Spraying off mountain bikes.

Factual Questions
1

I always see the other guys out on the mountain trails spraying the mud off their bikes after they are done. Now, this seems like the obvious thing to do. However, i began thinking about this, since the very thing they are doing to avoid a malfunctioning bike is actually bad for it in itself. Water = Rust, right?

Most of the time that my bike gets muddy, everyone tells me to spray it off, but I never do. I see the mud on the bike the next day… it is waterless powder that flakes off when i merely touch it. It seems so harmless to my bike! Also, spraying it off washes off all the lubricant off too. Since i don’t wash my bike, i have oil on there from months ago, making for excellent protection. Washing it off would make me have to create a new coat of oil everytime out, which is not as impenetrable as an old, settled-in coat.

Ok. What do you think would cause more weathering and wear to my bike?

  1. Leave the approximately 50% of the moving parts of my bike covered with mud and keep the old trusty coat of oil, or
  2. Drench 100% of the moving parts of my bike off, and expose 100% of my bike to dangerous, rust-producing water, while washing the old coat of oil off.

The obvious answer is 2, but I am challenging the popular vote here. This is not a matter of life and death, but I would love to get some expert back-up on this question. This is what my brother and I call Microanalyzation, which is how most problems such as this are solved. Thanks.

2

I have not checked, but i am assuming here that the next day there would still be water on the bike that was sprayed off, but the unsprayed bike would be dry dirt. I should probably do a little experiment, but i will not be going back out until this weekend.

3

Hmmm… I’m a road racing guy from many years back.

Here’s my personal maintenance regime.

At home, I have a bike stand like the ones you see in bike shops. It allows you to keep your bike off the ground at chest height - which makes maintenance way more comfortable.

Every time I finish a ride - which is never less than 30 miles - I perform the following…

I have large bag of rags which I buy from the local St Vincent de Paul shop - they’re basically recycled t-shirts. I place my bike in the bike stand and then I use yesterday’s “buffing rag” as today’s “primary cleaning” rag. I douse it in kerosene and I work from the top downwards. I go over the entire bike working towards the derrailleurs and chainrings last of all. I never use anything OTHER than kerosene. I use this rag, lastly of all, to wipe the chain free of major particulate matter. I then throw that rag into a rubbish bin.

I then grab a clean rag, and I go over the bike a 2nd time with a buffing rag - again, doused in kero - but not as much this time - again, from the top down. I put that “buffing rag” on my bench to use the next time after I finish a ride.

Lastly, I spray a quick bit of WD40 on the bits which need it. And once a week, a few drops of oil on the chain.

This takes about 8 to 10 minutes and it might seem like I’m being fussy, but here’s what I’ve found… kerosene is the perfect cleaning agent - it both cleans, and protects your bike from future muck. Also, my bike is ALWAYS spotless for the next time I use it - and that’s a great thing.

4

Mountain bikes are pretty weather resistant and can be sprayed off. Some parts incorporate weather-proof seals, and large bolts are heavily greased during assembly to prevent rust and seizure. You don’t want to spray water with any force directly at bearings, but even if water gets in, you can always take them apart, clean and re-grease them or have the bike shop do it. After you spray, go over the bike with a towel and re-lube the chain. Lube moving parts and cables on a semi-regular basis. This should be sufficient to prevent rust. You don’t want to keep the bike dirty - especially the chain - that needs to be cleaned and lubed between each ride to keep the rest of the drive train working properly.

Have you ever posted on MTBR.com? That is the definitive mountain biking info site. Anything you need to know from building to riding.

5

Here in So Cal I have more of an issue with dust build up on my bike.
But when I do ride in the mud, I clean it off that afternoon. Relube the bits that are necessary

6

If I may be permitted to make some rather immature ad hominem attacks for a GQ question for a moment…

NO, NO, NO, you’re ALL WRONG!!!

