Ah, the wonderful problem of “noise.” This is probably the most difficult thing to diagnose in the realm of car stereos, and potentially the most frustrating and labor- and cost-intensive as well.
OK, now that I’ve scared you, it could one of several things.
Potential problem: Your new stereo is higher-powered than the old one, thus amplifying engine noise, alternator noise, random noise, to a high enough volume that it is now audible, where it wasn’t before. Pray this is not your problem if this noise really annoys you.
Solution: Long process involving things like Dynamat, stripping car to frame, and long, expensive hours as installers crawl over your car adding insulation to wires.
Potential problem: Stereo got hooked up wrong, or at least sloppily. Bad connections can cause noise.
Solution: Take it back to the installer and make the bums fix it.
Potential problem: Crappy replacement stereo.
Solution: Buy a better replacement product.
Potential problem: Factory stereos are somewhat designed for the car. There may be some insulation designed into it just because this car is the way it is.
Solution: Try a different brand of stereo.
Potential problem: Treble too high.
Solution: Duh.
If, as you rev the engine, the sound gets higher-pitched and eventually goes away (because you can’t hear it anymore), it’s noise from the engine compartment. If not, it could be the stereo. Another way to change the equation is to feed your head unit through an outboard amp, and see if that helps.
I’m sure that there are others things it could be, and others will come along to…wait a second. You’re just using this as a justification to your wife so you can buy new speakers, aren’t you? 