I live about 20 miles from downtown. I agree with and will compliment Elmwood and the others on their comments so far. I lived in Center City Philadelphia years ago and almost a year in Washington DC, and a summer in San Francisco so I have idea about the feel of places. I came back here and will probably stay for the rest of my life.
Quality of life.
There is a long standing area meme that instead of six degrees of separation, in Buffalo it’s 2. You know somebody who knows somebody. I’ve been to a football game amidst 70,000 people and am standing in the mens’ room next to a guy I went to high school with 20 years ago, in the parking lot run into 2 or 3 other people I knew over the years. Just weird, but cozy and cool too, a typical day.
I’ll stay on sports for a minute. The Buffalo Bills haven’t been to the playoffs since 3 popes ago, but still the fans fill the place. UB Bulls (University of Buffalo) just moved up to division 1A (I think that’s what it called.) The Sabres are a favorite of mine. The waiting list for season tickets is over 10,000 names. Terry Pegula the new owner is building a new 2 rink complex across the street from the arena. Spending $140 million of his own money to do it. It will be the only complex of it’s kind attached to an NHL franchise. Expecting tournaments and youth leagues to flourish. And by the way, the local Jesuit College, Canisus, gets to use it free as a new home rink. Last Friday night I sat 4 rows above the dugout at the AAA Bisons game. An affiliate to the Toronto Blue Jays. I’ve been to at least a dozen Major League cities to see games. This was 9/10ths the experience for a $12 ticket. A very pretty little downtown stadium.
Sports not your thing? The Buffalo Philharmonic just played at Carnage Hall again and sold it out. The zoo has a pair of polar bear cubs getting their cute little snouts on TV every other night. Next weekend is Curtain Up! A black tie gala followed by over 20 different plays going on in every venue the city has to squeeze into. Shakespeare in the park all summer. Free, bring a blanket and a bottle of wine, hang out. The Albright-Knox art museum just poached a new director from Finland (or somewhere Nordic) who is lending and borrowing some extraordinary exhibits.
Driving. You can get just about anywhere in 20 minutes. Rush hour? Add 5 minutes. Are there stupid people? Sure. But after driving a cab part time in Philadelphia, commuting in Washington, motorcycling in Boston (shudder) and a truck and oversized trailer through Atlanta I’m not a timid driver. Around here, I’ve seen people come to a stop to wave others into traffic with a smile and a wave. I can not recall one story of any road rage involving a fight or let alone a shooting. Might have happened but I really can’t think of any examples. Polite damn people. Age too. Demographics are leaning heavy toward grey hair, so that is a factor.
I can’t speak for the city schools but my suburban district education was pretty damn good. (Blame any syntax or spelling errors here to the beer…) I did 4 years in the Navy and met a lot of people from a lot of places, that’s my metric for my education quality. Why Obama came here 2 weeks ago to give a speech at UB was because its tuition is below average as is student debt. Above average is the graduation rate and percentage of grads employment.
Food, oh my Og the food. Every weekend all summer long there are festivals and church lawn fetes you can gorge yourself on. Ethnic specialties of all persuasions. What I can’t stress enough are the local restaurants. I think with some planning you could eat out every night for a year and never go to chain. There are about 3 or 4 starbucks in the region I can think of, can’t get a foothold. Domino’s pizza tried once or twice, even Pizza Hut has closed a bunch of their locations. The one Quisno’s I knew of just folded. The local corner Mom and Pop places are just so many times better. The Anchor bar for wings (just wings mind you, never ever call the Buffalo wings. Buffalos’ don’t have wings) is only open because of the tourists. The little gin mill (local term for corner bar) around the corner from my house has wings that would have people lined up for around the block anywhere else in the country. Here they are average.
Taxes are high, yes, BUT. Talking to a friend from Phoenix we compared a lot of things. His property tax is lower, but what they pay in car registration made my jaw hit the floor. Other fees and taxes come out all sorts of ways, the governments just do it different, and I’m convinced it’s all a wash. Just perspective on whether it’s the right hand or left hand taking it in. You already are looking at how much more house you can get for your money here. I’m in my early 40’s and have friends moving back here for all over the country all gushing about the cost of living being so much lower here.
I realize this has turned into a love letter but it’s home and I gotta stick up for it. There are cranes on the horizon in the city. A lot of old buildings being rehabbed, developers taking a tax credit if it’s there, but spending millions of their own to do a bulk of the work. It’s getting exciting.