This is in F.Q. because I seek a specific answer to a specific question.
My Nikon D-3200 offers a variety of autofocus modes. The single-point is useful when shooting a very specific focal plane. Fair enough.
There is a choice for multiple-points in a frame. The camera- which is really a computer with a place to mount a lens- calculates the best focus when sampling those points.
Enormously useful when shooting a group photo.
While I can choose that multiple-point option, it does not in fact engage. It remains at single-point focus. This means that I sometimes have a great group of people or items and the “target” indicated in the eyepiece ( and on the menu screen on the back of the body ) may happen to fall just past a subject and onto the background.
This causes much heartache. I’ve been holding cameras of various ilk in my hands for 50 of my 62 years. I’ve carefully perused the manual several times.
Anyone here use a Nikon D-3200, or similar vintage body by Nikon, who might be able to shed light (heh heh) on this issue??
As with any automated system that tries to make decisions for you, there’s always going to be the possibility that it’s going to make a wrong decision.
The D3200 really doesn’t lend itself very well to manual focusing, especially with the stock kit lens that comes with it. I’ve modified mine by installing an aftermarket focus screen, more like those that used to come with SLRs back in the days when manual focus was the norm.
You do understand that you can press the shutter button part way, which will cause the camera to try to focus, but not take the picture until you push it the rest of the way, right? If you don’t like how it focused, then you can release it, and try again.
If it just won’t get the right focus in area mode, with a particular scene, then the best I can suggest, other than going manual, is to set it to single-point mode, put that point on a subject that you know is at the right distance, push and hold the button part way, then re-aim the camera to take in the correct scene, before pushing it the rest of the way.
On another note, you might be interested to know that contrary to what Nikon claims, you can use non-AI lenses on the D3200, albeit with exactly the same expected limitations as any non-electronic lenses; no autofocus, and no exposure metering. The basis for Nikon’s claim that you cannot is that some of the higher models have an AI tab on the camera, that can be damaged by mounding a non-AI lens, but the D3200 does not have this.
The same vulnerability was created in new models that came out in 1978 and afterward, when Nikon introduced the AI coupling, that from that time forward, most AI cameras could not safely use non-AI lenses. The older non-AI cameras remained fully compatible with the newer AI lenses, but not the other way. Any lens that has this shoe on the aperture ring is fully compatible with the older non-AI Nikon cameras. For many decades, Nikon continued to put this shoe on all of its lenses, even after it adopted the AI coupling method. The attached image shows the shoe on my 1972-vintage 50mm ƒ/1.4 engaging the pin on my 1972 Nikon F2 Photomic.
I miss my old NIkkor 50mm. It was my Dad’s it was mid-1950s. It was just gorgeous.
Almost all of my lenses now are the newer ones lacking that shoe.
That said, I am well aware that I could use older non-motorized lenses, as I think of them. My 62 year-old eyes wouldn’t have it. I would be forever missing the shot.
Bob_Blaylock Yes. I am grateful that you’ve pointed out the features of the single-point AF feature for others. I’ve been quite familiar with it- but knowledge shared is knowledge gained !! That has been how I’ve shot most images for many years: “Target” with the single point as I half-depress the shutter, frame up fast, press down. Rarely misses the moment.
But, with larger groups- and in this case, a group shot with the timer that included ME- I had to use the multi-point feature. To the comment up near the top, I’m sitting here with the body, poking at the settings so I can avoid that first pitfall of which setting will lock out the multi-point focus feature. If it’s engaged, WHY did I engage it?
Haven’t been near the body since the replies started to come in. Today and tomorrow are the times to poke at this and try to resolve.
I don’t use the crappy kit lenses !! I bought the body alone, used. Then have gathered the lenses I find useful. The least-used with most pleasurable results is a 500mm with a 2x doubler locked in. The bokeh is luscious, the optics are good but not $5,000 good. A fun lens !
It has 3 autofocus settings: AF-A, AF-S, and AF-C.
AF-S is Single focus, where it focuses and locks the focus in (best for stationary subjects).
AF-C is Continuous focus, where it continuously tracks for a focus point (best for moving subjects).
AF-A – which it defaults to - is Automatic focusing, where it automatically selects between AF-S and AF-C.
What muddies the picture a bit is that there are also different autofocus area modes:
Single-point AF uses, as you might guess, one single focus point.
Dynamic-area AF allows the focus point to automatically move around to track a moving subject.
3D-tracking AF is a bit more sophisticated, doing a better job of auto-tracking.
Auto-area AF, the default, allows the camera to auto-magically decide which mode is best suited for your subject.
From your description in the OP it sounds like you may have AF-S and either Dynamic-area, 3D, or Auto-area enabled.
I suggest that, for a stationary group photo, you activate AF-S and Single-point AF. Then, you should be able to move the focus point around manually using the multi selector on the back of the camera. Aim the single focus point on the eyeball of the person closest to the center of the group.
Also, make sure your depth of field is deep enough (higher F-stop number, try f/5.6 or f/8) to ensure that everyone is in focus.
