Both of my last two boyfriends raved about the city (but always had something better to do when I wanted to go), eBay’s been very good to me this month, my local weather sucks, and New Orleans is one of those places I want to visit before I die. Now seems like as good a time as any. My schedule for the next six weeks or so is flexible, so if there are any special events I shouldn’t miss, I can arrange the rest of the trip around them. No, I’m not interested in attending during Mardi Gras.
Safety is my key concern. I’m well aware of the city’s reputation, and the post-Katrina disruptions. I realize that no place is 100% safe, but I’d like to err on the side of caution. I’m an unimposing woman with some obvious physical limitations who will be traveling alone, gazing at a street map, and probably (hopefully) distracted by bags full of old treasures. I’d rather miss the Holy Grail than wind up mugged, or worse.
My primary interest is antiquing. I’m not the high end, “Chippendale furniture and 18thC crystal chandelier” type dealer/collector, more the “sifting through gobs of 20thC ceramic figures looking for unrecognized treasures” type. What I saw of The Black Butterfly in a recent article looked just about dead-on perfect, as would any generic multi-dealer “we have a little bit of anything” mall.
Any additional recommendations for good modern collectibles shops, and off-the-wall bookstores (especially those specializing in good used/remaindered books, or specialty books) would also be most welcome. I wouldn’t mind a good comic book shop, preferably geared more to the indie/arthouse crowd, too.
So, what are the best shops to visit, hotels to stay, and methods for traveling around the city? What should a first-time visitor, especially one with my interests, know?
I’m not an antique-er (no place to store the stuff right now, alas), but I was recently in NOLA and spent a lot of time at used book stores. If you happen to be into French language books, Arcadian Books on Orleans Ave. is excellent (though I put a big dent in the Medieval/Renaissance shelf). The proprietor receives used books from France on a fairly regular basis. I also visited Beckham’s Bookshop on Decatur Street, which is huge, with a lot of fiction and history books. I also hit the Librairie Bookshop on Chartres, and although it is not as big as Beckham’s, I was impressed by the number of scholarly books on hand. The used bookstores appear to be quite organized, and any of the owners will be able to guide you to people who focus on comic books and music.
If you like perfumes, there are two perfumers on Royal Street–Bourbon Parfums and Hove. Bourbon sells fans (but they aren’t antique as far as I know), and I believe that both places sell ornate perfume bottles (again, as far as I know, they are not necessarily collectible, but you could always ask).
Keep in mind that sometimes, particularly on weekdays, hours of operation are more of a suggestion than anything else, especially as closing time nears. Do not be surprised to find places closing 30 minutes (or earlier) before the listed hours. (Heck, I tried to go to Starling Books twice (and as far as I know, it’s not closed) and was denied both times.)
Now for the other stuff. New Orleans can get really expensive, depending on your budget–I am a grad student and I did have to work to make my dollar stretch (my trips to the city have been for conferences–fortunately, in one case, all of my expenses were covered, and in another, I received help with my hotel). There are city landmark hotels like the Monteleone and Le Pavillon, but those are obviously not going to be your least expensive options. I have been told that the Monteleone is overrated (though they do have the famous carousel bar), but I have never stayed there. On my first visit to NOLA, I stayed at Le Pavillon and had a marvelous time (this was March '05). It’s in the hotel district, which is comfortable walking distance to the Quarter, but not in the midst of the racket. On my most recent trip, I stayed in the Country Inn and Suites and the Intercontinental. Honestly, I preferred the former, especially considering the price difference, but there are a ton of options. Others can provide further comment.
As for food, if you don’t have someone else footing the bill, the prospect of elite NOLA dining can be daunting if you’re not willing or able to budget a LOT for dinner (if you have the ability to do so, then there are few places better to do so than NOLA). I hope that someone local can come and talk about good, non-tourist trap places that don’t cost a ton like Antoine’s (I was taken here on my first visit and quite enjoyed it, but some people feel has really started slipping) /Galatoire’s/Stella/etc., because this was the only semi-disappointing part of my last trip…we sort of ended up eating dinner at the passable, but probably not best value for the $$$ restaurants on Decatur St. close to Jackson Square because we just didn’t know where to go, and everyone kept on recommending really expensive restaurants.
Fortunately, lunch is not so much a problem. A lot of the top-flight places have more reasonable lunch menus and then, of course, there’s Cafe Du Monde. Go. Eat. Love. (But you’ve been told about this, I am sure.)
Exactly what I came in to mention. Wonderful place.
I’ve not been to N.O. in years and never knew it well but certainly always did enjoy the walk down Royal Street in the Quarter because of the concentration of antique shops.
I hope you’ll come down and enjoy. Please bring some good weather, as it’s been cloudy and cold for over a week.
