Recommendations for Philadelphia in December?

My wife and I are going to head up to Philadelphia for the first time for a quick weekend, and I just wanted to know either dopers’ recommendations or good sites to find information about what to do in Philadelphia. I don’t want any tourist trap stuff, though we will certainly do some historical sites. Any interesting markets or crafts places, arts, performances are all welcome.

Cautions are also welcome.

It’s been years since I lived on that coast, but I loved South Street - kind of a hipsterish main drag. I got my tongue pierced there in about 1992. And cheesesteaks. Do a forum search for non-Pat’s/Geno’s recommendations.

Joe

Boathouse Row along the Schuylkill is a lovely area for some sightseeing at night.

What about Chinatown. Is it really a Chinatown, or is it like DC’s “Chinatown.”

From my experience, its DC-ish. Though I haven’t spent a ton of time in it. I seem to recall its not really a touristy area. Though others can probably speak to it with more definitiveness.