This is what I would do. I shoot Nikons (and I’ve shot Canon), and single-point AF will serve you fine for pretty much everything. I personally shoot everything on single-point 3D tracking AF (or sometimes eye-detect, these days, with the newer models. I do it in AF-C mode, but I also use back-button focusing, and that’s beyond the scope of this thread. AF-S will work perfectly for what you’re doing.) You don’t have to overthink the focus of a group. As long as you’re around f/4.5-f/5.6, you should be fine with focusing on the central person in the middle of a group. There can be exceptions, but that will cover most situations. AF these days is simply incredible. There is no way I’d be able to do what I do with manually focusing (unless I have a still life or something not dynamic.)
The idea of greater depth of field == f. stop is ingrained in me. 44 years as a cinematographer; I can wag tongue on dept of field, depth of focus, hyperfocal distance and the much-beloved Circle of Confusion.
The problem with the specific group photos situation is that I am in the photo. I usually depress the shutter half-way to set the focus then frame up quickly. ( I think I mentioned this above… )
In this case, I cannot set the focus that way. I have to frame up and set the 10 second timer and waddle into the pre-set spot for me. Then the camera focuses to the center of the target, or wherever I tell it to look. ( There’s that field that is presented on the back screen that lets me toggle all over the place with the control wheel to pick the area where the AF targets, right? )
I like the combination that mmm has suggested. In about 10 day I will be doing this again with another group who will be sitting on stairs, hence not on the same focal plane. It’s usually a shot in even shadows rather than hot/ dappled sunlight and I’ll push to at least 800 ASA to buy that precious f5.6/ f8.
I shoot Nikon but higher models; I don’t know what I can do that you can’t because mine has more features / separate controls, etc. What I do in that scenario is to prefocus. setup your shot - framing, f-stop, etc. then depress the shutter halfway to focus where you want it to be then flip your camera (or lens) from autofocus to manual. That way when you press it fully to start the timer & waddle (your word, not mine ) over it won’t change the focus that you’ve already decided is what you want. I did that this weekend, I wanted the bottom corner in sharp focus with the middle / distance bokehy so I put the middle of the viewfinder on my desired focal point, focused, changed to manual, adjusted framing & fired away. Came out just how I envisioned.
Just remember to flip that back to autofocus after your shot so that you’re good next time you want to take a picture; do you know how many shots look great on 2" on the back of the camera & look like $#!t when you get them home on a monitor? Nope, uh-uh, that has never happened to me before! Seriously, I always try to set my setting back to ‘neutral’ whenever I’m done shooting something - autofocus, white balance, & even put it in program mode so that the first shot isn’t either all white or all black because I’m invariably shooting the opposite of what I last shot; sunrise/set vs. night / long-exposure.
That’s one reason I like and have always shot with back button focusing. You focus with the back button and trip the shutter with only the front button, so that hitting the shutter will not interfere with your focusing. That said, if you’re a front button focuser, it takes time to get used to. For me, it’s how I was taught.
A rule of thumb I’ve often read is that depth of field extends 1/3 in front of the focus point and 2/3 behind. I usually focus on a face about 1/3 into the group.
Supposedly that thumb rule isn’t the whole story. In a 1-to-1 macro shot the depth of field is 50% front and back, but at normal group photo distances the 1-to-2 ratio is pretty close.
I realized I just grabbed a random Nikon image to illustrate the multi-selector button. To avoid confusion, here is an image of a D-3200 showing the same button:
With the D3200, the back button focusing will not work with live view, according to what I read. So if you shoot that way, it won’t work.
Test it out by using the back button that says AE-L/AE-F to see if it focuses. Now point elsewhere (or defocus your lens) and make sure that pressing halfway on the shutter doesn’t cause it to focus. If all is well, then you have decoupled your focusing button from your shutter button. Now you have to learn to focus using the back button with your thumb and using your index finger to trip the shutter. When I’m doing group shots, I aim my focus point at what I want to focus on, hit the back button with my thumb, when focus is secured I let go with my thumb and take my picture with my index finger. I personally always shoot in AF-C, but this technique will work fine with AF-S or AF-A (if you have that) mode.
(Now when I’m shooting action, I use 3D autofocus, single point, select my subject and just keep my finger jammed on the back button to constantly track the subject and fire away with my index finger. If I see at some point the AF has lost the subject, I release my thumb and refocus quickly. This is typically how sports and news shooters will have their cameras set up (well, some may use more focusing points. I’m just used to the one). ETA: Oh, and I also have it set for release priority, not focus priority, so it takes the shot whether or not it thinks the subject is in focus. There’s nothing more frustrating for me than to hit the shutter and it not take a picture. But for more static subjects, it may be desirable for you not to have the camera take a picture if it doesn’t think the subject is in focus.)
) over it won’t change the focus that you’ve already decided is what you want. I did that this weekend, I wanted the bottom corner in sharp focus with the middle / distance bokehy so I put the middle of the viewfinder on my desired focal point, focused, changed to manual, adjusted framing & fired away. Came out just how I envisioned.
