All my kids (girls, 7 1/2, 10. and 11 1/2) have learned to play chess. At least, they know how the pieces move. I’m struggling how to teach them that chess is a game of strategy, not just moving the pieces and capturing whatever you can.
Once they have the basic moves down and aren’t droping pieces get them a basic opening book and set them up on Yahoo chess. Another good idea would be to walk them through chess problems, I like the ones in Chess Life, showing them pins, mating nets, forks, cutting support etc.
Note: though i’m good at playing chess, i’ve never had much luck teaching.
Here’s what the hub says (and even if I do say so myself, he’s an excellent chess coach; his kids have won the state team championship for K-8 every year he’s taught them):
"Have him get the book, ‘Play Better Chess’ by Yasser Seirawan. It’s one of the best texts out there for kids that age. The dad will probably have to read it first and relate the ideas to the youngest—the book will be too advanced for her.
Primarily, they need to know the basic checkmates; K+Q vs. K & K+R vs. K; the relative strength and value of the pieces (Q=9, R=5, B=3, Kn=3, P=1, K=infinite); the concept of Center Control; basic tactical themes like pins, forks, skewers, etc.; the concept of Mobility or Space, putting Rooks on open files and pawns on the
opposite color of one’s Bishop, etc.; the concept of Safety—castling to keep the King safe; the idea of Tempo, not wasting time with useless moves; and lastly, the concept of Pawn Structure—how certain exchanges or poor moves can weaken and isolate pawns. http://www.chessopolis.com is a good resource. There are copies of the CD ‘Maurice Ashley Teaches Chess’ available dirt cheap in the internet. I think I got
mine at http://www.incredibledeals.com."
With my nephew and niece I like to tell them the reasoning I use behind every move I make, and ask them why they make the moves they make. Look out to teach forks, discovered checks and similar. Remember to fall for any good plans they make. Go to a book store and look through the childrens chess books, some of them are incredibly bad, find one you think your kids will like.
In my opinion, Strategy in chess is a lot slower to develop than Tactics. Until the understanding of Pins, Forks, Skewers, Double Attacks, Double Checks, Discovered Attacks, Discovered Checks, Removing The Guard, The Overworked Piece, Breaking Communications, Sacrifices, Back Rank Mates, Pawn Promotion Combinations, and the like, are fully grasped and available in one’s thinking, the whole realm of Strategy is too featureless to relate to.
Of all the chess books I own, a little book called “Winning Chess” by Irving Chernev and Fred Reinfeld (dates from the 1950’s), has been the best book on Tactics I’ve found.
The good thing about the book is that it teaches tactics in a very dynamic way, and in a way that a child can grasp and appreciate.
Once the kid has been through that book, the advance into Strategy will have a better foundation.
At that point, another fine old book by Hans Kmoch, called “Pawn Power” is a great help, as is another by I.A. Horowitz called “Point Count Chess.”
These books ought to be available from the U.S Chess Federation (they have a website) if you can’t get them elsewhere. The three books ought to run you less than $30.
Having been tought chess by my father who played and won at tournament level I can only remember the five basic rules which you must live by. They are:
When making a move does it…
Serve a USEFUL purpose?
Is the moving piece protected?
Can the moving piece be pinned?
Can the moving piece be x-rayed?
Can the moving piece cause a fork?
Armed with these basic rules you can then develop your strategy. Its important to understand where pieces are at their strongest POTENTIAL position. Knights are stronger in the middle of the board where their number of movement squares are greater. Pawns must rely and support each other. Rooks, Queen, and Bishops are best used as support for other pieces and/or to cover open ranks.
As for my learning the game. I had it taught through continuous defeats at my father’s hand. But he taught me where things went sour for me and offered other moves I could have taken. My brother, dad and I when we get together usually bring down the chess board after dinner and play several games while drinking cognac and kibitzing.
The strongest part of learning chess is to have the ability to picture the board in one’s head. By this I mean litterally keep track of every piece on the board and play the game in your head. We have played mental chess on a number of occasions. Its difficult at first but with practice one can master it.
I used this method of play in a few tournaments I was in. I would make my move, stop the clock and wait about 30 seconds for my opponent to move. If he did not move I would get up leave the room and watch through a 1 way mirror into the room. It frustrated many of my opponents to no end to have an empty seat in front of them and no way to determine my next move from lack of body ques. Now I don’t do this in a friendly game but it sure gave me the edge on the tournament level. I could do this because I kept the board in my head and pretty much knew what movement options my opponent had before him.
