Easy - just whack it with a substantial hammer. The dent will, of course, persist for only a tenth of a second or so.
(Your implication is quite correct: a decent blow to the tire is a good way to break the wheel loose.)
The tyre had better be able to tolerate much more substantial whacks than that !
Its the sharp edge or point that will cut the rubber.
I had a Ford Ranger for a few years that was like this. I had to use a long 2x4 to reach from the opposite side to the rim and hammer on it multiple times with a sledge to get the wheel off. Banging on the tire/from the wheel side of the truck didn’t work. Turns out the center hole on the rims was actually an interference fit on the hub center boss. Tightening down the lug nuts basically press fit the rim on the hub. I’m curious now how long I could have driven it with no lug nuts. Probably a long ways in a straight line, but a good sharp turn might have popped it off, ha.
Yeah, I basically gave up. I did tell her that my insurance (Geico) offers roadside assistance with their policies and she was looking into that (she also had Geico). She was also talking to her husband on the phone. Its not like I left her in the woods with the wolves circling.
I did not have a 2x4, sledgehammer or indeed any hammer. I can see putting a rubber mallet in my car, but that’s about it. If that does not work, I call roadside assistance. I do have some experience changing tires (though not recently) and I have never encountered this problem. In my experience the wheel practically falls off the car when you remove the lug nuts.
You’re close to the solution. put the lug nuts back on so they’re slightly loose. Lower the car off the jack and then move the CAR up and down and back and forth on it’s suspension. You have the mass of 3000 lbs working against the hub.
If it’s a matter of life and death then loosen the lug nuts and drive it off the jack. I did this accidentally once when I left the running car in gear. When weight of the car came down on the tire it broke loose. It was an aw shit moment when the car started to move but it turned out to be a fortunate event.
If this is a regular problem with all 4 wheels then a light sanding of the hub and wheel followed by a thin film of grease or wax should prevent future problems. I would use a product like Sil-glide.
I’m just curious if they were factory wheels, or some aftermarket wheel that had a smaller hub diameter. If the hub diameter on the wheel is just slightly smaller (say 50 mm instead of 2 inches–50.8 mm), it might go on but get really stuck when the lug nuts were tightened.
I’ve had this issue all 3 times I have needed to change a wheel on a Mazda3 (once a friend’s car, twice my own). This also amounts to the only times I have ever had to change a wheel, so it’s not as if this is peculiar to Mazda3s. Anyway, in my case a couple of hard kicks to the wheel dislodged it, and didn’t cause the car to fall off the jack. But then, I stupidly forgot to loosen the nuts before jacking so that required a bit of kicking as well, will try to remember that for next time as presumably I have been lucky to avoid disaster so far.
In the days of plane steel rims (and hub caps) the use of an Ox-Acetoline torch was used to heat the center of the rim red hot at times. And like Rick stated, a coating of anti seize was used during reassembly.
Now the spare tire that is on a cable under the car is another BIG problem. there is a guide that keeps the spare in the proper place while it is being stowed that gets rusted in. On my Dodge Grand Caravan the spare is behind the rear wheels and being i have a trailer hitch i was able to force the spare out with the jack between the hitch and tire and when it came loose it was violent!!
Now my Daughter has a newer Dodge G C and her spare is up under the center of the van and its stuck! I left the van on the jack and took the tire in for repair because try as i did the spare is still there and we forgot to have the repair shop address it when it was in for service this last time. :smack:
I love it when you talk dirty.
Grease or wax can and will melt from the heat of using the brakes. Anti seize won’t.
Your call.
Granted, that’s why I underlined “thin” coating. Haven’t tried anti-seize. I’ve been oiling studs and not had a problem but you would have more experience on what works best. You certainly don’t want anything on the brakes.
Wonderful stuff - wouldn’t be without my Permatex anti-seize.
The container cap includes a brush; 4oz will last a loong time. Every time you use it you get to think about all the struggle you won’t be having the next time the part calls for attention.
Once again I love the Dope. I have changed more tires than I can count and have never once encountered this issue…but I do happen to be driving a Ranger at the moment (not literally) Might be time to toss a hunk a lumber in the bed.