When closing, my garage door stops a third or quarter of the way down and goes back up. The light blinks ten times, which is supposed to indicate an obstruction, but there is none. The only way I can close the door all the way is by holding down the button to force-close it.
These are the things I’ve done or checked:
Checked the sensor alignment- one sensor light is a solid green, one is solid amber. I also cleaned the sensor lenses. I thought maybe the sensor temporarily goes out of alignment by the movement while the door is closing, but the sensor light stays solid green.
Tried increasing the downward force of the door, but that just makes it come back up when it gats all the way to the bottom when I force-close the door, so I had to undo the adjustment.
Oiled all the track rollers with tri-flow
I can’t think of anything else I can try. Anybody got any ideas?
It most likely is the sensor alignment, as you suspect. They could be seeing each other when the door is at the top, but as it moves down the track they get out of alignment. Sometimes the vibration of the door is enough to interrupt the signal.
Mine has started doing this, and I think I’ve worked out why. It’s not just the IR sensors that stop the door. It also senses resistance to movement, as I suspect you realize since you mentioned you were lubricating it. My design of door has some side-to-side freedom of movement on horizontal pins, and the way the steel cables at each side have been set up (poorly) it is pulling slightly to one side. This moves the door to the limit of its lateral freedom of movement on the horizontal pins, creating undue friction, which the door sometimes senses as an obstruction.
At least I’m pretty sure that’s what’s going on, I’m waiting for the weather to warm up a bit to try to adjust it.
It’s the amount of power being sent to the motor. That means that the track or drive is binding, due to wear or lack of lubrication, or the springs are worn out (probably not, because they help on the way up).
Disconnect the door from the drive, and move it by hand - see if it’s binding anywhere.
If it always happens, I’m guessing beowulf’s correct. For me, it happened very occasionally and turned out to be the lighting conditions, when intense lighting was suddenly cut by the shadow of the door.
During certain times of the year I get this issue and it’s due to sunlight overwhelming the sensor.
I also had to re-adjust the spring tension on the door and I HIGHLY recommend you call a professional if you find your door is out of adjustment. To see if the tension is good use the disconnect (typically a handle on a rope, but check your manual) and raise the door and see how difficult it is to move.
Ideally, the door should be at rest roughly half way up. This is also a good opportunity to check for binding as noted upthread.
When it was happening to me, both on the open cycle, it seemed clear that it was somehow binding. A little push when it passed that point was enough. A visit from a company called Dor-Doctor fixed it for a couple years. Then it started again. Then I sold the house. Not my problem anymore. The new owners converted the garage into a room. End of problem.
I had that issue, it turned out to be the cable pull wheel bearings were causing the door not to operate smoothly. That would trigger the door to reverse or stop, I forget. Replacing the wheels were dirt cheap, fairly fast to do and totally solved the issue. Just to add the track had also a rough spot that I tried to straighten first, but that didn’t work.
There are divergent opinions on oiling the tracks and/or rollers. My opinion is that tracks shouldn’t be lubricated at all (not even Teflon or silicone), and that if garage door roller bearings need lubrication they need replacement.
I get this, too, in the spring and fall especially. Sunlight is shining one of the sensors. If I stand outside with my shadow over the sensor with light on it, it works fine.
track binding - add oil. A lot quieter now, too - bonus.
won’t close - the receiver for light beam across the bottom is being overwhelmed by sunlight when the sun is low in the sky on a spring or fall late afternoon. Also wipe the sensor clean once in a while -and the light on the other side, so the beam is not at half strength.
also once knocked the beam out of alignment taking the lawnmower out in a tight fit.
funniest was: door almost closes, then goes back up again. Turned out a puddle had formed, then froze, and stick to the bottom of the door. SO there was this chunk of ice on the bottom of the door sticking into the garage about 6 inches - enough to break the beam. Break that off, the door closes OK.
So I tried disconnecting the door per @beowulff-- it didn’t really seem to seriously bind up anywhere-- in fact I had to hold it back to keep it from falling out of control and crashing down too hard. I blasted all the rollers with more lube and got the door to successfully close 4 times in a row. I observed all the roller wheels spinning. Though my wife said it was still wonky for her this morning when she left for work- she had to try closing it a couple times with her visor button.
I definitely don’t think it’s the sensor-- it stays solid green, even while the door is causing vibration while it’s closing. Pretty sure something is just a little out of true and causing a bindup, even though it didn’t seem that way when I disconnected the door. I guess I’ll continue to tweak it until I can get it reliable again, or break down and call a pro. Thanks for your help everybody!
The door did stay in place at spots once I stopped it, and I’d have to give it a push to get it going again. It was just at the beginning that the door felt like it was falling too fast out of control, so I stopped it myself. Don’t know what it actually would have done if I had let it go.
I’ll give it another look, but the drive track appears to be in good condition, and the garage door opener, while not new by any means, is newer than the door itself, since I replaced the ancient opener soon after we moved in-- about 14-15 years ago.