I’ve recently got involved in the sport of rock climbing. I mean just this last month. It happened completely by accident as my kids and I were looking for a new activity to do and share and a friend suggested a climbing gym and 24 hours later we were getting beginner lessons in belay and rapel techniques, basic knots and climbing tips.
Now, a month later… I’m addicted to the sport. I’m in the climbing gym on weekends perfecting what I’ve learned and getting tips from staff and experienced climbers alike.
I’ve learned that all that rope stuff is fun but the biggest thrill is the bouldering techniques performed without a rope. I didn’t think it was possible to hang from the ceiling with just your hands and feet for grip.
But what I like most about the sport is that they call climbing challenges “problems” and “projects”. Which they truly are. You keep trying to climb a certain path and fail from lack of strength or experience and that repeated process becomes the “problem” or “project” until you get it. It’s a very mental as well as physical challenge.
My current project is to finish a arch from one end to the other. I’m 3/4 of the way done but that last 1/4 is damned tough as I keep losing my grip and falling.
So who’s tried it and what is your current project?
I actually work for the UC davis climbing wall. I’m not much of a boulderer though.
My current project is to break past gym 5.11a’s
Once you start climbing 5.10b/c’s in the gym you should try your hand at lead climbing. It’s damn scary, even if you know your belayer has got ya.
My favorite part of the sport is the creativity. I started as a skinny geek 2 years ago and today i’m still a skinny geek. I doubt i’ll ever have the sheer strength to perform dynos and strength intensive bouldering moves, but I’ll figure out a way to do it, even if have to do an upside down toe hook.
What’s so very interesting to me is the difference between gym climbing and climbing outside. Whenever I go to a gym, my forearms ache, simply ache the next day. This almost never happens when I climb outside. Perhaps it’s a consequence of the manufactured holds, instead of the natural fluctuations in the rock, but I still find it interesting.
Current projects? Just getting back into the sport after a three-year absence. SpouseO and I used to climb frequently. We finally went climbing for the first time last April, and we need to do it more often. He’s thinking of building a climbing room in our back room to keep in shape, and I need to see whether there’s a gym in Minneapolis somewhere.
I think it’s because at a gym you can hop onto a route every 2.35 seconds whereas outdoors you spend much more time setting up top ropes, belaying for your partners, making sure everyones safe, the approach, etc. I also find that outdoors theres usually more rest spots, slabby sections and cracks.
I’m just doing 5.7 through 5.9. The bouldering might be a bit higher but I’ve got good upper (and lower) body strength so I can muscle through some stuff where I totally lack in skill and finess.
That lead stuff… is it scary because despite a great belayer, you know you’ll be dropping some distance from the last anchor point you set? :eek:
I’ve found that in most gyms you climb anything interesting until you hit at least the 10’s. Try some more top roping!
leading… it’s alot harder, mentally. At least for me.
Long time climber. Glad you’ve discovered the greatest sport ever.
Gym climbing is great in that you can get a lot of climbing in, in a short amount of time. And as you’ve found, you can get really pumped really fast. Projects are always great, but you do have some time limit in that they may remove or change the climb.
Enjoy gym climbing, but I would also encourage you to try real rock. I would recommend taking a beginning class through REI or some other outdoor outfit. Real rock is a very different ballgame. For starters, you will need to learn how to use your feet far more effectively than you do in the gym. Then, since the holds aren’t marked, you’ll learn even more creativity in finding holds and making holds work for you.
I find working projects on real rock, when you finally nail them, even more rewarding than gym projects. There’s something about having tackled a climb that wasn’t “put up” that is much more satisfying.
I hear and can totally see what you’re saying cormac262.
It’s my intention to gain confidence and skill beyond the beginner level, get more comfortable and familiar with the equipment and it’s use, then head outdoors.
I used to do some rope work with a search and rescue team. In fact, there’s a video around here somewhere that I shot from out of a stokes litter. It’s pretty interesting to see the perspective from the ‘victims’ point of view.
In that particular practice rescue, I was lowered down about a 100 foot cliff along with two handlers that helped maneuver the stokes.
cormac’s absolutely right - real rock beats anything a gym can put together, hands down. Not that there isn’t a place for gyms, just that they pale in comparison.
No need to really wait to gain confidence and skill - when you get on real rock, it’s such a different ballgame, you’ll be starting from ground 0 (no pun intended) all over again
Comfort with the gear (tying in, etc.) is good, but I suspect you’re already there.
What is key is someone to set up the gear and rope, and that is why I recommend taking a class to get started. Then I’d start looking at the bulletin board at the gym for (real rock) climbing partners - preferrably those who have gear (and know how to set it up).
