New Vehicle 'Break-In' Procedure

So I guess things have changed a bit since I last bought a new vehicle (1992). Back then I was told that in order for the vehicle to be properly ‘broken-in’, I should not drive above 50mph for the first x miles, etc.

I picked up my new car this morning ('04 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 6 cyl.) and was told exactly the opposite by 2 different people at the dealership: “Break-in for this vehicle is to beat the hell out of it. Don’t baby it. Drive it as fast as you can without getting caught. Vary your speed greatly every 3 to 4 minutes.”

So, is this accurate? And if so, how have things changed so dramatically since 1992?

I believe varying the speed is to ensure that you don’t leave the car in one gear all the time, but rather give all the gears a chance to engage and get broken in properly.

When I bought my car in 1997 a coworker insisted I bring the car in for an oil change after a thousand miles because he was worried that there would be shavings from the new parts wearing off, but I waited until 3000 and the car is working fine.

I’m sorry I must be so vague about this, since I cannot now find the citation.

I recall reading about a particular problem with early Mazda Miatas. If they were not broken in by varied driving, a particular part on the vehicle would wear unevenly, and it could cause the throttle to want to revert to a particular position.

The solution was just as you described above: vary your speed and don’t drive continous, predictable routes for awhile.

Sorry, I wish I could elaborate further, but that’s all I can recall.

Hmm, lots of mixed thoughts about this sort of thing. When I got my new 2003 Matrix I got an “info sheet” from the dealer. A lot of it was wrong (use 87 octane gas…the engine manual specifies 91!) and it was the “old fashion” way of breaking in the car…nothing over 90 km/h, drive slowly, vary speed etc.

Some of the newer thoughts include what you got told. Beat it up.

I did of course change oil rather quickly (why not, regular oil is cheap and you shouldn’t switch to synthetic until 16K Miles - this is from the oil change place I used to work at, I figure it’s correct since they didn’t have any reason NOT to sell the expensive (ie overpriced) synethic oils.

I would get your first 2 oil changes done at 1000 and 2500 miles. After that follow the manual (or do monthly oil checks yourself and see if the oil is dirty).

I doubt either way is “bad”. Driving the engine hard isn’t going to snap anything that wouldn’t have snapped after a few thousand miles! I peeled out of the dealership myself (but of course I didn’t know how to drive a stick so I jammed the gas and dropped the clutch! :smiley: ).

The manual for my 2002 Hyundai Elantra says, in large block capitals:

-Do not exceed 4000rpm
-Vary speed where possible
-Do not allow to idle for extended periods

My advice is not to drive the thing until GaryT comes along to post. He knows all this stuff.

This subject was discussed on Car Talk within the last few weeks, and they believe as does your dealer, that hard running is better during break-in. IIRC, they claimed that doing so accomplished better seating of piston rings, thereby promoting improved compression and reduced blow-by. I’ve checked their site, but answers to past questions aren’t archived, so you’ll just have to take my word for it. :smiley:

Doesn’t the owner’s manual have something to say about this? Do what it says, and ignore everyone else’s advice.

This subject, along with the “proper” frequency of oil changes, and the organic/synthetic oil debate, are among the most frequently discussed topics on several automotive forums I frequent. IMO, the reason they are discussed so much is that there is little or no conclusive evidence in favor of, or definitively refuting, any of the various positions. The main reason that people debate them so strenuously (also IMO), is that many of us learned these “facts” from our fathers when we were children, and most people accept such teachings as Gospel for the rest of their lives. (I do not exempt myself from such tendencies, but my father knows nothing about cars and has never owned a brand new one, so I’ve had to make my own way in this field.)

The fact is that (IMO) it would be nearly impossible to definitively link any specific mechanical failure to any specific behavior (or lack thereof) in the first few months of ownership.

That said, here are some things I’ve learned in reading extensively on the subject. I believe these to be true, but YMMV.

The need for break-in is far less than it used to be. Engines these days are far better made, and are machined to far better tolerances (with computers, fer Chrissakes!), than they were 20+ years ago. So the chance of “shavings” working loose and doing damage is far less than when your father got his first new car back in the 1960s.

If anyone tells you about “break-in” oil (specially formulated oil put in by the manufacturer that should be left in until the specified first oil change), they are working with information that is at least 30 years old. Automakers in the 21st century are not using break-in oil.

There is no basis in fact for the claim that you shouldn’t put synthetic oil in the engine before x miles. Put it in before you drive off the lot, if you want.

*Consumer Reports *did a very comprehensive test of oil change intervals using NYC taxis. The results: you don’t need to change your oil every 3,000 miles, unless you drive in very dusty conditions or other special circumstances that are more extreme than a NYC taxi!!! Every 5,000-6,000 miles is just fine.

As for the break-in period, it probably doesn’t make a hell of a lot of difference what you do, but if you do what the manufacturer recommends in the manual, at least they can’t claim later you bear some responsibility. (Not that I think that’s very likely.)

Also, I disagree with the “beat it hard” camp. Sounds like macho BS to me.

