I’ve been to Alcatraz twice, and while I found it interesting it isn’t nearly my favorite place in San Francisco.
Since you said you want to hike, here is the trail I mentioned
I went from the Visitor’s Center by the bridge south to Sutro baths, so I didn’t do the loop per se, but did the part closer to the water. I’m well past retirement age and had no problems with it.
I loved the Alcatraz Tour.
Lands End is amazing, even if you only stand on the cliff and look at the Golden Gate Bridge from the seaward side.
Chinatown is fun. Japantown is under-appreciated.
If you were a fan of Jefferson Airplane, drive past their former house at 2400 Fulton (the title of their 2-CD Compilation Album from 1987/1990).
You also should check out the iconic zigzag block of Lombard St (between Hyde & Leavenworth). You don’t have to drive it, but it is one of a kind.
Visit the City Lights Book Store, established in 1953 by legendary beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti.
If you like garlic, The Stinking Rose restaurant is fun. Although apparently, they moved across the street since I was there.
We did Alcatraz, Fisherman’s Wharf, and the cable cars all in one day, plus Chinatown in the evening. San Francisco is great for walking, more compact than you’d think.
One downside, which I guess still exists, was the huge number of beggars, some quite aggressive.
I love visiting San Francisco itself, but also loved getting to Muir Woods and Marin county. I was going to add Point Reyes if possible, especially if your family doesn’t live close to an ocean; it lets you get down to the water level. I enjoyed the easy Earthquake Trail.
If you have extra time (yes! add a day) and a vehicle, Route 1 north along the coast, although not as nice as the drive south, it’s still fun. We liked seeing some of the sites associated with Hitchock’s The Birds in Bodega Bay for example.
Not that I guarantee that they are still there, but Muir Woods sold the most adorable banana slug plush. Big incentive to go there.
A must visit for garlicophiles. Try the garlic ice cream.
There’s an interesting book set in Buena Vista Park called The Great Night. It’s a pastiche of A Midsummer Night’s Dream with faires playing havoc with humans. I enjoyed it.
Cool. I found Buena Vista Park while I was Uber driving, and quite by mistake. It’s a nice gem there in the Haight.
OP checking in, home from SF with comments.
Airport – It’s a bit of a drive from the airport to downtown. A Lyft ride (the only way to go, IMO) was $41 including tip.
Alcatraz tour – I was on the fence about doing this, but I am glad we did. Very cool. Incredible how spartan the cells are. The audio tour is fascinating, in part because some of the narrators are guards and prisoners of Alcatraz. A bit annoying, though, because earphones are not an option and you have to hold the device up to your ear the entire time. Note that you have to be semi-fit to make the ascent up to the actual prison, but you can take your time (or take a tram if necessary). Recommended by @WildaBeast.
Boudin Bakery – Worth visiting. Bought a small loaf of sourdough that somehow disappeared very quickly. Yum.
Buena Vista Cafe – It’s famous for introducing Irish Coffee to the U.S., although there is some debate about this. The Irish Coffee was tasty, but small and overpriced. The food was excellent. Recommended by @DavidNRockies.
Cable cars – Do not miss. Prepare to wait in line. Read @Bullitt and @Senegoid’s excellent advice upthread. We went early, and started at the “end”; ie, Beach and Hyde St. at Fisherman’s Wharf. We rode only the Powell and Hyde. Because we went early, we were one of the first aboard, because we started at the end, there were just a dozen or so people there. Know that, unless you purchase the all-day pass, if you get off you will have to pay again to get back on (unless you bought the round trip pass, where you get off at the end of the line, then queue up to get back on. This was a 45 minute wait for us). Also, if you stand, hang on! Especially around the curves.
Ferry Building Marketplace – It was nice, as expected, but not exceptional. Not a must-see, IMO.
Fishermans Wharf / Pier 39 – Touristy, yeah, but I recommend it. We saw some fun entertainment going on – magician / juggler, for one. Also enjoyed seeing the sea lions lounging on a raft at the end of the pier.
Flying - No problems going, multiple problems getting home. Delta cancelled our flight and re-booked us for the next day. Then, the next morning, they cancelled that flight. After many, many hours on the phone, we eventually obtained a flight home that was a day and a half later than our original return flight (and split us up from the other couple we traveled with, who had to settle for a less desirable flight home). I know this is not a unique situation - and our extra day there was actually wonderful - but the aggravation and uncertainty were not fun.
Fog – I expected the fog, but I didn’t think it would be so…alive. It wanders in, it lingers, it leaves for a while, and then it sneaks back up on you. Thicker than clam chowder, it is.
Ghiradelli Square – Meh. I picked up a hunk of nice looking chocolate with pecans, flipped it over, and then got woozy when I saw the price tag ($29.95).
Golden Gate Bridge – We crossed the bridge maybe ten times in various modes, including walking. Walking the bridge was awesome, but dress for the wind! It is 1.7 miles; our day was cool, windy, and foggy (not unusual, I’m told). Crossing the bridge on the top of the Big Bus was cold and windy and, because I was not really prepared, pretty uncomfortable. I got a lot of nice photos of the bridge, the best were from a scenic overlook very high up on the Marin County side at the Battery Spencer overlook (recommended by @Bullitt ). Parking is limited, but if you are patient, something will open up. Again, very windy up there but worth it for the view.
