Muzzleloading Revolvers

[Johnny_L.A]

the main difference being this one has a slightly longer barrel.

Here is Uberti’s webpage for blackpowder revolvers. (The frames version is here.)

The 1860 has an 8" barrel. The other Colt .44s are the Dragoons (7-1/2" barrel) and the Walker (9" barrel).

[Johnny_L.A]

Oh – I ordered four revolvers from Uberti USA in a single order. They gave me a 10% discount, which I thought was very nice of them. I don’t know if they always do that, but I’m sure if the order is large enough you can save some money.

My second 1851 Navy (I got it about 15 years ago) was bought from Dixie Gun Works. Dixie charges the same price as Uberti – i.e., MSRP – but there were a couple of things that bothered me. First, when the order arrived the cylinder wouldn’t turn pas a certain point. Poor machining on that gun. I returned it and it was cheerfully replaced. But I noticed that the barrel on the replacement was slightly off-centre. I decided to keep it, and it shoots well as long as you use the sights and don’t try “natural pointing”. The second thing that bugged me is that instead of the Uberti line on the barrel like my first one had, it was stamped “Dixie Gun Works”. Of course that’s just cosmetic, but I wanted the “Uberti” line.

That said, I’ve had good luck with Dixie products. They have things that most other places don’t. But for normal shooting supplies Cabela’s has better prices.

[Coriolanus]

Just got off phone with my friend, who’s holding onto one model. It’s an 1851 .44 Cal with an octagonal barrel. We thought it was an Army, but the only match I can find is this:

1851 Confederate Navy .44 Cal (at Cabela’s)

This reliable sidearm was made with a brass frame in an effort to conserve the Confederacy’s limited supplies of steel. Designated as a Navy-type pistol, it also saw heavy use among Army officers who favored the firepower of the .44 caliber. It features a blued 7-1/2" octagonal barrel; plain blued cylinder; tough, good-looking walnut grips; and brass trigger guard.

…and the one in my possesion is:

1860 Army Revolver, .44 Caliber

One of the most popular cap-and-ball pistols ever made. Not only a Civil War mainstay, it was the weapon of choice of Texas gunfighter John Wesley Hardin and other gunmen on both sides of the law.

[Coriolanus]

Okay. So all I have are the guns. (Well, only one on hand but my friend is displaying the 1851 Navy in his house and I keep the 1860 in the box, so he can hang onto it.)

Some product-oriented questions:

I figured I’d get Cap & Ball Starter Kit for $50 …

The Cap and Ball Starter Kits include everything you need to outfit yourself for black-powder pistol shooting except the powder. Kit includes: 100 round balls, nipple wrench, nipples, capper, flask, Cabela’s Lube, cleaning basket and solvent. Available in .36 or .44 caliber.

…and maybe a powder flask spout set for another $10?

Are Pistol Wonder Wads worthwhile?

Doc mentioned Pyrodex Should I just go with Black Powder for now so I can appreciate the advantages of Pyrodex?

Johnny - I found your thread .44 caliber ball, 50 grains of blackpowder where you give instructions for rolling-paper cartridges. Looks good. Thanks.

[Johnny_L.A]

To shoot a BP revolver you need balls ( ), powder, a powder flask, caps, and lubricant. You’ll also need a nipple wrench to remove the nipples for cleaning. I never used solvent when cleaning my revolvers; just hot water and dish soap. I also don’t use my capper. It’s just as easy for me to use my fingers. My capper, and the one in the kit, are in-line ones – not the paisley-shaped one that Padeye recommends. Still, the starter kit sounds good if only for the convenience of not having to order everything seperately.

Oh – about cleaning. You must clean your revolver after every shooting session. Black powder attracts moisture and you don’t want your revolver to rust! Cleaning a BP revolver is a messy business, but it’s not very hard and goes quickly. Use the hottest water you can stand. Use dish gloves so you can take hotter water. You’ll be surprised at the stuff that comes out. Imagine dissolving a charcoal briquette in water. Using lubricant when you shoot will make the fouling softer and easier to clean. I haven’t tried Crisco, but the Ox-Yoke Wonder Lube I use is great.

Do you need wads? The site I linked in the last paragraph recommends you do. Of course, they recommend the ones they manufacture. I’ve never used a wad, but Padeye does. I’ve never had any trouble shooting without a wad, but Padeye has done a lot more shooting than I have.

Powder flask spout set? It would be useful if you have only one flask and several guns. I think that if you use the spot that comes with the flask (specify .44 cal.) you’ll be all right. Since I have .31, .36 and .44 calibers, I have different spouts. I’ve marked them with a Sharpie so I can easily tell which is which. But if you have only one caliber you should probably be okay with one spout (in your case, probably 25gr.).

Speaking of measuring, you might look into a graduated powder measure. Mine looks very similar to this one, but it doesn’t have the knob on the side. I’ve seen the one I have in the Cabela’s printed catalog, but I haven’t found it online. (Still on my first cuppa joe.) You can also get the same one from Dixie Gun Works (linked earlier). Their online catalog is poor, but their printed one is very interesting. More than a catalog, it has things you need to know in it. Worth the five bucks or whatever they’re charging now. In any case, I use my powder measure to verify the amount of powder my spouts throw. You can also use it for charging your revolver.

What about Pyrodex? I dunno. Never used it. I’ve never had any trouble with Goex black powder.

Combustible cartidges. Since you were interested enough to look for them, I’ll assume others are interested as well. Here’s how I make them:

1. Put some Zig-Zag cigarette rolling papers on a piece of aluminum foil.

2. Wet them with a potassium nitrate solution. (To make the solution, dissolve “saltpeter” – potassium nitrate – in water.)

3. Allow the papers to dry.

4. Put a ball on top of a brass (or whatever) tube.

5. Apply Glue Stik to one short edge and one long edge of the paper.

6. Wrap the paper around the ball so that the ball is glued to the short edge and the long edge holds the paper together as a tube.

7. Invert the ball/paper/brass rod and pour in a measured amount of blackpowder.

8. Remove the brass tube and trim excess paper, leaving enough paper to fold over.

9. Apply a little bit of Glue Stik to the end of the tube and pinch it together.

10. Apply Glue Stik to the “flap” and fold it over.

I understand some people don’t nitrate their nitrated cigarette papers (cigarette papers are already nitrated), but I want to make sure it it fully consumed. I know some people just put the ball on a wooden rod to form the cartridge. I think it’s better to pour the powder into a metal tube than a paper one. Some people stress that you need to prick the end of the cartridge through the nipple hole to ensure ignition. I’ve never had any trouble not doing it. (One guy who pricks the ends does not nitrate his cigarette pepers.) If you soak your papers in potassium nitrate, you can shake off the excess when it dries and use it again.

Of course, blackpowder is an explosive. Neither I, nor The Straight Dope, nor the Chicago Reader, nor anyone else but you can be held responsible if you want to “roll your own” combustible cartridges. You are assumed to be a responsible adult. Act like one.

[Milton_De_La_Warre]

Re: Wonder Wads: Put them in the chanber LAST? Load powder, then ball, then the wad? Is this correct?

Yes, the BP revolvers are fun! I shot mine at a crowded outdoor range and everyone stopped to see the handgun that was louder than most rifles, and made the big flame and cloud of smoke.