Another interesting game you can play with chess is Kriegspiel. This requires 3 boards and 3 sets of pieces. One board for each player and one board for the umpire. Each player faces AWAY from the other with the umpire’s board in between and to each ones back. Each player makes moves as normal and the umpire keeps record of each player’s move on his board. The trick is that when a player moves a pawn the umpire only tells the opponent that the player moved a pawn. Its left up to the player to figure out which pawn his opponent moved and place his best guess on his board. Likewise when a player moves a piece (regardless of which piece) the umpire informs the other player that his opponent has moved a piece NOT which one. The umpire has to know how to play chess real well for this to work. Also when a player makes a move the umpire has to imform that player if the move can actually be made based on the umpire’s board. This then causes the players to rely on “scouting” with pieces to determine where his opponent’s pieces are.
This game was used to instruct Pre WW German army officers on combat and deployment. It was required of all German officers to know how to play this game and their ability at winning was a determinating factor in their subsequent promotions.
I might add this one thing. My father in his day played and won many tournaments but the one tournament I remember was the Mississippi Open where Bobby Fisher came to play. My father played him to a draw twice. I didn’t really know who Bobby Fisher was at the time since I was about 7 yrs. old but I did realize that my father had accomplished something by the crowd which had gathered to watch him play.
The best chess instructional book I have seen is Logical Chess by Irving Chernev. He goes through lots of international games, move by move, explaining what is being done and why.
Chess For Tigers by Simon Webb is a good book about different styles of play and how to trip up an opponent by playing a game that doesn’t suit them. Even if a little advanced reading it may promote some thinking.
Although I had a few lessons from a Grand Master I learnt most of my chess from Capablanca, Fischer and Alekhine. The method I was taught was to play games with the players moves covered up and try to work out what Fischer would play next. You earn a point if you’re right. Don’t start at the first move, play the standard opening ascribed to the game. After playing “your” player’s move uncover the opponents move and play it, then work out “your” player’s next move.
For a very long time I played Capablanca’s games. I would have a board set up with a position for which I may not choose a next move for days. It’s very restful to have this handy little conundrum to sit down with for a few minutes and ponder. Practicing like this gives you a real feel for the player you are pretending to be, after a while you feel that you are thinking like them. If you can get good annotated games you will often be informed why your choices are wrong.
Chessgames.com has a vast searchable database of games that can be played out on screen with the click of a mouse. They seem to have every game played by most noted players.
An x-ray attack and a skewer are two ways of saying the same idea. They’re analogous to a pin but work in an opposite way.
In a pin, the attacking long-range piece (bishop, rook, queen) has two opposing pieces on the same rank, file, or diagonal. The nearer piece is either prevented from moving by having the king behind it, or has it effectively prevented from moving by having a more valuable piece behind it.
The x-ray or skewer has the more valuable piece foremost, so that once it moves, the attack on the weaker piece is exposed.
Hi, I’m a full-time school chess teacher (it’s a great job!).
There’s a lot of advice already - here are some comments:
“Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess”
I haven’t read it, but I doubt he wrote it (Larry Evans wrote ‘Fischer’s 60 memorable games’). Also top players are not automatically top coaches.
“Find someone to play with them who’s good enough to beat them consistently. If they’re interested, or at all competitive, they’ll learn strategy.”
Practice is very good. However nobody likes losing consistently, especially children. Try for someone slightly better than them (and remember that computer programs are available to play at a moment’s notice)
“Have him get the book, ‘Play Better Chess’ by Yasser Seirawan. It’s one of the best texts out there for kids that age. The dad will probably have to read it first and relate the ideas to the youngest—the book will be too advanced for her.
Primarily, they need to know the basic checkmates; K+Q vs. K & K+R vs. K; the relative strength and value of the pieces (Q=9, R=5, B=3, Kn=3, P=1, K=infinite); the concept of Center Control; basic tactical themes like pins, forks, skewers, etc.; the concept of Mobility or Space, putting Rooks on open files and pawns on the
opposite color of one’s Bishop, etc.; the concept of Safety—castling to keep the King safe; the idea of Tempo, not wasting time with useless moves; and lastly, the concept of Pawn Structure—how certain exchanges or poor moves can weaken and isolate pawns.”
Again I haven’t read the book (UK resident) but Yasser is not only a top player but also a fine organiser and pleasant chap.
Certainly I agree with everything above (except that pawn structure, while vital, is much more difficult than the other concepts to grasp.)
I would add that showing them simple endings (e.g. K+P v K; K+2P v K+P) is both instructive and easy to understand. Of course certain moves are better in the opening, but it’s hard to see why till you have years of experience. Once you master basic checkmates and endings, you know everything on that topic.
