Since you’re interested in putting vinyl on disc I have to add that I’ve been doing the same thing with my MiniDisc and having great results. I plug the “tape” output from my stereo receiver into the MIC input in the MiniDisc and record away. It’s a portable so I can take it everywhere and I bought one of those car adapters that you play by plugging your disc player into your car’s tape deck. I can’t believe how great it sounds.
The MiniDiscs themselves are semi-hard to find (around here, anyway) and the pricing is a bit absurd. Most places sell them in a 2 or 3 pack for about $3 a disc. The music store I bought some at the other day had in their selection: A single “Maxell GOLD” disc for $7.99 (come on! What needs to sound THAT GOOD?) a three pack of (I think) SONY for $9.99, and (my purchase, of course) a 20 pack of Memorex for $35. Good grief!
Please pardon our dust while we make improvements to our sig line!
Note that the pops and crackles that are inevitable with vinyl are much more noticeable and distracting now that we have a low noise medium such as CD to compare to.
For that reason I would recommend getting a CD writer for your computer. This will allow you the option of getting software that can reduce or eliminate the noise on the files recorded from your vinyl albums before you burn the CD.
You can also print the jewel case inserts from the play list that you record the CD from.
As a side note, I have also had great luck scanning the old album covers and printing out the jewel case cover insert.
Actually, what I said is it’s both. Inferior detection circuitry in audio CD players, coupled with inferior (soft) programming of the media.
I have to disagree, here. The format is independent of the media.
Again, this gets back to my original point. The bandwidth of the older audio CD player’s detectors are just one of the limiting factors.
I didn’t find anything useful at the Adeptec site you referenced, but here’s a better one for all your questions regarding CDR/CDRW:
CD’s should record up to 74 min. If you plan to copy CD to CD, you can probably condense lots of double Cd’s and 2 CD’s by most artists should easily fit on one copy.
Any audio cd you want to play on a standard music cd player must be recorded in one session and that session closed.
Older cd players have problems with the difference in color of the recording media. To make a cd readable by almost any player it has to be recorded to a CDR. Recording to one brand may not work, but another brand might. Newer players like DVD home players can usually handle the CDRW media, but don’t count on it. My hove DVD player will play back my MPEG1 recorded movies converted from VCR tapes that are dying after all these years.
I would go for the minidisk, if you want a portable player. Choose the home CDRW computer drive for regular cds.
I myself use Music Match JukeBox to rip and encode mp3s. It seems to work pretty well.
Well, either you’re closing your eyes to a situation you do not wish to acknowledge or you are not aware of the power of the presence of a pool table in your community. Ya’ got trouble my friends! -
Prof. Harold Hill
Gary Conservatory
Gold Medal Class
'05
Every source I’ve read says there is no difference in quality between “audio” CD-R media and regular CD-R media. The “audio” media simply has a bar code that tells the deck the record companies were paid for it, as part of a plot by the companies to charge you more for copies and originals and blame piracy for the prices.
By “bar code”, I’ll assume you mean embedded code in the media. There would be no way to add a true bar code that would be readable by the deck and not interfere with the actual media. If you are indeed talking about an embedded code, there are certainly a number of special codes that are defined by the spec “IEC 908”, the “Red Book” and the “Orange Book”, but none of these are pre-programmed onto audio grade CDR media, nor do they signal your deck that you’re dealing with audio grade media… what would be the point?
According to the instructions that came with my DVD drive, I should not play CDR’s or CDRW’s in the drive as it will damage them. Is this true? I assume from your post that you have played CDR’s in a DVD player without problem. Has anyone ever done this and had a problem?
I’ve never heard of such a thing. I can’t imagine how such damage would occur… Nevertheless, my OFFICIAL advice is to follow your instructions and refrain from trying to play CDRs and CDRWs in your DVD…