Yes, I have tried a pool-specific board. The “you must fix it” response does not help. You folks are usually more flexible,
I have an old, neglected in-ground (plaster). The killer here is that the equipment is 40’ from the pool, and that 40’ is paved. The valves are mid-way between the pool and the pump. in a tiny spot not paved.
I have had 3 pumps (don’t go there), all exhibited the same thing - the top 4" of the basket sump is air - I can watch the flow of water from the pipe hit the opposite side of the basket.
I just excavated the input valve and checked it for leaks - neither water nor Saran wrap indicated suction while pump was running.
All that is left of the original suction line was just enough to glue a union on - all the rest of the line was connectors. I am the first to think of the next poor slob and use unions.
It should be noted that the original pump, using the original suction line, had the same problem.
This pool has a single floor drain - it comes up to the bottom of the skimmer - a neat way of ensuring a water source if the water level drops below the skimmer inlet, and avoids suction entrapment.
In the current state of affairs, it also produces zero suction - I couldn’t locate a jetter, but a 1600 psi pressure washer blew out a handful or so of tiny pebbles when I tried to clear the line between the skimmer and drain
BIG Q:
As long as there is enough water coming through to keep the impeller submerged, is running it in this condition going to cause problems?
Second Q: I have a bit of hillbilly in me - would a 2" pvc pipe stuck in the skimmer and run along the surface (no-hub connectors for some flex) to the pump work?
Remember - that 40’ is all paved - a few holes drilled on either side with bits of rebar as stakes would keep it in place.
HELP! - I would really like to maintain a blue pool - at least for a couple of years until I can sell the place
My pool sucks air. I just live with it, because it’s not too bad. If yours is sucking a lot of air, you will reduce your filter efficiency by quite a bit, because the top of the filter will be filled with air. You can get automatic bleeders that work pretty well to take care of this.
What’s worse is what happens when the pump is off. If you are leaking a lot of water, it can raise your water bill be a noticeable amount. I know, because I have some trees crack my return lines, and it ended up costing me 20% extra on my water bill.
My next step is to put teflon thread tape on the union and see if it gets deformed or ends up in the basket.
I remember the original pump would produce quite a bit of suction at the skimmer - I’m thinking I should have said screw the next guy - I’m using the last 3" of pipe for a straight connector - the union I installed is the only change that has happened since the first pump died.
If the tape test is negative, I will simply pack the entire assembly in plumber’s putty and see where holes show up.
There are companies who use special equipment to do electronic leak detection. A test is typically around $150 and can save you much time, effort, and money. If you’re lucky, they will be able to locate the leak to within a few inches.
An old 40’ line could have multiple cracks and/or breaks. You may end up replacing the entire line. But the test should be able to let you know this.
The line is PVC, so it is at least flexible - and it is paved over. Somebody did NOT like mowing - the pool is 6’ from the west fence. From that side of the pool to the east fence is paved, save a 1’ strip next to the house and 8’ along the rear fence (now overgrown - I also hate yard work).
If the leak is not in the above-ground piping (I have been doing my own plumbing for 30+ years - I don’t do leaky pipes - right!), I am NOT opening up those slabs - I will run a pipe on the surface and install a leaf canister (designed for pool cleaners which bypass the skimmer) to replace the skimmer.
I may make some “look at the stupid hillbilly” site with it, but I will not give a rat’s patooie…
This sounds similar to my pool. I’ll tell you what I did and if it helps, great. Note: I am not a plumber or a pool guy, but I do play one on TV. So accept or reject what I have to say at your discretion.
When I bought my house the return side of the line was blowing massive bubbles and the pressure was poor. After some research I turned my attention to the suction side of the line (from the skimmer to the return side of the pump). I didn’t know it at the time, but it wasn’t one thing. It was EVERYTHING. So, in order:
I found that the elbow joint under the skimmer was cracked. Dug that out and replaced it.
Had a guy with a leak detector (it can hear leaks underground) check the line between the skimmer and the pump. He couldn’t find anything.
What happened? Everything near the pump sprung a leak. The above ground pipe leaked and, surprisingly, so did the strainer pot. It turned out that the strainer pot had cracks in it that did not leak under normal pressure, but were sucking air the whole time. So I replaced some connectors, sealed other with plumbers goo, and replaced my strainer pot. I now have good suction and no bubbles.
I’m condensing this process but believe me, it wasn’t easy. It took months and lots of trial and error. Mostly error. In your case you could have other problems, like air suction through your pump, but you just have to eliminate them one at a time.
As to your questions: reduced suction won’t hurt, but you don’t have to live with it. There are ways to identify the leaks (as above) and fix them. Same answer to question #2. Even if you can’t fix the leaks you can have a blue pool by dosing the water with shock and chlorine on a regular basis and keeping the pump running 24 hours a day if you have to. On my pool the idiots who installed it only had a manual on/off switch. I replaced that with a 7-day timer so now the pump only goes about 8 hours a day, which is enough to keep it clean.