Question about finacial advisors/retitrement planners etc.

To make a long story short (please keep in mind I know nothing about finanacial things - I am terrible about money):

I used to work for this company that had a pretty good employee stock plan. I left that company about ten years ago but left my stock in their plan because it was gaining every quarter and I know nothing about financial matters. Fast forward to now…

Current employees and recent retirees from this company have advised me to remove my money from this plan. New management has taken over and many are envisioning and Enron-type deal happening. So I need to see some sort of financial planner.

I plan on using this stock money for my retirement, whenever that may be.

Q: How are finanacial advisors and their ilk paid? Is it a percentage? If I make an appointment to see one am I going to be presented with a bill, even if I decide not to use their services? I’m a 40 year old college student, and have pretty much no money to pay for extra stuff like this, but I need to move this money somewhere, and need help doing it.

Thanks.

Was it a stock purchase plantied to retirement like a 401k or just a way to buy into company stock?

If it was a 401k you can cash out and put all of it into a IRA of your choice without penalties for early withdrawl. If it’s set up as a retirement plan it’s still your money but by withdrawing it early you take a big hit. That’s why it’s importaint to know what type of plan it is. Does your current employer have a retirement plan? You may be able to roll the old one into the current one.

If it’s a regular stock plan, call the 1-800 number of whatever institution is holding the stock on book for you. They will send you a form to fill out to sell. A few days later you get a check in the mail.

What you do with the money is the fun part. Spend it or tuck it away? Where to put it? By yourself you could open a mutual fund or IRA with any of the big companies like T Rowe Price or Vanguard or whosever commercial you saw on TV last night. Ask a friend or somebody you trust who they use.

That’s what I did, I hit up on my anal tightwad older brother who read all the propoganda from all the different places and asked him where he kept his money.

It’s an ESOT (Employee Stock Ownership Trust) .But what to do with it isn’t really my question - I am planning on letting an expert sort all that out for me. I want to know how these experts are paid. I do appreciate your input, though. :slight_smile:

My financial advisor is paid by flat annual rate (I pay quarterly). He receives no commisions on purchases or sales. My advisor is employed by American Express Financial Services (they recently changed their name to AmeriExFinServ or some such stupidity). Hope this helps.

The short answer to your question is “it varies.” Some advisors require an annual fee. Some are compensated out of mutual fund fees. If you have someone in particular in mind, just ask, “How are you compensated?”

Thanks. It does help, but I am confused by the quarterly statement - what if I want to do a one time deal - just get the money out of where it is now and into another type of account(s) where it will be safe until I retire?

At this time I cannot imagine why I’d need a financial advisor for a year or more (and need to pay him/her quarterly). Purchases? Sales? Of what?..but like I said I am ignorant about money matters. I’m in college full time now, so I’m not working.

Boscibo,

Financial planners will take you on according to any one of a number of different price structures.
When I interviewed at Amex Financial Advisors, it was made clear that they only wanted clients with in excess of $100,000 in net worth. You may get turned away at some places if you come to the table with less.
The Motley Fool outlines a number of different price structures in an article [1].

  1. Fee-Only Financial Advisor: $175/hour
  2. Fee-Based Financial Advisor: $175/hour or 1-2% commission/referral
    or commissions/referrals on products sold
  3. Commission-Based Financial Advisor: $175/hour or 1-2% commission/referral or commissions/referrals on products sold

I believe that the only kind of advisor to work with would be fee-only. I believe that any other price structure will encourage your advisor to sell you products that may have excessive commisions built into their price.
I will also suggest that if your assets are beneath a certain threshhold, a financial advisor may suck up more assets in fees than he really helps you earn.
I can’t say where I’d place that threshhold, but I’d consider it likely that you’ll wind up losing 10% of your assets if you tried using a conventional financial advisor with less than $5000 in assets.
If your amount is low, I’d consider self-directed investing using something like a Sharebuilder account.
Here’s an interesting article on ethical conflicts with Financial Advisors:
http://www.physiciansnews.com/finance/1003.html
and a promising article on fee structures:

[1] http://www.fool.com/fa/finadvice06.htm?source=PFinAg

Hmmm. I ran a financial analysis simulator provided by my employer.
I ran it with my current retirement assets, and changed only the assumption that I’m my age to the assumption that I’m 40.
It came up with an asset allocation that read as follows:
15% Bond Market
10% International Growth Fund
20% Primecap
55% S&P 500 Index

It is over that amount. But, it isn’t like that money is in my checking account or anything, and I don’t have $175 an hour to blow right now - even if it only took an hour. If it took 5 hours there is no way in hell I could pay!