It seems there are many knowledgable people who disagree on this subject. One thing I think everyone can agree on is not to push the engine until it it is fully warmed up.

There is an article that claims by breaking in an engine hard it will make more power than an engine that was broken in easy.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Just do what the manual says. The manual WILL say something about breaking the car in. On my Corolla it was not driving over 120km and varying speed regularly for the first 2000 kms

Just to add more fuel to the fire… I bought a new 2003 Ford Escape about a year ago. The dealer told me to drive many different speeds, but didn’t give any upper or lower limits. The reasoning was that the electronics in the automatic transmission need to “learn” how to shift correctly. IMHO, if it’s gonna break because of some break-in period abuse, it’s a peice of crap to start with. Besides, it’s better that it happen early while it’s still under warranty.

Thanks for all of the replies. I haven’t yet had a moment to sit and read what the manual says about this but will do so ASAP. As for the first oil change, the dealer is recommending 3750 miles, but I’m going to check with my (well-trusted) mechanic to see what he suggests.

Yeah, I was also wondering if this might be part of the argument for “beating the hell out of it”. If there’s any weak point(s), it will let go while the car is still well under warranty and possibly avoid any kind of related damage that may occur by a slower deterioration.

Thanks again!

Porsche: drive it any way you like it from when you first get it.

Alot of the other car mfgrs just use general guidelines, not based on any real science. See, some older engines needed to have the piston rings seat properly and other stuff to prevent oil burning, plug fouling, etc. but…

…today’s computer controlled engines and precision mfg’ing require less break in.

Some cars should be driven naturally, without concern for special limits. Cars with automatic trannies that learn driving habits should be driven naturally.

Upper limits are usually for belt and hose consideration. Until these rubber parts are cycled through heat as few times, they might not be as flexible or forgiving. More rule of thumb than science though.

Upper limits are also for brakes…because until they seat properly, you don’t have max stopping power. Tires too.

Man, I’m happy if I get 10 years out of car…

I have yet to hear the argument that convinces me to follow a maintenance schedule different than the manual’s. These people designed and built the car, if they don’t know the acceptable timing of maintenance, nobody does.

One thing I learned from GaryT on this subject is to read the ‘severe’ driving condition description carefully, it applies to more people than you might think.

Break in procedure for the 2004 Prius (which I have on order)

During the 1st 600 miles:
Avoid full-thottle accelleration when starting or driving
Avoid racing the hybrid engine
Try to avoid hard stops in the first 200 miles
Brian
IIRC oil changes are recommended every 5,000 miles

Well, I’m a nitpicky bastard so I’ll point out that there is at least one well documented case of a modern car coming with break-in oil. The Honda S2000 .

Without revealing my own personal brand of break-in religion here, this website is where most of the ‘run it hard’ camp gets their information.

commasense, covered it in his excellent post but I will add my comments.

  1. Follow the recommendations in your owners manual… NOT what the local dealer tells you. The dealer doesn’t warranty the vehicle but it’s money in his pocket for unnecessary maintenance work.

I have broke in about 15 new vehicles over the years, I always followed the owners manual. The last 10 or 12 years the new vehicles require NO special is breakin… just drive em as you normally would. They also recommended oil changes at 5000 miles. Changing at less mileage and using synthetic oil or any additive is a waste of your money.

BTW, my last new car…from the dealer and I started a 1200 mile trip at interstate speeds of 70 to 75 MPH.

While I am in the drive as you normally would camp for the most part, don’t forget a couple of things:
First off the clearances in the engine, transmission, and differental are the tightest they will ever be.
Secondly the engine rings are not fully seated, ditto for the valves, and the adaptations for the engine management, and transmission management are not complete.
Lastly there are other things besides the engine that need time to adjust. Tires in particular take a few hundred miles for the belts, and plies to settle in and get to a final running position. New tires build up extra heat until everything settles in. Buying new tires then setting out on a 200 mile jaunt in the heat of the summer @ 80 mph can cause a spectacular tire failure.

With all that said, I tend to drive just a bit more conservatively during the first 1,00 miles or so. I try to limit my full throttle accelerations and no drag racing. I also try to vary my speed. After 1,000 miles or so I revert back to my usual driving habits. Somewhere between 8-10,000 miles I usually notice a gas mileage increase of about 1 mpg. This is when I consider the engine “broken in” Excess friction has been removed and the engine is fully ready to rock.

As a side note, on the engines in our cars, the best performing ones are the engines that do get driven the hardest. Salesmen that races up freeway on ramps with wide-open throttles usually have better idling, and better running engines than the “little old ladies” (Of both sexes) that are afraid they might hurt the car if they were to use full throttle.

By all means read the manual. The guys that built the car know it best.

While I realize you may see your MPG go up at the 10K point, most new cars (especially GM V8s) are in fact “breaking in” until just shy of 40,000 miles, if you go by wear metal levels in the oil.
In particular, copper levels on GM V8s are seriously elevated until 35,000-40,000 miles.
Just food for thought.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi? <---- The used oil analysis boards there should have some examples if you poke around.