Here are the relevant specs:
Chainsaw -
120 V AC ~
60 Hz
4.5 A (NOM 4,5A)
Powerline DC to AC Inverter -
75 Watts continuous
100 Watts peak
input: 10 VDC - 16 VDC
Output: 120 VAC/60 Hz
Low Voltage Cutoff
Truck (Toyota Tundra) -
Power outlets (12V DC)
“The power outlet can be used for accessories that run in less than 10A.”
Will this work?
4.5A at 120V is 540W, so no.
Thanks for your prompt post! Is there any way I can make it work - like with one of those power inverters the kids today use with their stereos to make you car shake at a stoplight?
The 10A quoted in the truck’s power outlet spec is at 12VDC. Watts = volts * amps, so 10A at 12VDC is 120w, which with losses in the inverter gives you the 75w continuous/100w peak.
But 4.5w at 120VAC is 540w, as noted, and would be a 45 amp draw at 12V (actually higher to compensate for losses in the inverter). 1000w inverters are readily available, but draw way to much power to plug into the lighter plug. You’d need to connect it straight to the battery with heavy gauge cable. Also verify the rated output of your alternator, though that’s likely over 100A.
The inverter does not provide sufficient power for the chainsaw. Nor would the outlet be sufficient to power the correct sized inverter.
Places like Harbor Freight sells small generators that should be able to power the electric saw. The smallest engines are usually 2-cycle motors.
It would probably be cheaper to buy a real (gas) chainsaw. Unless silent operation is essential, a gas chainsaw is the easiest answer.
Many of the electric tool makers also make battery powered chainsaws, IME these do not work well for larger trees or even large limbs. YMMV.
IHTH, 48.
Depending on size of the job a battery powered reciprocating saw may do the job. I gave one as part of my kit of battery powered tools and it works fine for trimming limbs etc.
I have trouble with pull-start engines, otherwise I’d have a gas operated one. I’m not doing any heavy-duty logging, just clearing off a small lot.
Properly tuned chainsaws require at most three pulls. If the pulling part is hard for you, please consider hiring this work done. You should not be operating a chainsaw. They are dangerous and you could get killed.
I will assume that you can read & understand English, French, German, Japanese, or Spanish. If so, read in the owners manual, the engine start section. Good saws are remarkably reliable. Stihl and Huskvarna are good saws. Other folks have had good luck with other brands.
All of my saws start on one or two pulls. I do have one electric chainsaw, the kind that plugs into an extension cord. Mine is made by Mikita. It would work for your application. It turns slow & takes noticeably longer then any of my gas ones.
If the lot does not have power to it, you can rent a generator to run it. Have the rental shop run your saw with their generator before you leave their lot. Of course rent a generator that has electric start. Also get or rent some heavy duty extension cords. Being lazy, I would leave the generator in the truck bed & I would be willing to move the truck closer to the work, but far enough away that falling trees will not be able to hit the truck. Remember, SAFETY FIRST!
IHTH, 48.
Always put the choke on full before pulling it, then the instant it fires turn the choke off! Otherwise you’ll flood the spark plug and you will be pulling it and pulling it.This is kind of the golden rule for pull start 2-strokes. Also, and some may think this is scary but its no big deal, I ***always ***use a little blast of ether (starting fluid) before the first pull. Starts first time, everytime!
Re: safety. The saw in question is a Black and Decker Alligator, so the blade is shielded. I got if for my wife.
Found a small rechargable model, will use that. I have no need for anything more powerful, really.
ether is only really a danger on diesel engines with cold-start aids (glow plugs or similar.) The plugs can ignite the ether while the intake valve is still open and it’ll flash back through the intake.