Your last post made no sense to me; is that what I should do? I still feel as lost as ever. :frowning:

OK, I’ll give it a try:

It sounds as though your retirement is all or mostly in your company’s stock, and you’re concerned that you might lose it if something bad happens to the company.

It also sounds as though you’d like to move it “somewhere else” so that you don’t lose it all.

Your questions then seem to be “How do I do this, and how much is it going to cost?”

Now, the company holding your stock can supply you with the paperwork to roll it over into an IRA, which is probably what you want to do so that you don’t hit with a serious bite. I believe that when you roll over, you can request a check for the amount instead of the actual stock. I believe when I did this some years ago, the check was written out to me and the (new) financial institution holding my account.

Your (future) financial advisor will then take those assets (stock or check) and divvy it up into several buckets. In the previous example, the buckets were:

Bonds: (Basically, you lend a company, level of government, etc. some money, and they promise to pay it back with interest. Hopefully, the people selecting the bonds will choose high quality bonds that are not likely to fall victim to default.)

International Growth: These are probably stocks. Notice the relatively small percentage that the program said to invest. Typically, when a fund says “growth” it means there’s a little higher risk factor with it. Potentially, though, there’s a much bigger payoff over time. I also think that “International” can include US stocks, at least it used to.

Primecap: Not sure what this is. My guess is that it’s probably a mutual fund of some sector of large companies.

S&P 500: This is a list of 500 large companies representing a broad spectrum of US companies. The mutual fund invests in these companies. Note that this is was the biggest chunk of allocation.

And if you’re not familiar with a “mutual fund,” here’s the way I visualize it. Think of it as one share of a company, but that one share is made up of pieces of shares of lots of different companies (or bonds, as there are bond funds, too). That way, if you have $100 for example, and it was in Enron stock, you’d probably have nothing, now. However, if that $100 was invested in an “Energy Mutual Fund” that contained many energy companies, one of which was Enron, it might take a hit—but you wouldn’t lose it all.

A couple of more points:

Do not take investment advice from friends, relatives, acquaintances. What is a good strategy for them, is not likely to be the same strategy for you. That’s where the advisor comes in. Some are paid by the mutual fund in the fees that they charge.

If you decide to invest in stock or bond mutual funds (like those listed earlier), think about how much stomach you have. Are you going to freak out and panic when one day you look at your portfolio, and see it’s lost almost half its value? That does happen. And 20-30% drops from one statement to the next are not uncommon. Now, typically, most people just ride it out, since over time it catches up again, and will outperform interest-bearing savings accounts—over time. Some people, however, don’t want to ever, ever see that there retirement has gone down in value, and there are ways of accommodating them, too.

Here’s a good site for a lot of terms
http://www.investorwords.com/

Boscibo:

My suggestions are as follows:

  1. Contact whoever is hold your shares of company stock for you. Request that they sell the stock on your behalf and cut you a check for the sale price.
  2. Deposit the money into a checking account at a very stable bank.
  3. Procure a financial advisor. Transfer the funds into the brokerage accounts they help you open.

May I edge in? Here’s the website for FEE-ONLY financial advisers.

http://www.napfa.org/

They’re the National Association of Personal Financial Advisers
Fee-only means they’re not paid a commission to sell you something.
Look around and test the waters before you jump in.

I don’t agree. If the stock is in a tax-deferred account, you should probably do a direct transfer of the stock rather than having them cut a check to you. If they do that, they will need to withhold money for taxes (I think 20%). If the stock is not in a tax-deferred account, selling it all at once may cause a big hit on taxes. I think you should move the stock intact and work with a financial advisor and tax advisor to determine the most tax-advantageous way to diversify. Of course, if the company turns out to be another Enron as is being suggested to you, you’re better off selling all of the stock immediately, paying the massive tax bill and investing elsewhere. But if it’s a reasonably solid company despite your misgivings, you may want to sell the shares over time.

Sorry. My last post was in response to Mr. Slant. But I agree with the suggestion to talk only to a fee-only financial planner.

Dewey Finn, I am aware of the concerns you have, and would have mentioned them if I hadn’t made the assumption that the “pretty good employee stock plan” the OP mentioned was a a tax-preferred account.
If he’d said “my old 401K is all in my company stock at my old job” I would have suggested transferring the funds into some kind of tax vehicle.

I meant “NOT” a tax-preferred account.

As I mentioned I am a client of Amex Fianncial services, and I promise you my worth does not approach anywhere near $100,000. I wish! Actualy I fired my previous advisors, at Merril Lynch, for that very attitude.

Call a reputable company (I like AmEx), explain your situation, ask what they charge. It is perfectly ok to ask that before you make the appointment.