple but there are exceptions of sorts to these rules) you will usually be restricted to riding a machine with 33bhp for two years, after that you can ride anything on full power.

The result is that there is a small market for 33bhp machines, and a much larger one for bikes that take to restriction well.

There are three main ways bikes are restricted in power (there are other ways that the Japanese restrict machines on speed rather than power)

One, mechanical restrictions of the throttle controls, such as cable sleeves, stops in the throttle lever restricting rotation, stops within the carbs preventing full movement of the sliders.

Two, air intake restriction, in carburettors this is done by putting in what is effectively a large washer in the carb inlet or some makers use rubber inlet port cut outs, remove them and you have full power(well - not really but I’ll explain).
This method is at present the most common, but the jets must also be changed as the mixture would run too rich, so simply removing the air restictors could lead to problems. It is not unusual for individuals to buy a full power machine, get it restricted, and obtain the legally required power output graph, and then take the restrictors out.
When you take a bike in to be restricted this way, the dealer is not allowed to give you the original jets back until he sees your licence has had two years bike time on it.

Electronic, reprogramming of the engine management system, its not all that common simply because new riders are not in the habit of buying brand new machine that have such system, these being reserved for more expensive and sophisitcate machines.

Some machines can be restricted by using more than one of these methods, for instance, the Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa has electronic limiting, along with a stop on the handlebar throttle control, though quite why one would want to own such a severly castrated machine is a good question, since you would be suffering all the depreciation and getting none of that 196 mph amusement.

Not all machines take well to restriction, even when it can be done.
Restriction tends to be most noticeable when you open up the throttle to accelarate, such as overtaking, its the torque you lose, not so much the speed.

I have not personally seen any machine above 750 that has been restricted, no surprise to me, but it seems that even sports bikes of 600cc don’t really take to it all that well, somehow the handling in corners is just not as sure footed.

The best bikes that I have seen for restriction are things like the Suzuki GSF Bandit, Hondas Nighthawk CB750, they tend mostly to be conventional road machines that don’t need to be revved hard to get access to their performance.

I don’t know about restricting cruisers, I could make a guess but in all probability I would be wrong, I would be interested in knowing how well such bikes take to it.

My guess is that cruisers don’t make all that much power anyway, not when in original condition, and that restriction probably only takes a little away from accelaration and to get access to the (slightly) higher power you have to rev into a range where the vibration is intrusive so that restriction doesn’t really make itself felt all that much, as revs are not what these bikes are about.

My Suzuki SV650 is restricted by having a washer between the carbs and the head (I think). It is 33HP but it’s a very torquey engine so the only thing it really misses out is top speed it runs out of puff around 80 but my instructor said it’ll get to 115ish). People on the SV forum say the performance isn’t that much different below 70 between restricted and non-restricted bikes.

Any bike can be restricted, I know of a Honda Fireblade that has been restricted which was quite slow, the V-twins seem to take to being restricted much better than the revvy inline 4s.

How can cops tell if the bike is restricted when they pull you over? Surely they don’t disassemble the bike or carry around a dynometer.

If you are caught doing anything over around 110mph then your bike is unlikely to be restricted, but other than that, what they do is give you a ‘producer’ which is an instruction to turn up at your local poice nick with all your documentation, which would include insurance, licence and any restriction certificates.

They can also require you to turn up at a vehicle licensing centre where they can literally strip your machine to its component parts, but there will always be just cause to do so, such as being involved in serious speeding, or racing on public highways.

The main reason an rider on an unrestricted machine would be caught is the obvious one, they were involved in a traffic incident, the rider may well be down and injured.

The law here would work along the lines of insurance - which is required by law - so that a 33bhp rider on an unrestricted machine, would not be insured, since their policy was predicated upon this.

It is fairly rare to be nicked for unrestricted riding on its own, probably this woud involve other offences, like ‘riding without due care and attention’ or speeding, or ‘dangerous driving’ and the lack of restrictors would be discovered during susequent investigations