I can fix damn near anything that fits under a roof. But the washing machine is the one invention that has always stymied my old man, and now me. So much so that the wisdom in the family became, "If the dryer breaks down, fix it. If the washer breaks down, don’t even touch a screwdriver, just get another washing machine. That was when I was a tot. Now the things have an electronic brain (speed control) in addition to a mechanical timer on the control knob…Enough.
I have a WSXH208A1WW GE Front Loader.
Symptom: not cycling. It fills with water, and the pump empties the drum. The motor can turn the drum with no noise. But unless you manually turn the dial, it will not move on its own…unless you have about 9 hours for it to accidentally remember that it’s a washing machine and supposed to be sort of automatic.
I have replaced the timer ($100 or so) and incurred much loss of face when suitable results were not forthcoming. The only other thing I can think of is the speed control (computer) but that’s $370. If I buy that I am approaching the cost of a brand new unit. The machine appears to have no clutch, just a belt-driven drum controlled by a motor that hooks directly into the :: ulp :: speed control board.
Before I blow my hard earned dough on this piece, does anyone know if this gizmo causes this kind of problem? or is it a $3 valve that is simply confusing the brain?
My experience with washing machines is that by the time one component breaks, it is not worth it to fix it. For instance, if the seal is leaking below the drum, there are probably other seals going out, or maybe the motor needs to be replaced.
As you have realized, washing machine parts have a huge profit margin, which prompts most people to try a repair, then buy a new machine.
Your machine seems like a newer one, but if you do buy a new one, consider one of the lower end ones - they don’t have all the fancy-schmancy computer controls, but they will clean your laundry. And we all know less parts and components usually means less chance of failure. I just replaced our machine a few months ago, and bought the most basic one that still had good ratings with Consumer Reports. It doesn’t have a computer in it, but it cleans my clothes just fine.
Never have messed with the newest computerized units, but imagine much of the troubleshooting still valid.
You’ve replaced the timer, but was the old timer getting appropriate voltage to make it advance?
So the tub fills-is the fill level appropriate for the level selected? What does it do when the fill cycle ends?
Seriously-they’re much simpler than you would imagine-a timer, a couple of selectors, and a few limit switches to tell the inlet water solenoids and motor what to do when.
You doubting what the old man said huh? mm-hmm…live and learn goddamned washing machines are a pain in the ass. If you’ve got to buy two parts or more then you’re usually better off just buying a whole new machine.
I suppose you’ve cleaned it thoroughly. The drain is free and clear…it fills up fast…it gets both hot and cold water…you put a new timer (the right one?) of course. No loose connections…no bad wires (burnt, cracked, direct shorts) any fuses? It definitely sounds timer related and a new panel is usually expensive. Can you pull it to check the circuitry on the boards. See any loose solder? cracks in the board itself(not likely) probably just got hot and melted the silicone when the timer went out (if the timer went out) an overloaded drum can prevent the machine from cycling and the board’ll heat up. Maybe you’ll get lucky and be able to solder it back. If that’s what happened. Sometimes if you’ll just clean the board real good with some rubbing alcohol it’ll help.
Last one I bought was about $85 + another $25 on some other crap I needed. But for about a hundred bucks and a couple of hours. I wouldn’t spend anymore though. I skipped the timer. It worked fine.