I got a new cable modem/wireless router from Comcast, and I think I have it set up the way I want with my current router, which I still want to use.
My question is this: I’m using the Comcast router in Bridge Mode while I connect with my usual router. In that case, does it matter at all what the firewall settings on the Comcast router are, either to my personal router connection or to the “public” xfinity wifi that the router is set up to create that I can’t turn off right now for whatever reason? I set it to minimal because I thought that it was interfering with my iPad’s ability to connect with certain game servers, but I wasn’t 100% sure, and I don’t want to go through the hassle of experimentation again.
In after edit limit: I’ve Googled, and it seems the connection thing IS a firewall issue. However, that still leaves me the question of how much relevance the firewall in the Comcast router has when I’m using it in Bridge Mode, and whether it’s a hazard to have the firewall on the Comcast router set to minimal levels if I’m using it in Bridge Mode, and if so, how to configure the firewall so I can get to the game servers. The (apparent) fact that the game servers seem to be blocked when the firewall on the Comcast router is set higher, even in Bridge Mode, gives me pause (and the wifi light being on on the modem).
I’m using my Comcast router/modem in bridge mode and I don’t recall even having access to firewall settings in that mode, but if I did, I’d definitely shut them off to use what’s in my router (assuming it’s a decent router, which if it’s not, I’d just dump it an use the Comcast’s built in one).
Are you certain you’re in bridge mode? We had to call Comcast and have them set it that way remotely, it’s not something you can set yourself (or at least last spring it wasn’t, maybe it is now, I but I doubt it). The way you say “the “public” xfinity wifi that the router is set up to create that I can’t turn off right now” seems to suggest it’s not set to bridge mode, as I don’t have any such thing. In bridge mode there shouldn’t be any wifi coming off the Comcast unit. Note: ours also does our phone line, so if you only have internet and not phone maybe your model works much differently. But I doubt it.
I don’t do online gaming, so I can’t really say anything about that, but I don’t have any problems with torrents and the like, which you’d think would be blocked sooner than game servers.
If you really can’t get it sorted, take the router/modem back to Comcast and request one that’s just a modem.
Or buy your own (usually Motorola 6121’s are the best option) and both have more control over your connection, probably better quality than the junk they give you, and save $5-10 a month in “equipment fees.”
And, by getting rid of their wifi one, opt out of being a system hotspot for them.
Hm, and another possible issue: my hub seems to be losing the IP address quite a bit — more than before, anyway (which was never), thus losing connectivity even though everything else is working fine.
Could that be a bridge mode issue? Would I be better off just turning it off?
Aaaand now, in a matter of half an hour, my iPad is on eternal pinwheel mode trying to connect to my Airport station, even though my laptop is connecting perfectly fine.
If THIS is, or could be, a bridge mode issue, I’m throwing in the towel on it.
And as soon as I turned bridge mode off, my iPad connected immediately.
(Though getting in to do so was a chore; even though I was connected to the cable modem directly through the ethernet cable, it was still giving me the “no IP address” message, or “status of your connection cannot be determined.”)
Is it really worth it to have bridge mode on, and/or get another one that’s not a router, at this point?
You’re probably locked into a contract, but I’ll tack this advice onto this thread for future generations:
Get the best internet service and deal you can from available providers.
Get competitive VOIP phone service from a second-party provider like Vonage.
Stream your video.
Never get bundled service, especially from a major provider. At a minimum, you get locked into difficult technical situations like this, where you can’t make your gear work right and are bound into things like Comcast’s wifi sharing system, and you’re paying them a hefty annual amount (in equipment fees) for the privilege. In most cases, you’re probably paying too much for too little on their terms. Doing it a la carte gives you great flexibility, probably better service on all fronts and likely net cost savings over the course of contract terms.
I don’t think you’re actually in bridge mode. Like I said, you have to call Comcast and have them set that. And to turn it off you can’t just go into settings, you have to hold the reset button a while and that supposedly turns it off (I’ve never done that, as then I’d have to call and get them to reenable it again).
Note the “connection expert” comments “*FWIW, the latest firmware update did not disable the end user from being able to toggle the wireless and bridge mode functions as they never were able to be toggled by an end user. CC always had to do that for the customers. *”
That’s for an Arris modem, but mine is an SMC, and it certainly works just like that. You may see a lot of posts about having trouble getting a rep to set the modem to bridge mode, but in my case, it was not hard at all and the rep knew exactly what to do, so I think they’ve gotten better since those posts were made (or maybe I was just lucky).
That may work for you, but it’s not for everyone. Bundling saved us money vs what we used to pay. I admit, it’s got downsides, like if one goes down they all do, but it’s worth the savings. And not everyone wants to stream their video, sheesh.
You’re not a hotspot for them if you’re in bridge mode either. And buying a modem is great unless it dies or they change to a newer protocol and stop supporting the one on your modem. Then you have to buy a new one, while if you were renting you just swap out for a new one. Not saying don’t buy a new one, just, again, it’s not best for everyone.