Haight-Ashbury – I was not going to not go, despite cries of “don’t bother” from the gallery. This is, to me, as historic as the Alamo and Monticello. I loved it. Had a very enjoyable lunch at Brioche. Could have spent hours at Amoeba Music, a large, old school record shop that scratched my nostalgia bone in just the right spot. Crane.
Hop-on, hop-off Big Bus – We got the 2-day pass and found it invaluable for getting around the city. We did the full circuit first, which took a couple hours, but it gave us a nice overview of what is available and helped us plan the rest of the day. Sitting up on top is the only way to go, but be prepared for the weather and the wind. Also, download the app to get real time info about location of the buses. Recommended by @lobotomyboy63.
The homeless – Definitely a problem, more so, it seems, than other large cities I have been in. We were approached by a few drunk/high/mentally unstable gentlemen, one of whom punched the window of our vehicle, then hurled a bottle at us as we drove away (we heard it shatter on the road behind us).
Lombard Street. – Rode down it, drove down it, and also walked up and down it. This is where I felt most like a tourist, but I loved it. I don’t know how the hell some folks actually live on that block, they must be twisted (heh). Recommended by @Steven_Maven.
Love Bus tour – This is a small (6 person max) group tour of the city in a vintage, psychadelic VW bus. It is advertised as a hippie-fied tour, focusing on the Summer of Love vibe and music. I enjoyed it, but it was not what I expected. The driver was nice, but very far from being a hippie. I expected non-stop 1960s music, but our driver just played small snippets of R&B, and very little of that. And I was expecting insights into the artists and the music and the culture that arose from the scene, but what we got instead was, “that’s the house Jimi Hendrix lived in.” It was fun being in the bus, it drew a lot of attention from passersby. It is pricey, though, and I’m not sure I would recommend it.
Muir Beach Lookout – Absolutely stunning, well worth whatever effort it takes to get there. Thanks for the recommendation, @squeegee.
Muir Woods - I’ve never seen the big trees before, so this was very impressive. We took a tour van there, so we were limited as to time (we had just an hour and 20 minutes to explore). I could have spent half a day there. Recommended by @Jeff_Lichtman.
Musée Mécanique – This was a fun diversion, especially if you like vintage/mechanical stuff. It’s amazing what passed for entertainment back in the day. Recommended by @WildaBeast and @Jeff_Lichtman.
Route 1 – We drove Route 1 north as far as Stinson Beach (maybe an hour?). The road was twisty and hilly for a good stretch, and very fun to drive. I felt like I was playing a video game as I maneuvered all the switchbacks. Plenty of scenic places to stop, became acquainted with a coyote who strolled up to our vehicle. Also saw plenty of seals – probably 50 of them - lounging on a stretch of rocks. Recommended by @John_Galt.
Saulsalito – Nice little waterfront town, but not unlike countless other waterfront towns I’ve seen.
Weather – Hey, did you know that San Francisco is cool and windy? I did, but I was still unprepared, especially while riding atop the BigBus crossing the Golden Gate. Even with a jacket I was extremely uncomfortable, and I am know far and wide for rarely being cold. The next day I stopped at a corner vendor and bought a winter hat and a pair of gloves.
mmm
That’s one of the best and most fairly balanced trip reports I’ve ever read, especially the homeless. Alcatraz is one of the most interesting tourist destinations I’ve ever been to anywhere and I was lucky to have a a gorgeous day with blue skies and no clouds.
In your visit to the Hashbury, did you get a look at 710 Ashbury Street, former home of The Grateful Dead?
In your visit to the Embarcadero area (Ferry Building / Pier 39 / Fishy Wharf ) did you also take in the Exploratorium? It’s right along that route.
A friend of mine lived for years in the house Jerry Garcia used to live in (San Rafael). I stayed there lots, too.
And remember what Mark Twain said: The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.
Yes, the Grateful Dead house was pointed out to us on the hippie bus tour, along with Hendrix’s house and the Jefferson Airplane’s house.
We did not do the Exploratorium, despite the raves it received upthread.
mmm
Expect to be planning my own trip soon, and I will definitely keep this in mind. Thanks for the write-up.
Thanks for letting me know. I believe you experienced what others have missed.
Crane
Thanks for this suggestion, Bullitt. This is where I grabbed this photo:
mmm
For others, when possible I fly out of Oakland. Much smaller than SFO, but doesn’t get the fog. Also more convenient to my house, but that’s not the major reason we use it. Half of it is Southwest, so it might not work for people.
Thanks for circling back @Mean_Mr.Mustard . Glad you had a good trip!
Battery Spencer is a great spot. The weather can be bad in the summer (fog, cold, wind) but if it’s a clear day and you’re bundled up it is well worth the views.
Note that there is a Vista Point near there where all the tour buses go (yellow circle), but Battery Spencer is sooo much better. (green circle and lines) Click on my pic here.
