With my first real job well underway, it seemed like it was about time for my first real vacation. So, with a little help from a travel agent friend, I’ve booked a trip to Prague, Vienna and Budapest for early September. I’m really looking forward to this–I’ve always been interested in Eastern/Central Europe, and the chance to see these three great cities is probably not something I would’ve imagined five years ago.
In preparation, I’ve picked up Rick Steves’s books for each city/region and begun working my way through them. I’ve already got some things in mind–the Sedlec Ossuary, an opera in each city (I’m a fan, and it’ll be nice to add to my list of Great Operas of the World I’ve Visited), the black light theatre in Prague, and as much authentic local food and beer as I can get my hands on. I’d appreciate it, though, if any of you who’ve been to these places has any special recommendations for sights, things to do, or places to eat. I’ll be spending four days in Prague, and three in each of the other two. If you’ve got any ideas for what to especially avoid, I’d appreciate those as well.
In Vienna, be sure to see the KunstHausWien, the museum dedicated to (and designed by) the eccentric and fascinating artist/designer/architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. You’ll rarely see anything quite like it.
I very much enjoyed the Schoenbrunn palace and the Kunsthistorisches Museum, too.
My post was primarily “how to see most of the cool stuff in Prague if you only have a single day,” which won’t be a problem for you. You’re already off to a good start with black light theatre and the opera, if opera is your thing. It’s been too long since I was back to recommend good places to eat right off of the top of my head (I can ask some friends, though), but as far as dishes go you’ve got to try the guláš s knedlíky and svíčková if you want to get the local flavor.
In Vienna, my son and I really enjoyed the Music Museum and Schmetterlinghaus. I’d add the cemetery as an absolute must-visit (Beethoven, Boltzman, the Soviet Cemetery…)
And to this very day, his favorite “restaurant” in the world is the Weiner Wurstel stand in Stephansplatz (the Cathedral and tower is worth a visit, too.)
Don’t choose the Charles bridge and castle as your first outing in Prague. The touristy nature of that area could very well put you off the whole city. Ditto any encounter with a local cab driver.
If you have an appreciation for Art Nouveau (one of the few reason I would revisit Prague) make sure you check out the Mucha Museum.
If you are traveling between cities by car, consider a stop in Český Krumlov, especially if the weather is still hot. Besides the serpentine river (which you just jump into and take a swim if you take the notion) and the Baroque architecture, this small town has some of the best food I’ve ever eaten in central Europe (savory crepe dishes covered in pepper sauce and local cheese…yum!).
The old town in Prague, with its winding, cobbled streets, is very picturesque. The Prater amusement park in Vienna is fun, and be sure to get yourself a Wienerschnitzel and frites at a corner pub. There used to be a rib place that was a floating restaurant on the Danube: outstanding dry-rub ribs. You can’t go wrong with the pubs in Vienna: great beer, soft pretzels. Used to be, you could hear free outdoor classical concerts in the summertime there.
The Statue Park in Budapest is pretty cool. After the fall of Communism, they dragged all their old communist-era statues out to a park on the outskirts of town, where you can see them, and visit their little museum there.
I only spent an afternoon in Vienna, so all I saw was the city center and the Stephansdom.
My wife and I get a kick out of old churches for some reason, so we checked out St. Vitus’ in Prague, St. Stephen’s in Budapest (pay the 50 forints to light up his mummified hand; it’s an odd and tacky experience) and the Stephansdom in Vienna.
I second the Music Museum in Vienna. I spent about 4 hours in it, and could have stayed all day. there’s lots of fascinating interactive technology, among other things. And you can try out your conducting skills with the Vienna Philharmonic.
They still have the ferris wheel from the movie “The Third Man.” And elsewhere, I found the doorway that Orson Welles was standing in, when he first appears.
Book recommendation: Prague by Arthur Phillips. Fantastic novel with a ton of history and background. The kicker is that it’s about Budapest, not Prague. The title refers to the yearning of Budapest-based expatriates to be located in Prague rather than Budapest. Funny.
You have have have to go to a public bath in Budapest. Relaxing, fascinating, endlessly diverting–my wife and I thought it might be fun for an hour and ended up spending half the the day there, between the people-watching and utter relaxation. A must.