As far as safety is concerned, advice to tourists remains the same as always. Stay out of dark, unpopulated areas at night and unpopulated rough looking areas during the day. Keep your wits about you. Don’t accept rides from strangers. While crime does happen in tourist areas, it’s usually confined to pickpockets and non-violent events such as someone taking an unattended purse. Sadly, the city does have a reputation for violent crime, but this is largely confined to neighborhoods well off the tourist path and is drug, turf, and gang related. Perpetrators typically know their victims. The odds of your falling prey to anything like that are very very slim, unless you purposely go out looking for crack.
With regards to hotels, the Financial district is home to some nice places, such as the previously mentioned Le Pavillion. I have hosted two conferences at the Monteleone in the Quarter and have always been pleased with their service and quality. Another hotel worth checking out is the Pontchartrain on St. Charles Avenue near the Garden District. Further upriver is the Hampton Inn on St. Charles, where my parents stay when they come to town. If you like quaint, check out the Parkview Guesthouse on St. Charles by Tulane University and Audubon Park. Friends run the Mandevilla Bed and Breakfast if you prefer something homey.
Will you be driving and have your own car, or will you be on foot and/or using taxis? Unfortunately, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line is out of commission for at least another year, so getting around Uptown is more difficult for those without wheels. If you don’t have a car, I’d try to stay in the Quarter or in the Financial district. The city bus system is safe, but routes are curtailed and the schedule is mainly a suggestion. You can get a three day visitour pass at most hotels. One-way rides are $1.25. www.norta.com. Taxis can get expensive, but there are plenty out there and they’re fairly well regulated.
As for shops, the French Quarter is always popular, but be sure to enquire about the Warehouse District (art, mainly) and it’s definitely worth your while to get out to Magazine Street (www.magazinestreet.com). It is absolutely chock-full of places such as you describe. Roughly 8 miles worth, so wear comfortable shoes. Parking is relatively easy and the neighborhood on both sides of the street is generally safe several blocks in each direction.
Restaurants - - Vincent’s on St. Charles (upriver past Audubon Park) is one of the best Italian restaurants in the city. My wife and I can eat there for about $50.00, including wine. Another favorite is Dick and Jenny’s on Tchoupitoulas near Napoleon. I don’t know if Mandina’s on Canal has reopened yet or not, but it’s a great neighborhood creole place. Jaques Imo’s on Oak Street is ever popular. All of these places serve great food at reasonable prices. Gallatoires, Antoine’s, Tujaques, Commander’s Palace, and other old standards still serve great food, but they are much more expensive than the alternatives I mentioned. Don’t leave town without getting beignets at Cafe du Monde and a muffaletta sandwich from Central Grocery on Decatur street (across from Cafe du Monde and downriver about 2 blocks).
Most people in New Orleans love to see people walking around with a tourist map and would be ever so pleased to help you find your way. Pre-Katrina, tourism fueled the economy here and we need folks to come in and help with the recovery.
Feel free to send me a message or email if you want to know more.
Don’t know anything about antiquing, but I’d recommend killing two birds with one stone eating at Port of Call on Esplenade (nothing New Orleans-y about the food, but the burgers are too good to not try, plus it’s reasonably priced). Try the Monsoon if you’re a drinker.
When you’re done, Kaboom Books, a nice little used store is a block away on Dauphine (I think that’s the street name). I know the owner is leaving fairly soon, so it may not be there when you make it here unfortunately.
I have some friends in antiquing, so I’ll check with them when I’m less busy (Friday).
I’d definitely try Magazine Street before I ventured into the Quarter. In my experience, the shops there will have more of what you’re looking for, and the prices tend to be more reasonable.
-Lil
I’ve never liked antique shops for, well, shopping for antiques. The odds of finding a unrecognized treasure have substantially lessened in the years since Antiques Roadshow. Most people who have a shop are savvy enough to have books and other resources for researching items, and what is offered has already probably been picked over by sharp eyes. What* are *increased are your chances of buying a reproduction erroneously labled as real. (Sometimes those books don’t give enough detail to pick out those little tell-tale signs.)
Your best bet is almost always yard sales, estate sales and those little “junk shops” where the proprieter has just tossed stuff in a pile.
You guys are angels! Thanks so much for the great recommendations. Now I’m torn between waiting a bit so I can afford to fit everything in, or planning multiple trips. As impatient as I’m feeling, probably the latter. Almost everyone I know who has visited NOLA says it’s their favorite place to visit. Maybe it’ll become mine too!
Ivorybill, I’m from Chicago, so the best I can promise weather-wise is to leave the snow and winds at home.
Well, actually, that might have benefits for some antique buyers.
If you’re buying antique furniture because you like the idea of having something old or just like the look of antiques, buying a water-damaged piece of furniture might be a practical, money-saving way to furnish your home. If you’re not buying for investment and aren’t concerned about the piece retaining its authenticity, buying a damaged item and refinishing it can be a great idea.