First of all, fuel, yes, you should at least wipe down your bike after you ride it; mud contains water, water which will in turn rust your bike blah- blah- blah, and water will stay longer in mud than water simply sitting on the surface of the bike. But because most of your components are stainless steel anyway, rust really isn’t such a concern beyond some slight cosmetic issues on the heads of screws etc. If fact, the only rust which you really need to be concerned about is if you get water in your frame. Make sure that you always put screws in unused water bottle holes etc. Regarding the oil, a simple rinse down with water will not remove a coat of lubricant on your chain. In fact, a number of lube makers make lubricants that are specifically low-maintenance and extra-waterproof. Since you sound like a semi-casual rider, look into one of those lubes like White Lightning. Other lubes are designed to be replaced more often, such as Tri-Flow.

But again, rust isn’t your primary concern. It’s not the water, it’s the dirt. Those tiny, jagged little pieces of dust which will seep into everything and destroy it. Your pedal spindle, your bottom bracket, your hubs, your headset, your derailleurs, your cable housing, your brakes, your shifters, FRICKEN EVERYTHING MAN! Look at the friendly guarantee in the back of a tube of Phil Wood grease.

“Will last until contaminated by entry of dirt.”

So, no, I don’t think you need to worry about rust, but a lot of dirt hanging around on your bike will gradually damage it.

Boo Boo Foo, been smokin’ da crack too!

Yes’ you’re right about cleaning your bike vigilantly, and old t-shirts are good too, but I disagree with the other stuff you said.

Kerosene? I’ve never heard of using it before, although I think it’s probably a mistake when you can get a 2-liter bottle of Performance Clean Safe for $4, and use that bottle for over 2000 miles (personal experience). I don’t know that Kerosene is specifically that bad for a bike, but why use it when specially designed cleansers are available from your local friendly bike retailer for cheap. No, you can’t use it for homemade napalm, and it probably won’t get you as high if you snuf it, but let’s think priorities here people.

Also, I think that wiping down a derailleur every single ride is a little excessive, especially because it isn’t a “power-train” component, but to each his own.

What I absolutely disagree with you on is the use of WD-40. It’s a penetrant that displaces and dissolves real lubricant. It has no place on a bike. Evil. Evil!!!

7

Or…

what zwaldd said.

8

thanks guys for the site and advice! i frikkin’ love mountain biking! and for the record there is nothing casual about the way i ride a mountain bike, other than i wear a cowboy hat instead of a helmet. i dare those trails to take me! Markham Park rules!

wd-40 is indeed evil. white lightning, i’ll try it out. i think the ket here is a lube that will not wash off.

thanks again.

9

I only use White Lightening during the summer when it is relatively dry, and on my road bike which doesn’t go out in the rain. On the MTB during the wet months (basically September thru to May) I use something hardier such at Pedros. I use a bucket and brush to wash it instead of a hose to prevent forcing water past the seals. It’s pretty filthy right now, but since it’s titanium, rust isn’t a factor.

10

Mud is just liquid dirt.

Would you rather have rust-causing water that will drip off and dry, or would you rather seal it on there with a gloopy muck that will never leave?

If you’re really worried, your PAINT should take care of most areas of your bike-- just hose off your drive train, and any cables near junctions (eg. running under your bottom bracket, brake levers, etc…) and re-lube as necessary.

11

Mate? Getting a bit personal aren’t ya?

For your reference - I’m no idiot here.

I rode for Australia in the Road Race, AND the 4 x 100 km Teams Time Trial in the Los Angeles Olympics, 1984. We came 7th with a time of 2:02:07

I also rode in two Commonwealth Games and 3 World Championships.

How many Olympics have you been in?

I have one particular old racer which goes all the way back to the World Championships in Colorado in 1986 - still immaculate. What’s that? 17 years almost? Exquisite Campagnolo “Record” gear all over. I’d say that makes me more than qualified thank you.

I still have 5 bikes to this day - all immaculate. No crack smoking involved thank you.

12

From the standpoint of general safety, Boo Boo Foo, I do hope you’re not storing any number of those kerosene-soaked rags in that rubbish bin. Oily rags are one of the few things in this world which will spontaneously combust. You’d do much better to let it dry out before thowing it away.

13

keferr: can you get pedros in a store anywhere? i went to the website and it didn’t mention anything other than online ordering.