This spring, I bought a new lawn mower that creates mulch from the cut grass, and deposits it on the lawn for fertilizer. Very good, in theory, except that the cuttings tend to be clumped. If they’re left on the lawn, the grass under the clumps doesn’t get any sun, and dies.
Obviously, I’ve learned not to mow the lawn when it’s damp, and not to wait too long between mowings. Is there anything else I can do to reduce the clumping?
I think there may be something wrong. A good mulching mower should not leave any visible clumps, unless the grass is totally soaking. In dry weather the grass should be cut so small as to be unnoticeable.
Perhaps the blade is not aligned properly, or not screwed in tightly enough. If it’s still new, you should talk to somebody where you bought it and see about a warranty repair.
Well, the three basic things are make sure the blade is sharp, don’t cut more than 1/3 the total height of the grass, and don’t mow when the grass is wet. I would expect that new a blade to still be sharp enough, and you’ve covered the latter two points. Are you still getting clumping, or are you just asking on a theoretical basis?
The blades should be sharp and the grass dry. Make sure there is no accumulated grass under the deck. It should be washed after every cutting. Buildup prevents proper mulching. Belts need to be tight to prevent the blades from slipping.
If that doesn’t work make sure you’re mowing at the right RPM’s.
(I am assuming this is a riding mower.) If so, the mower should have a specific setting for blade speed and mower speed is determined by the gear you are in. Try a lower gear while maintaining a high blade speed.
I used to mow an estate for a lady and from time to time I had this problem. It was from over watering but there’s no way I could convince her of that. I took a bungee cord and attached it to the “vent” I simply opened it whenever the grass started to clump and let the mulched grass fly.
I also used to use an electric hand held angle grinder to keep the blades extra sharp. You can get one at TSC for about $25. With this you can easily touch up the blades in a few minutes w/out even taking them off.
*Notice the back angle on the blades. If they are worn too much they won’t raise the grass properly when you mow. Everything else may be perfect but if the backs are worn (usually from sandy soil) the mower won’t cut or mulch properly.
I hope this helps, good luck.
Make the cut about 1/2 width. Takes twice as long but more muclhing time.
A SHARP blade is absolutely necessary for mulching! Dull blade bruise the grass, instead of cutting, and grass clumps as a result.
This may sound totally off-the-wall but it is worth a quick check.
Make sure the mower blade isn’t installed upside down. If it is, you will be trying to cut with the blunt end.
I think it depends a lot on the grass. Fescue, no problem. Lush zoysia, forget it.
You realize that there are folks like me out in the world who have no clue about what grass is on our lawn.
I suspect I have about fifteen varieties, all likely considered weeds by grass connoisseurs. There are great sections that have totally given in to a blanket of clover. There are a few bald patches in spots.
All in all, from the street at 25mph it doesn’t look half bad.