BTES ooohhhh…that’s one nice looking mandola. Does the tone compare? i love the celtic knot soundhole!
jjimm for the tinny issue, there are generally three main causes, although usually it’s a combination.
They are:
String type and gauge
Plectrum shape and weight
Right hand technique
Obviously, the right hand technique is by far the most important, but the slowest going as well.
I play D’addario J67 nickel strings - they are bright but not full, and a good middle ground gauge to compromise between speed and tone. When recording, I use Thomastik strings, also nickel. Unbelievable tone, but I change my strings weekly at the very least, so at $15 a set, I’m not using Thomastiks except in the studio.
For picks, I play with custom plectra that not very traditional shaped - imagine a triangle hammered dulcimer pick, and then smoosh the points until the pick is more like a slightly triangular circle. It’s a very thick polymer that’s very dense, leading to a super robust tone. If I had to guess I’d say that they are around 1.4 mm.
When I’m out of those, I play Dunlop Ultex 1.14 mm - they’re a little thinner, but they’re the closest I can find material-wise to my custom picks. FWIW, as flatpicker, I use the Dunlop Tortex 1.14 on my Guild. Totally different tone than the Ultex.
As for right hand technique, the best thing I can say is take both your fiddle tunes and scale and arp exercises, and take them to less than one third your max speed on the metronome, and play them 5 or 6 times each, concentrating not on the fingering but on the right hand action and ultimately the tone. Do this daily for ten minutes, and every week kick the metronome up 4-5 bpm. I guarantee you amazing tonal difference AND right hand control within 6-8 weeks, and probably a 40% increase in your top controlled speed.
Just my thoughts, let me know if you have any questions.
Stephen