My basketball pole, which was concreted in, collapsed. It left only the "stump" of the pole, which is the concreted in part, left. Is there a way to saw the stump down to the ground more or less evenly? (

In My Humble Opinion
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1

I’m trying to avoid an expensive bill by having a concrete company come and jackhammer the concrete and remove the metal “stump” of the pole.

I’d be happy to saw it down flat with the ground and dig around the area a big to put soil down, building up some ground on it.

I tried a hacksaw today, but I think the stump is itself filled with concrete and it is very hard to saw through.

Is there a good way to “saw” it down and make it more or less level with the ground?

I’d appreciate any and all insight on this.

2

I’d just rent a jackhammer. I once had a house with clothlines in the back yard made of metal pipe sunk into concrete, and that’s what I used.

3

A reciprocating saw should work. It’s how I solved a similar problem years ago. You can rent one.

4

A reciprocating saw (commonly known as a SawzAll with a pack of cheap metal cutting blades is the way to do this. Harbor Freight is a great place to get the blades.

I have literally done this exact thing after Superstorm Sandy…

The blades are pretty flexible and longish so you can cut really low and close.

If you have the storage location for a reciprocating saw, they’re pretty cheap, easily under $100 from Lowes, Harbor Freight, Amazon or the like.

5

You could also use an angle grinder to cut/remove the metal that is sticking out.

6

True, but a angle grinder harder to find cheap or borrow usually. If you any friends with tools, there is a good chance they have a reciprocating saw, I have 2 actually. A cordless and a corded.

I do have a crappy angle grinder also, but as I said, far less common.

7

Harbor Freight has these for $100 or less. would this go through the concrete as well or just the metal? If so, can I sledge hammer the concrete “stump” once I angle grind the metal around it off?

8

I have Harbour Freight and am willing to spend $100 to get one if I need a good one. Here is their selection:

9

Semi-pro saw tip, let the blades do their work, dont apply massive pressure, try and use the entire length of the blade, “sawing” it back and forth. Leveraging the saw blades causing them to fail early. Slow and steady wins. I just cut an old very tough 3 1/2" steel water pipe this way, took a half an hour, and I had easy access, ground cuts can be tricky…good luck!

(ps Edit as I saw your post) grinders are faster, but you cant get them as close to the ground IME…great to finish and smooth though. Glasses are a must, and fire extinguisher if anything flammable around. Keep the sparks from your socks!! (learned the hard way)

10

Also with angle grinders, the thin ‘cutting’ blades are for cutting (the very edge of the disc does all the work) - there are also discs for grinding which are typically much thicker and stronger. Don’t use the face of a cutting disc as a grinding surface or it may break the disc into pieces which will fly apart at speed.

11

How about $15? I needed one to remove the remnants of a flag pole, it was something I likely would have very little use in the future. I also bought a concrete cutting blade for $5, took me about 20 minutes to complete the task.

4.3 Amp, 4-1/2 in. Angle Grinder with Slide Switch (harborfreight.com)

12

I saw that and wasn’t sure if their uber-cheap one would be good enough.

13

Was the concrete cutting blade available at Harbour Freight?

14

I would add to this, as it just happened during my project, that you need to open up the cut as you go, any added pressure from the pipe leaning or compression will grab the grinder blade and shatter it. I couldnt take the pressure off the pipe, so opted for the saw, which although slower, was safer. Was able to go around it bit by bit.

15

And here’s the Project Farm Angle Grinder review. The conclusion was that the $15 Warrior was the worst, but in the end it was good enough to do most tasks and was one of his three recommended models.

My own preference would be an angle grinder over a reciprocating saw. The discs are cheaper and more durable than the blades. If any shards are sticking up after cutting they can get more grinding, or just hammered down.

16

So, are you through with playing basketball? Replace the pole.

17

If you go the angle grinder route (and you should) get the offset cutting disk not the totally flat ones. The offset has about a 1/2" dip in the middle so you can easily get flush with the concrete. Cut the metal around the post, then whack it with a hammer and the concrete will snap right off. A masonry grinder disk will pretty it up if you want.

18

Angle grinder is the best way to do it. Different wheels for cutting and grinding for metal and concrete. Be forewarned, the small 4" and 4-1/2" HF angle grinders die quickly. The large 7" grinders are better. If you can find someone with a quality grinder they won’t be worried about this job ruining the tool. But if you can’t use an angle grinder a reciprocating saw will cut the metal easily

19

I appreciate all the help. Next Saturday morning, I’ll be going to the store to buy an angle grinder.

We have a protective covering on it now for safety.

20

I was walking the dog one night before bed & suddenly I was in mid-air; seems there was about ¼-½" of an old pole sticking up in the sidewalk; low enough to not see in the dark but high enough to trip over. I went home & filled out the town’s online form for public works. Amazingly, they were out there the next morning & when I checked it out that night, it was now level with the sidewalk. I guess they realized their liability & quickly rectified it.