“In my opinion, Strategy in chess is a lot slower to develop than Tactics. Until the understanding of Pins, Forks, Skewers, Double Attacks, Double Checks, Discovered Attacks, Discovered Checks, Removing The Guard, The Overworked Piece, Breaking Communications, Sacrifices, Back Rank Mates, Pawn Promotion Combinations, and the like, are fully grasped and available in one’s thinking, the whole realm of Strategy is too featureless to relate to.”
Absolutely. Tactics can be studied individually until the necessary patterns behind them are understood. There is a straightforward answer to a tactical position - and it’s fun!
So do show tactics, but remember that you reach a winning tactical position through strategy. This takes much longer to master, but is a fundamental part of the game.
"Having been tought chess by my father who played and won at tournament level I can only remember the five basic rules which you must live by. They are:
When making a move does it…
Serve a USEFUL purpose?
Is the moving piece protected?
Can the moving piece be pinned?
Can the moving piece be x-rayed?
Can the moving piece cause a fork?"
There are no rules in chess, merely guidelines. (For any rule, I can construct a position where you need to break it.)
However guidelines are certainly useful to beginners.
I use:
Openings - develop all your pieces / control the centre / castle into safety
Middle Game - try to have a plan / check your move isn’t a blunder
Like any activity, your children should enjoy themselves and learn good practice.
Chess players must be polite (shake hands before and after each competitive game).
Always play ‘touch move’, even in friendly games. Teach them chess notation, so they can remember their games, and analyse them later.
As most players are male (shame!), feel free to find a female role-model (e.g. Judit Polgar) to encourage them.
Chess is an excellent way to learn concentration, self-discipline and reliance, use of memory, use of time - particularly under pressure.
Interestingly, most of these traits will help them at school!
It is played all over the World, needs little expense and is available on both computers and the Internet.
I have played all standards (from beginners to Kasparov - in a simul!) and made friends for life.
The game is as deep as you want, and drugs don’t help you.
I trust your children enjoy their introduction to one of life’s great mysteries!
I have no idea if Fischer actually wrote it, but I wasn’t recommending it for the name. Essentially, the book spends a few dozen pages talking about the basics of moving. The rest of the book consists of several hundred diagrams of different chess setups and situations. A page shows you a game and asks, “What’s the best move for Black?” The next page has the answer, with an explanation, and sometimes an explanation why some moves that might appear to be good actually aren’t so hot. Then, you see another board, another problem.
I liked it when I read it way back when; it’s hard to say if it’ll suit you until you look at it, but I found it well suited to my learning style.
Fair enough - I was being cautious because most top players are offered money simply to put their name on such books.
I assumed that it was a best seller purely because Fischer was the best ever US player.
I’m glad you found it useful, and meant no implied criticism.
I think there has been a lot of good advice in this thread. I’d only add:
Don’t go overboard. The most fun in chess is playing the game. Let them play at their own level and learn at their own pace. If they are disinclined towards “schooling”, just let them play and make mistakes and learn from them.
If they are inclined to study, then I agree that the next step is tactics. Kids delight in “pulling one” on their opponents. One of the most entertaining books on tactics is Fred Reinfeld’s book, Chess Traps: Pitfalls And Swindles.
The other piece of advice is to teach them how to record their games so they can go over them with others after the game. Their are four phases to a chess game: the opening, the middle game,the endgame, and the analysis. I had friends that excelled at winning that last phase, regardless of the outcome of the game.
Strategy? For me, the way I truly started learning strategy was through playing and post-game analysis. The book learning came after I had a foothold on the concept that strategy was the most important part of the game and if I studied and learned more from experts, I’d get a lot better at the game.
For a very early player, my favorite tips are Castle early and Queen late. Don’t wait until you are forced to castle defensively, and don’t introduce your queen whet it can become your opponent’s target of sustained attack. Keeping these in mind will give your child a huge jump against other beginnners.
A little off-topic for the OP, the “real” Kriegspiel we used to play used the rules:
Umpire only mentions “White/Black has moved”, or “White/Black captures on [square]”, or “White/Black gives check [on the rank/file/long diagonal/short diagonal/by a Knight]” - or possible a combination of these. The umpire can also say “Illegal” if the move attempt is illegal. The player must keep trying moves until he finds a legal one.
A player can ask “Any?” before his move, which means “Can any of my Pawns make a capture”? The umpire replies either “No” or “Try” (in which case at least one capture attempt must be made). The umpire can reply “Nonsense” if the player has no Pawns left.
These rules make the game much more challenging. A good idea is for the umpire to record the moves and the players can look (and laugh) at them after the game.
It’s important to keep count of the pieces captured - even if you’re not sure what you captured. Obviously - if you’ve captured 15 pieces - you know that your opponent only has a King left.