So, my folks (my Dad and step-mom) are going to Panama in a few days, for two weeks. They’re rather experienced travelers, having been to Ecuador/Galápagos, Costa Rica, and Baja (Mexico) over the last ten-fifteen years or so. They really like visiting these sorts of wonderful natural places, and often try to visit/experience the less “tourist-y” areas. My step-mom is a diehard birder, and has a particular thing for hummingbirds (she’s absolutely loved them since she was a kid), so that explains some of the locations they’ve visited over the years. Age-wise, they’re in the 60-70 range, healthy and mobile. Travel-savvy. Not wealthy; just saved up for these kinds of later-life adventures. I think it’s all pretty cool, myself. Hope I can follow a few years down the road.
So they plan to fly into David (not sure of the airport name there), and have a fairly loose schedule, and plenty of time. They’re taking a full transit tour of the canal (I think Panama is building some sort of expansion along the canal currently, but I’m not sure about this.) Dad wanted to see part of the Darien Gap, but apparently there are travel advisories about the area due to narcos or some such, so I’m reasonably certain that’s off the agenda. They tried to get into a place called Burbayar lodge (I think that’s what it’s called), but it was booked full. I think it’s near Bayano Lake. They’ll be staying in Boquete (sp?) for a little while also, and just basically enjoying the sights and sounds (and weather - they’re from upper NY state). I think there’s some kind of coffee festival around the time they’re there as well (they both love coffee).
So… has anyone from the Doper family visited Panama recently? Have any suggestions? Birding suggestions, for those who are into such things? Off-the-beaten path curiosities? (Dad really enjoys the little oddities of other cultures/countries - he tries very hard to skip most of the tourist trap stuff).
Thanks for any thoughts, and Happy New Year to all!
I had considered Colibri, John Mace, but didn’t think it appropriate to just randomly PM someone I’ve never interacted with (via PM, anyway). We never even used to have PM available here on the SDMB, and I wasn’t sure what the general etiquette is currently, or who has PM turned on. Hence the thread.
Colibri, if you read this, would you mind my PM-ing you with a few questions? Also, any input you might have, I’d love to hear. My folks are quite self-sufficient, and have a general travel plan, but I was hoping to hear about some things to do/areas to visit that might not be in the average travel guide, particularly as they apply to birding and/or hummingbirds, from you or anyone else with experience traveling in Panama.
I assume they are actually flying into Panama City and then taking a local flight to David. I see you mention below that they are going up to Boquete from there. There’s lots of great birding in the vicinity.
A Canal transit is highly recommended. Panama has a major expansion of the Canal and construction of a third set of locks underway, scheduled to open in 2015.
There are restrictions, but most of the Darien is safe enough. (I’ve been there 30 times.) Trips can be arranged via some of the local tour companies. There are a few Ok hotels or lodges along the road to Darien, but getting into the Gap itself involves boat travel and (at best) very rustic accommodations. This may not be the best option if they have limited time or don’t want to rough it.
Yeah, it’s popular and there aren’t many rooms. However, a day trip to the area can be arranged with local tour companies.
The weather is always springlike in the highlands, and the coffee is great.
They may want to get my “Bird-finding Guide to Panama.” If they are birders, they most likely already have my “Birds of Panama: A Field Guide.”
Thanks for responding, Colibri! Your advice is appreciated. They do have guides - not sure which ones, though. I know they’ll probably seek out any hummingbird areas they can, whenever possible.
You likely get these types of questions a lot; my apologies if my inquiries are bothersome. I was just looking for some folks who may have been in the country recently and had a few pointers. Not a big deal - occasionally, people find an unusual area they explored while traveling, or some odd little corner of a country that turns out to be a real gem.
Thank you again for your input, and a very Happy New Year to you and your family!
Among my personal interests is the history of the Canal itself, and I have been through it.
If you are interested in some sources for them to read, I can make some suggestions. Here are two starters:
For an overall readable history (much more readable than McCullough’s book), try Parker’s Panama Fever. For a contemporary account while the Canal was being built, I recommend the National Geographic article from Feb 1911, by George Washington Goethals, who was the third Chief Engineer. He doesn’t have much to say about his two predecessors (probably because of an assortment of interesting political and personal conflicts), but it gives a nice flavor about what it was like at a practical level. You can get this as a reprint monograph, or if you have access to past Nat Geos, get it that way. This account is actually from a speech he gave to the Nat Geo Society several years before the Canal officially opened.
My impression is that most people just want to say, “that’s cool,” and leave it at that. But if your folks are the type to dig deeper, let me know, esp if they have any specific questions.
