However degenerate the ordinary matter is on the surface of a neutron star, it will have at its outermost surface at least some matter able to reflect, and even absorb and emit normal light.
During the lifetime of a neutron star matter will accrete to it’s surface, so even as it “eats” normal matter, converting it to neutronium, some film of degenerate normal matter, and perhaps even an atmosphere of denser elements in plasma form will remain. Such an atmosphere would of course be measured in millimeters from its surface, in all likelihood. Still, with a surface, and potential atmosphere of normal matter, what you would see is a dimly glowing ball.
But what of the fact that its light is red shifted from its escape trajectory? Gravity on the surface of a medium sized neutron star must be measured in billions of G. Ordinary light emitted at visual frequencies upwards faces a huge gravity well, although it must escape eventually. But what does it look like, when it gets out to more flat space? Obviously too dim to be seen at interstellar distances, but what about at Mars orbit distances?
The same thing about infalling light, in reverse. Your standard profile of starlight gets accelerated, that is, blue shifted the entire way in, having an excitation potential of hard gamma, and X rays by the time it hits the matter on the surface. Then think about the magnetic fields whipping by at many per second rates, each swing with the magnetic power of a whole star.
Probably quite a light show, and not all of it gets whipped out through the magnetic the poles, and surely some must be ordinary light, or higher energy stuff that gravity heterodynes into visible ranges. Yeah, probably scenic wonders for traveling spacemen, if their shields can take it.
Book me a flight! I’m game in as far as Mars orbit, if the engineering department thinks the old girl will handle it. Engage!
Tris
“In my opinion, there’s nothing in this world, Beats a '52 Vincent, and a red headed girl.” ~ Richard Thompson ~