So I’m thinking about painting an office ceiling. It’s disgustingly yellow from smoke. No one’s smoke in it for years, by my low ball guess is that about 200,000 cigarettes have been smoke in here over the past 20 years. Can anyone recommend something to either clean the stains off or ‘roughen it’ so it will take the paint better. (hmm, now that I’ve said that ‘out loud’ I wonder if a quick once over with some sandpaper will do the job.) Any ideas? It feels like a latex paint, but all the smoke on the ceiling has given it an almost glossy feel. I tried scrubbing it with water and a very good all purpose cleaner, but it seems like that would take a week, and besides I got tired very fast of the water running down my arm. I suppose I could just paint over it and see what happens (maybe just use primer). I’m not looking for a really nice looking paint job. Just want to make it white again.
You’re right-the deposits from the smoke are greasy and glossy. To get that stuff off and properly prepare the ceiling for a repaint, use TSP. Trisodiumphosphate is a granular product available at grocery and other stores such as K Mart. Mix with water, scrub it on, and watch the crud come off. It will also degloss paint, affording better ‘tooth’ for the new finish. Be sure to rinse the surface with clear water and allow to dry before refinishing.
Warnings: It attacks grease, including oils in your skin. Use proper protection for your flesh and eyes. Do not allow contact with aluminum-they don’t play well together.
We used sugar soap (which may actually be that same thing that danceswithcats is talking about, for all I know; this removes the greasiness and roughens the surface nicely, but doesn’t actually remove all of the staining. I’ve heard that tobacco stains can diffuse through a new paint surface over time, causing it to yellow prematurely - to avoid this we slapped on a coat of ‘stain sealer paint’, which is apparently formulated specifically for the purpose.
Try a product called Killz (I think I spelt that right; there’s a final “z” definitely).
It’ll cover up virtually anything! Then just paint over it.
Okay, I decided to not be lazy. It’s Kilz.
White pigmented shellac will cover up the stains and the odors very well. It sticks to things better than other primers and will take any topcoat. I think the brand name is Zinser or Zinzer, and it will be called ‘white pigmented shellac’. It is excellent.
My ceilings are textured, porous tile and pretty much impossible to clean. I smoke and I’ve used Kilz on them and it works great.
What he said, with one “L”
The product bsane speaks of is Bullseye 123 made by Zinsser Co., and is available in all good paint supply stores. The advantage it has over Kilz, is faster drying; being shellac, it dries and is ready for topcoat in 15 minutes.
The only problem I have with the ‘paint over it’ approach is that of proper bonding. If I don’t prep the surface properly, I’m hanging my hat on how well the new coat sticks to the crud, and how well the crud sticks to whatever is beneath that. As a contractor, if I have to come back and redo a job, I’ve pissed of the customer, and likely thrown my profit out the window.
Doing it right the first time is always cheaper, IMHO.
No clue what ‘sugarsoap’ is, Mangetout, but I’d be intrigued to read if you could provide a link.
I have been using sugar soap for cleaning prior to decorating for 35 years, mainly in pubs and cafes where there is a heavy accumulation of smoking byproducts.
Just completed a restaurant kitchen that was, as you would expect, greasy and very yellow-stained.
I use Mangers Sugar Soap, but can’t find a link to other than price lists for this, which is made/supplied by KALON decorating products in the UK.
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/b/BARTSS/ is a similar product - interchangable with Mangers.
After cleaning with sugar soap I usually apply 2 coats of Acrylic Eggshell. Goes on like emulsion (Latex) should have a 16 hour recoat period but 3 hours usually does it. it IS a restaurant and rapid turnaround and low taint are imperetives.
Kilz is a pigmented shellac and most “brands” of it now come with a choice of oil or “latex” base that dries faster. These will cover the stuff so it won’t come through but may not solve the problem of it adhering so well. The oil base, despite taking longer to dry would be better because it will “mix” some with the oil in the stain. TSP has been outlawed in most places for quite a while. It is a “phosphate” and a no no for our streams and rivers! I do miss it though. Actually, with care, a dilute bleach, water and plain cleaning soap mixture (no heavy duties that contian amonia stuff) dish soap is fine, works best to clean it first. That will alos “soften” the underlayer so the kilz or zinzer will stick well. Then top it off with your paint sit back and light a smoke and start the process all over!