Need a new toilet - suggestions?

The box with the crap ring in it reads “Flush Master”, FWIW

If you don’t caulk around the perimeter, how do you keep spilled water from running under the closet and rotting out the sub-floor? Besides, how many remaining houses have real (wooden) floors - the 'burbs have been slabs for over a generation.
As I recall, the latest houses in the SF Bay Area with raised foundations were late 50’s.

I’m betting on the seal - I removed one that was probably 80 years old - the wax had hardened, but was still intact.

The 3 I installed (all Kohler) all had a recessed groove around the perimeter, which I took as “place sealant here”.

For those confuse caulk/don’t caulk, Google to your heart’s content and see what you find

Thanks for the advice - I found a place nearby that will sell (and deliver) a Toto Drake II (plus seat) for $500 (8% or so tax included). Is that a good price?

Also, is there an easy way to determine how far the drain hole is from the wall without having to remove the toilet? The bolts (one on each side) are 12" from the wall, so I am assuming I need a 12", but is that necessarily accurate? I don’t want to buy a 12" toilet only to discover that I needed a 10".
EDIT: I see by the link in post 20 that I have a 12"

My brother the Master Plumber like Toto and Gerber (a professional line you can only buy at plumbing supply houses) and hates Kohler. He never installs single-piece toilets if he can avoid it, and always installs handicap height with an elongated bowl. The last is vitally important if you are a male - it helps keep the junk from contacting cold porcelain when sitting.

A couple of other things: If you can, install a 90 ball type shut-off instead the the traditional type with a packing nut. These never leak. And use the type of supply line that has a woven metal mesh on the outside. And seconding the need for a genuine Oaty beeswax seal, but make sure you get the type without a plastic flange.

The toilet was delivered on Thursday night; on Friday, I had the plumber come out to install it, and he put it in (and took away the old one), but the hose that connects the incoming water line to the toilet tank was too short, and the only longer ones he had were 3/8" connectors while I needed an older 1/2" one. He told me that I could buy a hose at Ace and connect it myself - then handed me the bill for $350 (which I think is a little high, considering that they only spent about an hour on it).

Anyway, one trip to the nearby (and I mean nearby - about 1/2 mile) Ace and back later, the hose is connected, and FLUSH (don’t worry; “flush” is a good thing as the old one was more “gurgle”).

If only I had remembered to buy a new toilet roll holder as well… :smack:

Almost forgot…

The seal the plumber used was a Harvey’s #1 No-Seep Toilet Bowl Wax Ring Gasket With Polyethylene Flange - is that a good thing?

unless your flange was installed wrong when the house was built it doesn’t matter. I’ve run into flanges that were too low or too high and it required a rethink. You’re installing a wax ring that gets squished to form a seal. done. the only way to screw it up would be to throw the toilet at it from 5 feet away. Ring goes on, toilet laid on top and gently rocked until the toilet touches the floor.

Another thing: ESP if you you go with a colored model - buy a spare seat or two while they are still in production.

Two colors impossible to match: