Maybe not the only but probably the best. Split units are a good way to solve the problem of strange windows and no central AC. Some are very efficient and you can buy any level of power that you need.
RE: The swamp cooler thing…if you live in a dry area, like Death Valley, swamp coolers might work…though water restrictions might be another problem. If you live in a humid area, adding more humidity to the air will likely result in condensation on the walls, ceiling, etc, promoting mold growth.
If you don’t have central air, then you really are stuck with a portable unit. Just for kicks I would get a heating and cooling company ou tto look at it.
I bought one for use in a dorm where we weren’t allowed to have air conditioners. It worked fine. It’s less efficient than a window unit, but if you can’t have a window unit for whatever reason and want an AC, that’s the way to go.
I’m not familiar with this setup, but I would call around for other bids. We have had plenty of experience with contractors telling us flat-out lies, because they wanted us to buy the system they prefer to work on. Maybe another contractor will tell you something completely different. It’s worth a shot. Check the phone book for your area.
Another thought I just had. It could just need a new fan motor to make it run more quietly. In any case, check with an old-time heat and air contractor who has been around for a long time, who may be familiar with your ancient model, and have old part laying around to fix one. Can’t hurt.
Could you explain this further? It sounds like you already have a “split/ductless” installation. They certainly still make these; I guess “Some Guy” means that they don’t make a compressor/condenser that will hook up to the existing air handler. I’m not sure this is necessarily true; even if the manufacturer of the original unit has gone out of business, the connections and such ought to be standard. Electrical service (control circuitry, transformer, inverter – it depends) may require some ingenuity, and maybe some extra money. Probably beyond the scope of your handyman, and the cost of hiring a sufficiently ingenious HVAC specialist may be more than makes sense, but I think it would be good to check it out. Do you have a name and model number for the existing unit(s)?
WARNING: I am not an HVAC professional, nor could I be mistaken for one at a distance. Objects in mirror are closer than they appear. If side effects persist, consult your physician.
Check out the Split Units as suggested by Sapo They only require a hole though the wall for the refrigerant lines and perhaps a power line. But as it seems there’s already power outside that may eliminate the power coming through the wall.
A fellow at work had one installed in his room addition and it’s a combo AC and heat pump. So it heats and cools.
Bullshit they dont …
one by mitsubishi
and more manufacturers
I like to think that they hail from drier climes, where a gentle breeze often does suffice. They’re not trying to be mean; they truly have no understanding of how oppressive the heat gets once the humidity is added in – and I’m jealous of them for that!
I tried to explain to my wife that leaving ceiling fans on in rooms that nobody is in isn’t doing anything, and she failed to believe me.
Could a PTAC placed in the same spot solve the problem? These are the ones you see in Motels. . .
Through the Wall
I live in a place that gets humid in the summer, so swamp coolers don’t work. It’s not THAT hot up here, so most people get along without AC, but Mr. Athena and I both work from home and even a few 90+ degree days tend to make us miserable.
We have a big house, with nothing but casement windows, so the cheapo AC units that do a great job and fit in a window won’t work for us.
We also have hot water heat, so no ductwork through which to pump central air.
We looked into getting some of the split units that people have mentioned. First off, they’re horrendously ugly. They’re also horrendously expensive. We were quoted something like $11K to cool approximately 1/3 of our house. Um… no.
We lived with the heat for a few years. Then we decided to really truly get married (after living together for 6 years, buying two houses together, we figured we were staying together for good…) and we planned a wedding with about 30 guests in our house one nice July day. Typical heat in July around here is mid-80s. Our wedding day? 106 degrees. No way could we have 30 people and a bunch of catered food in that heat.
So as it turned out, the major expense of our wedding was buying a couple of those free standing AC units and plexiglass inserts to put in our windows (they replaced the screens) with holes for the vent hoses.
They work fine. More expensive than the AC units that fit in the windows (but like I said, those weren’t an option for us) and they don’t work as well as them either. But they’ll get a room down to a nice temperature for working or sleeping. We both use them in our offices now and they do the job. Altogether they cost us about $1000.
I think what mom has is a through-the - wall - it’s not central air. I think I’ll have to call a company to come out and give an estimate, this is probably beyond ‘Some Guy’s’ area of expertise. Though he’s tinkered with it in the past, the unit is 30 years old and has to be replaced.
I have had most infuriating experiences with these things.
Somebody started selling these things with two hoses, both of which go out the window. One takes outdoor air in, and the AC pumps heat and usually humidity into that air, and the other hose takes the hot humid air out. I think these are a bit more expensive than window units of the same size, mostly because there are so many people competing in the window AC market driving the price down. But a 2 hose unit like this would probably be very satisfactory.
However, then somebody had the brilliant idea that they could use the indoor cooled and dehumidified air as the source of the air they would heat and pump outside, thereby eliminating one of the two hoses. Anybody looking at them in the store would think that only having one hose is an advantage, or at least I imagine that’s how it goes. But this means that hot humid air from throughout the house is slowly being drawn toward the AC, and it is fighting to push outward a sphere of cool comfort against the incoming air current it has created. I had one of these things and could not get the RH below 85% in my bedroom.
Eventually I used sheet aluminum and epoxy and pop rivets and more blood than seems fair to convert an $80 window AC to do the job right, and it will now get the RH down to about 40%. So, I have $80 invested in the unit, plus about $10 for materials, and about $400 for my time. And $3 for bandages.
I think that Maytag still makes a model with two hoses, and I might order one, but I wouldn’t consider getting another one-hose model.
There are portable units that have single hoses, and those that have two hoses. The two-hose models are much more efficient, as they pull the intake and exhaust from outside like a window unit would. So look for one with a double-hose system.
They’re still less efficient, because the compressor and blower create heat when they operate, so the in-room AC units have to add extra cooling to make up for the heat they create in the process, while the window units shed their heat to the outside.
We’ve got a portable unit, and it works fine. Rather than cool our entire house, we just use the portable to provide spot cooling in our bedroom or anywhere else we need it. If we turn it on about an hour before we go to bed, the bedroom is nice and cool while the rest of the hosue is sweltering. We use its internal timer to shut it off a couple of hours later, when it’s already cooling outside. So even though it’s less efficient than a whole-house system would be, we still use far less energy.
This is the best solution.
Get a few more quotes. If anybody you call will come out and look for free, absolutely let them. It could be something as silly as a burnt wire or bad capacitor.
Edit: If they fix a burnt wire or capacitor and charge you double (maybe $150-200), it’s still worth it.
In my house we have central air but in my room I needed additional cooling for all my computers. I out a window unit in that when it’s on fan only is quiet but when the compressor kicks in it’s loud as blazes. Anything I can do to quiet it down?
"My mother had an old outside central air type thing that finally rusted and fell apart after 30 years "
You sure about that? It just rusted and fell apart? I would bet dollars to donuts that if you haven’t even had a professional inspect it, that it’s either a burnt wire or a bad capacitor.
DO NOT spend any money on anything before you’ve had it looked at.
A $50 inspection plus a $10 capacitor = working system… $400 internal unit = inefficiency + way more electricity bills + headaches.
edit: i recomend calling and quoting this post
I installed a split-ductless in a room we added onto my sister’s home, and it works wonderfully. The unit we got was a heat pump, so it works heating and cooling. The interior unit is fairly small and very quiet, all the noise is outside.
You know, a photo of the outside unit and some measurements of the interior space might be helpful.
Unless “Some Guy” is epa certified it would be against the law for him to work on the unit.
I’m surprised at all these negative posts. I bought a Sharp portable from Home Depot three summers ago and I just love the thing!
It gets used two or three months a year and I’ve only cleaned the filter once in three years. I’ve never had to dump any condensate, but then I don’t live in a terribly humid area.
I live in an old poorly insulated mobile home and primarily use it to cool my bedroom/office area of 350 square feet. The Sharp cools the room quickly when I put it on high, then lopes along to keep the place at a nice 68 or 70 degrees.
It is very quiet, everything operates from the remote.
I picked this particular model because I’m frugal. I was looking for one that would fit my odd windows, yet be inexpensive to operate and I had a neighbor that had this model. He runs it off a solar setup and folks with solar power are anal about excess power usage, so I knew he carefully studied the options and seer ratings.
I watched my power bill for the first few months and truthfully, I can’t see that it costs more than $10/mo. to operate.
My few complaints would be that it takes up a fair amount of room, I mostly lose use of that particular window when it’s in use. It’s heavier than heck if you have to pick it up for some reason, but it rolls very easily wherever I want it. Don’t lose the remote because you can’t operate it without one. The exhaust tube does get very warm, which seems to defeat the whole idea, but this year I plan to wrap some insulation around the tube to see if it makes any difference.
It also has an ionizer, if you’re into that sort of thing.