I can see putting a rubber mallet in my car, but anything that involves swinging at a car on a jack with a sledge hammer is not going to happen.
The chance of you swinging at your car with sledgehammer hard enough to make three tires move sideways is pretty small. But if you’re worried, lower the jack so the tire is just barely off the ground and even screw the lug nuts back on (not tight, just back on) and then take a couple of whacks at it. That way if the car does shift it can’t actually go anywhere. It wouldn’t even be able to fall off the jack.
ETA, you probably don’t ever want to try doing any kind of brake work. The front end way up in the air. The tire off and you pushing, pulling, using a breaker bar, hitting, hammering yelling swearing etc. If the car is going to fall, that’s when it’s going to happen and there’s nothing to catch it…except maybe your lap.
The wheels on my Mazda3 get stuck to the hub all the time. I’ve never been able to get the wheel off without using a sledgehammer (which I carry in the trunk for this reason.) The first time I got a flat and I couldn’t get the wheel off, I tried all the other tricks (including just sledgehammering the tire, without hitting the rim), and none of them worked. So I called roadside assistance, they came, one or two whacks against the inside of the wheel where the rim meets the tire, and it’s off. I’ve had multiple flats since then (about four or five), and they’ve always required me using the sledgehammer.
Prudent.
What about loosening the lugs/nuts just enough that there is a narrow gap between the lug/nut and the wheel. Then taking the car off the jack and pulling it forward a half wheel turn or so. Wheel might just work itself loose without causing any damage to wheel or lugs.
It’s actually pretty easy to make a car on a jack fall down. I had to change a tire on a tiny, tiny incline (it blew on the highway) once and whole thing toppled as soon as I tried to loosen a lug nut - and in such a way that the jack stayed stuck against the jacking point AND the wrench/bar attachment point was no longer accessible. 
That’s why I specified “sideways”. To knock it off the jack sideways, you’d either have to make the tires skid or rock the suspension sideways, both are hard to do. However, rolling forward/backwards, either via the suspension, the tires stretching a bit or the drive train moving, is much easier. That’s why you put the car in park AND pull the parking brake. It helps stop at least some of the movement. Chocking a wheel and doing it on a level surface (as the manual suggests) should eliminate more of it.
This is the only good argument I can think of for periodically rotating your tires.
This kind of thing happens all the time - with steel wheels it’s just corrosion, with aluminum wheels it’s a chemical reaction between the alum and the steel it’s pressed against.
I rotate my tires myself and sometimes have to use a 20lb. sledge to hammer the wheel off from under the car swinging the sledge against the inside of the tire - being careful not to hit/damage the wheel or the brake disc.
If you’re on the road and get a flat - here’s what you do:
- loosen the lugs enough so you can turn them with your fingers and leave a 1/4" gap or so between the lug and the wheel.
- drive the car forward, slowly and carefully, a few tire revolutions - 10 ft. or so. This should break the stuck wheel free.
- lift the car and remove the lugs entirely. If the wheel is still stuck, give the tire a few solid whacks with the lug wrench (careful about the fenders and the wheel).
- If that still doesn’t work, put two lugs opposite of each other (not adjacent) back on about halfway. Lower the car, and roll it forward (or backward) again, very slow and careful.
- proceed with tire change.
I don’t see how it would be a problem at all, drums or discs.
Agreed, my greasy friend. The parking brake has nothing to do with it. If the lug nuts are removed or even loosened, the only thing holding the wheel on is whatever surface tension has formed between the wheel and the rotor or drum face it is pressed against. Call it corrosion, or just call it a reluctance to part, doesn’t matter what you call it. It’s just stuck on because, well, it has been tightly pressed up against another flat surface for a long time, through all kinds of weather, all kinds of temperature cycles, and it plain ole does not want to let go. You need some kind of “persuader” to do the job. My Subaru does this, and I have found that really well placed 2x4 can do wonders.
(Bolding mine)
I don’t thing that word means what you think it does. Or else spell-check struck again.
I suspect you meant “tenaciously”. “Tenuously” would imply they parts are weakly or just barely stuck together, rather the opposite of your intent.
Yep - the problem was that the wheel was stuck because of some sort of chemical or mechano-chemical adhesion. Using the parking brake is an extra safe method to see that the wheels on the ground don’t turn at all (even though you’re in Park) and to keep the wheel you’re working on from moving while you’re trying to turn the goddamned lug nuts. I’ve used the kick it with your heel method to loosen a tire, which also entails a degree of care that the jack doesn’t topple.
You mean other than getting optimum tire wear?
It’s for sure corrosion. I’ve seen on cars I have worked on. The steel steel hub rusts and locks the aluminum wheel.
When the car is on the rack I used a plastic faced dead blow hammer to beat the shit out of the wheel and it can still be tough to get them off
Cleaning and a light coat of anti seeze will prevent a reoccurrence.
Uh, OP, so what did happen? Were you finally obliged to give up and abandon flat-car-lady to her fate? Or are you still there waiting for the right suggestion that works? Which of the many suggested tools do you carry with you?
FWIW, I have often encountered this suggestion on car forums from people who say it works. Never tried it myself.
As stated elsewhere in this thread, one should always loosen the lug nuts or bolts before jacking up the car.
Thank You!
The brakes stop the hub from spinning, and the wheel is bolted (nutted?) to the hub. IME, engaging the brake is actually a boon for tire changes because I hates it when the tire spins when I’m removing it. Now, trouble fer shur when you want to work on drum brakes and you’ve got the parking brake engaged. I simply will never admit to whacking and cussing a drum for upwards of 30 minutes before figuring out what I’d done wrong.
Lots of smaller car wheels are supported entirely by the lug stud/nut. Bigger cars, especially SUVs, make you shove the center hole of the rim over a protrusion in the hub–like a ring on a finger–before you get to tighten the bolts. Get some corrosion or microdust worked into the seam between the hub and the rim and you got yourself a tightness that is best worked out with lumber, sledgehammers, or dynamite.
I think there is too much risk of denting the tire with a sledge. When I had this problem I carried a 3 feet long or so piece of 2" by 12" (you want something which has significant mass, but not something too hard so it will dent the tire).
JACK STANDS.
It’s a lot harder to whack a car off a jack stand, than to whack it off the actual jack.
How do you dent a rubber tire?
Color me confused.