Note that a transit will not let you see too much of the new locks, although you can see where they are being built.
Colibri will know better than I, but I think Colon is a waste of time. Total pit, actually. The Panama railway between Colon and Panama is fun if you are into the history of it (this is not the exact 1855 route, since Lake Gatun precipitated some re-routing), but if you aren’t into the history of the canal, it’s pretty much just a railroad ride along a lake and through some jungle.
The airport in David Panama is called the David airport. Nothing fancy here.
The Boquete Coffee and Flower show is Jan 10 - 20. We are expecting around 100,000 people in that period. The hills will be covered with people here to camp out. It should be a great time. Where are they staying exactly? Most hotels in both Boquete (you spelled it right) and David are sold out for that time frame.
If they can get to Sitio Barriles (look it up on Wikipedia which surprisingly has good information) the tour with the owner Edna, who speaks English, is off the beaten path and amazing. Bring a bottle to drink the fresh water she has coming down her property. She has hot springs and also volcanic rocks for healing.
If they are renting a car have them stop and meet artist Jose Cruz. If you want his website let me know. His shop is on the way down from Sitio Barriles so it would be a good day trip.
If your step-mom likes birds this is the country. Panama and this area have some incredible number of bird species. We have tons of hummingbirds in our own yard here. Panamanians have a lot of flowers in their yards, they will see when they come and the birds are amazing. There is a bird watching group that leaves out of Finca Lerida. They are also a resort in the hills around Boquete but not the best tour for coffee plantations. I would suggest they do the Cafe Ruiz tour.
Does your dad smoke cigars? Is he interested in seeing them made? Let me know. There is a very off the beaten path tour of the Panama Tabacco factory outside of David. It’s not easy to find and only if they have a car would I suggest they try to find it. Let me know.
If they head to any of the outdoor adventure companies in town, including Habla Ya they will drive them and then walk them to the Caldera Hot Springs. You have to have a guide or you could get lost. It’s not an easy hike into the woods but its beautiful once there and worth the hike.
If you want more info on this area let me know. Are they heading to Bocas del Toro by any chance? There is a great new Botanical Garden on the main island that your step-mom would most likely love. I just did the tour and they also offer a two hour bird watching tour. Just awesome. The owner is from England. Really nice woman named Lin. And that area is the cocoa plantation area of Panama. I can give you more informaton if they are interested.
Actually, it’s formal name is the Enrique Malek International Airport, though it’s rarely called that. It’s recently undergone a major expansion and renovation.
Be aware, however, that most of the major archaeological pieces found at Barriles have been removed and are in the Museo Archeologico Reina Torres Arauz in Panama City. While Edna gives an interesting tour, the information is not necessarily scientifically accurate. Here’s a video.
The group of mainly expatriate birders who live in Boquete are called (unsurprisingly) the Boquete Birders. Some of them maintain hummingbird feeders.
I just spend 5 days in the Darien and it was an amazing experience (as part of 10 days in Panama). Flew into Sambu, then took a boat a couple hours to a village called La Chunga and stayed with a Embera family there. Felt perfectly safe, just needed to contact a local guide and set up permission to fly in before going.
The Embera on the Sambu are one of the more traditional groups, and most of the river is pretty safe. (I have heard rumors of FARC at the headwaters in the past, but I doubt they are still there.) The FARC are reputed to be mainly on the upper Tuira and Jaque Rivers, but have kept a pretty low profile in recent years.
Thanks for all the added info, people! The folks head out tomorrow, and are very much looking forward to the trip.
Florence, they do have a room booked already in Boquete, so no problem there.They’re staying in Panama City for a few days when they first arrive, and plan to take a couple of day trips before flying into David. Their canal transit is later in the trip. Also, they planned to try hiking part of Sendero Los Quetzales, if it’s open and accessible. Seems to be some differences of opinion on accessibility, though.
ed anger - (sorry, ed, but I just can’t shake the image of that crazy tabloid columnist from the tabloid Weekly Weird[World] News from many years ago!) I believe my Dad may have given up on the Darien, but he can be pretty determined sometimes. We’ll see what happens.
Once again, thank you all for taking the time to reply. I’ll report back with details when they return, if anyone is interested.
There was some severe damage done to the trail by heavy rains in late 2009. In particular, a bridge over a stream near the beginning of the trial was washed out. (A guide later drowned here when he tried to cross when the river was too high.) I’m not sure if the bridge has been replaced, but I expect they should be able to walk in at least that far. Quetzals can be seen along this stretch.
La Chunga is probably the most accessible site in the Darien beyond the end of the road, but even there a trip is not a spur-of-the-moment affair.
