Excellent intro there @Crafter_Man! Thank you. 
I have run-flats on my BMW. Very low profile Pirelli P-zeros. So a very different mission from a pickup truck or trailer. What follows may be more or less useful for that reason.
The run-flats work well for low air pressure situations. Handling is essentially normal at zero air pressure. My tires are rated for something like 100 miles at 50mph when dead flat. I’ve driven farther & faster than that on one that was already out of tread and I knew would be replaced not repaired once I got to the shop. Wear & handling was normal while flat. I would not have been up for driving aggressively on it, but I could drive in an ordinary sane manner with no handling concern.
Road hazards like nails, screws, etc, into the tread can be plugged & re-inflated just like an ordinary tire. Balancing and mounting is no different than a similar non-runflat low profile tire
The tire is just as susceptible to sidewall damage, blow out, or tread separation as an ordinary tire. What’s different is what happens next.
They run normally with a big sidewall cut that deflates them. I’ve had that happen on Miami’s junk-littered freeways at speed and except for the loud bang! it was a complete non-event. I thought I’d just hit some debris. It was only a few seconds later when the TPMS complained that I knew I had a dead tire. The sidewall gash was big and the deflation was instant. The car didn’t wiggle a bit.
I’ve had a tread separation on an old runflat that was on a car that had sat for years in storage. So lots of age and little mileage used; that’s not good for a tire.
So there I am going about 80mph and bang! The handling was as above: a non-event. The loose tread flap made a lot of noise and did some minor damage to the wheelwell liner as I slowed. Once stopped I inspected it, razor-knifed off most of the ~3"x6" loose tread flap and drove the massively unbalanced totally flat tire ~15 miles down the freeway shoulder at ~20mph then a few miles of surface streets mixing normally with traffic to the nearest tire center. Of course this happened on the interstate well out into ruralia, not in town. Again a non-event overall.
None of these events has resulted in wheel damage.
Given the size of my trunk there’s simply no space for a spare. Hence the factory run-flats. I’ve not tried fitting non-run-flats, so I can’t compare the handling exactly A for B on this particular car. But I’ve been driving sports cars aggressively now for 45 years and gone through a metric boatload of high speed tires by every performance brand you’ve heard of. These tires grip better, handle better, etc, than any earlier generation non-run-flats. If they are giving up something for their run-flatness, it can’t be much.
The only downside I can see is they cost extra, and P-zeros specifically don’t last many miles, but for both your and my very different missions it’s still the case that if you have to sweat the price of tires, you’ve already bought the wrong vehicle.
Hope some of this is relevant.
My intuition is that run-flat and off-road would be a poor combo. But if you’re trailering the boat to a lakeside launch ramp or campground that ought not be an issue.
Hitting potholes can be more dramatic because there’s not as much give to the sidewalls. On low profile tires like mine potholes are already bad news run-flat or no. High profile tires like a pickup might suffer more ride degradation through a pothole or might even be more prone to forcing a blow-out. Too much force and not enough deformation to spread the impact across time and space. Smart pickup drivers avoid potholes; idjits shout “Hey y’all! Watch mah truck own this pothole!”. You’re not an idjit.
