The mechanic says that it’s a 12-volt battery, and all 12 will need to be overhauled at a cost of $16 per.
So here’s my question:
Does it seem to you that today’s “non-serviceable” batteries seem not to last as long as the older serviceable (ie, you can add water when it gets low)?
In the past 10 years, I don’t think I’ve had a single battery that lasted over 2 years, with 18 months being about average (and in one extreme case, EIGHT months!).
Mjollnir said “The mechanic says that it’s a 12-volt battery, and all 12 will need to be overhauled at a cost of $16 per.”
That’s a typo right? $192 for a battery seems a little steep for a car battery. If that’s really what the mechanic wants to charge you, have him killed (because he is an affront to the human race) - at the very least give him a one finger salute - and go to Sears where you can get one installed for $50 to $90 or so depending on capacity.
As far as the life of maintenance free batteries compared to the cost of water-add batteries goes, back when they first came out studies showed that they lasted longer on the average because the required water-adds often were not made to standard batteries.
I usually get at least 4 years out of a battery. Instead of just plunking in a new one, it sounds like you need a thorough charging system check; you might have something out of kilter there that’s destroying batteries for you. Also, I recommend buying the best battery you can; they generally come with better warranties, and tend to last longer. One technology that is more prevalent now is the gel battery; it’s sealed, can be mounted in any position, puts out more power pound for pound, and is a lot more resistant to vibration damage.
But as to the rest of your post - I’ve found that with batteries, there is a large difference in quality between the brands and models, and that if you get a good brand then the higher priced ones do pay back.
I always buy the largest, biggest, “Conan the Electrocutor” DieHard-brand battery I can find (typ. about $60-70), and they typically last at least 5 years. I had one DieHard, a mid-range model, last an incredible 9 years, and it still started every day when it was sold with the car.
Batteries supplied with new cars typically suck, and often seem to die within 18 months.
I believe it is true that the non-serviceale batteries are by definition not supposed to last as long as the serviceable kind. But they can still last pretty long if you get a good one. If you are consistantly eating batteries perhaps the problem is with the alternator, voltage regulator, or some other current drain. Also, don’t ever underestimate just how much a little amount of battery terminal corrosion can reduce your delivered power.
Please tell me your mechanic didn’t tell you that, or, your from some country that uses funkyass batteries.
If your in the U.S. go to an autoparts store and give them your old battery and they will give you what you need.
Just the other day I replaced MY battery. total cost, $49.95 then $8 credit on THAT for exchanging the old one at autozone. 2 year unconditional warrenty up to 7 years pro-rated warrenty.
The old battery was 4 years old… and my thinking was that it was WAY too soon for that battery to shoot craps.
If what you say is true, someone’s trying to rip you off.
I’ll second this. I’ve never had a problem in an automobile electrical system that didn’t take the battery out too, sooner or later. If you really are buying quality batteries and they are crapping out too soon, it might be worth a look. OTOH, a new battery every couple of years is still cheaper than most car repairs.
Yeah, that was just some levity to set up the real question.
However, I had a friend who owned a Cessna 152 (two-seater), and he said that an airplane mechanic told him that he had used that line on gullible airplane owners to get a little extra spending money.
Don’t know if it was true, but I believe the part about the mechanic telling my friend that. Whether the mechanic was on the level about actually having done it, though, I’m not so sure.
all 12 what?!?! volts? there are only 6 cells in a 12 volt car battery. so at MOST he’d only have to fix 6. and guess what. you can do it yourself if it’s not a selfcontained battery. all it needs would be some deionized water and some acid that you should be able to buy at the local store. plus most, if not all, batteries come with some sort of warenty so if it dies take it back and get at least SOME money back.
I do agree with the checking out of the electrical system. there are only three parts, the altinator, a voltage regulator, and the starter selinoid (I think). The voltage regulator and starter selinoid are cheap if they are bad, the alt can run from 40-200 depending on make. plus some alts are a pain to get too while others, like my 86 mustang, are a breeze.
I think that the Auto Zone stores give out booklets on how to check these types of things. or one of them does anyway.
you are being taken though, if it’s that bad then get a new one. also check all of the connections to make sure they are not loose and clean any terminals that have any crap on them.
I know this isn’t what you asked but here’s my $0.02 and a plug. Here in Texas, batteries don’t last very long at all. I’ve always expected them to die with a couple of years. And, yes, I do check water levels. I did finally come up with a solution a few years ago, though. Wal-Mart, and I’m sure plenty of other stores, has these cheap 2 year warranty batteries. A lot of people pass them over because they want the “top of the line” stuff. Anyway, you only have to buy one. If it dies before the 2 years is up, which they always do, just take it in. They’ll give you a new one and the warranty starts over. I’m on battery 3 right now on my current car.
You’re being taken. I do it this way and the worst that happens is I have to jump-start my car every 16-20 months. No biggie. Good luck anyway.