In January/February 2014 I put a new set of tires on my car. At the end of that same year I had to replace one of the tires, due to an unpatchable nail puncture.
This year, two different shops have noted that the tread on the newer tire is much lower than the other three. I most recently had my tires looked at a couple of weeks ago: the newer tire is at 3/32, while the others are at 9/32. The guy at the shop had no idea why the newer tire would be so much lower. His only guess was that maybe power goes to one rear wheel slightly before the other, but he didn’t really think that would account for the difference (or it would happen to a lot of people who drive the same kind of car, right?).
After I left the shop, I got to thinking: in March 2015 we had some nasty weather, including just enough snow and ice that my car got pretty stuck one day. There was much spinning of tires/wheels. If the newer tire spun more than the others, could that account for the difference in tread?
I suppose it’s possible. You’d have to have been halla stuck and really spent a bunch of time spinning that one rear tire. You’d remember the smell of burning rubber, no?
Other reasons for premature tire wear might include tire pressure. Any chance the worn tire runs low?
Finally, when they replaced the tire due to the puncture, are you sure you got a brand new tire?
Well it was 1.5 years ago now, but there *could *have been a burning rubber smell. I was definitely very stuck: it took two guys at least 15 minutes to get me out.
Not low enough to set off the TPS.
I actually mentioned that at the shop; I wondered if maybe the dealership (that I don’t go to anymore because of other shady shit) sold me a used tire but charged me for a new one. I didn’t look at the tire after I got it.
sigh
Conventional wisdom is to replace all four tires at the same time, and I don’t want to have to worry about low tread/reduced braking ability once the winter weather hits, so I’ll be putting a new set on sometime in the next month or so. Even though 3/4 of the tires are still in great shape, with 20k miles left on their warranty. Pisses me off a little. :mad:
Sometimes a really on-the-ball tire shop will shave down a new replacement tire to match the existing tires’ tread depth. Maybe this is part of what happened? It would help explain some of the difference, but really, such a dramatic difference is weird.
It’s possible you wore it out trying to get unstuck but I kinda doubt it. You’d have remembered the cloud of smoke.
Most likely, you got saddled with a used tire and didn’t notice.
As for changing all 4… I doubt it’s necessary - unless you’re driving an AWD platform. With 9/32 on the front, you’ve only worn down like 2/32 of the original tire. I’d keep the fronts. The rear, well, yeah… probably replace both with a new set. Try to go with the same make/model as the front.
You won’t get any measurable wear from spinning your wheels on snow and ice. The friction is too low. And if one wheel has good traction, it’s the other wheel that will spin (unless you have a limited-slip differential, in which case I wouldn’t expect you to get stuck in this case).
Is it possible you have a wheel alignment problem? Rear wheels can get out of alignment.
Wouldn’t alignment problems cause uneven wear and cupping? That’s something that would look very obvious. If the tire is uniformly worn, it’s probably not an alignment issue. Just my guess.
I don’t see how that big a discrepancy in tread wear could be due to anything but a difference in the durability of the tire (assuming the replacement tire was indeed new). You made no mention of getting the very same brand and model of tire, which can be a huge factor in treadwear.
Wouldn’t they have had to shave the replacement tire down way *below *the others, though? 9/32 vs 3/32 seems like an awfully big gap to me.
I will definitely replace at least the rear tires, but I think I’ll go ahead and replace all four. It’ll be easier that way – a little more piece of mind, too, because I’ll be starting from scratch, tire-wise.
Nope, every time I’ve had the alignment checked it’s been fine. This last time they recommended a realignment just because it’s starting to go slightly out, but since I know I’m getting new tires in a month or two I’ll just wait.
How would I know? Is that something the shop that just did the 12-month/45,000-mile service would have noticed? (Or that any shop I’ve been to in the past three years would have noticed?)
Thanks! I’ll check it the next time I’m at the car.
Correct, I did not get the same brand/model: I replaced a Goodyear Eagle with a Bridgestone Potenza. The dealership didn’t have any Goodyears in stock, and I had to drive 50 miles the next day and couldn’t wait for them to order one, so I went with the high performance all-season tire they did have in stock. All Potenzas have at least 40,000-mile warranties, though, and I’ve put maybe 25,000 on it.
Without looking up the specs, I’d say the answer is that the single tire is a high-performance tire that wears out quickly, whereas the other three are standard all-season tires. It’s really not unusual to only get 25k miles out of a high-performance tire, which has softer rubber and shallower grooves for traction. “Standard” and “high mileage” tires, on the other hand, can last 40k, 50k or even 60k miles, due to harder rubber.
The other possibility, of course, is that they sold you a used tire that was partially worn.
I’ve used the Potenza All Season High Performance tires. They don’t wear out particularly quickly. Pretty sure the issue was that it was a used tire.
You didn’t ask but I’ll go ahead and recommend you go with the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3 high performance all season tires. Having used the Continental Extreme Contact DWS and the aformentioned Bridgestone Potenza R960’s… the Michelin, while slightly more expensive, is a superior tire, IMHO.
Nope, the others are also high performance all-seasons.
Well, like I said, the Potenzas are warrantied to at least 40k miles and the Goodyears are warrantied to 45k. Seems like a stupid warranty if they’re likely to wear out at 25k…?
Nah, I’m gonna stick with the Goodyears. I had them on my RX-8 and liked them, and the three left on this car are performing well. And they’re reasonably priced.
Just because a warranty is 40k miles or whatever doesn’t mean you will get that many miles out of the tire. Tire warranties are practically worthless after 15k miles or so, anyway. The company will always say you failed to rotate them, or your car is out of alignment, or you drove like a maniac, etc. Even if they do cover, they will prorate the amount.
I can’t recall for sure, but I think it was Bridgestone Potenzas that wore out on my Maxima in 30k miles (I know for sure they were Bridgestone tires, but can’t really recall the model).
But, I can’t argue that your situation does seem mighty strange.
Nope! I hadn’t even heard of a treadwear number/rating until your post. Apparently these things are very model-specific (i.e., just looking up “Goodyear Eagle” isn’t specific enough), so I’ll have to check out that data the next time I remember to look up my specific tires.
What kind of car? I know that Subaru tells you that if you change one tire, you have to change them all for some reason. Or at least that’s what my neighbor told me and he’s a fanatical researcher when it comes to buying cars.
