Italian food is the best in Europe, the landscape is charming, the people are beautiful, and the art! the architecture! the climate! I spent a month in a garret apartment in Trento, province of Trentino, Sud Tyrrhol.
Unfortunately, that month was during the big heat wave of 2003. I couldn’t figure out where to buy an electric fan, so I sat in a cold bath in the evenings before I went to bed. It takes several months (so the Italians all said) to get a phone hooked up, so I used my cell phone (which is a world phone) at $1 a minute.
I worked at a government research institute, where I had internet access, but the firewall was crazy and prevented me from using any kind of chat program, and from accessing a hefty chunk of websites. There was an internet cafe with two laptops a person could pay to use–I did that several times a week.
Italians are charming when approached, but no one at work bothered to notice I existed–took them three days to find me a place to sit, three more to let me on the internet, and no one ever stopped by to chat or offer to have lunch with me. I was very lonely. Fortunately, the town has a university, and the university has English literature classes, so the bookstores had some novels in English. Unfortunately, the novels were all the kind one reads in English classes, and I the English major had already read all but three, on the shelf in the bookstore down the street. I read those three, while I was in Italy.
There was one laundromat in town, more than a mile from my apartment, and I hope you know that there aren’t any clothes dryers. Rather than drag wet clothes more than a mile through the city center, I boiled my laundry on the stovetop (I did find laundry soap especially for hand washing, in the little supermarket down the street) and hung it to dry–very very carefully so it didn’t wrinkle. I didn’t have an iron.
My apartment’s bathroom did not have a bidet. It also didn’t have a fixed shower, only a hand shower, and no shower curtain or rod for a shower curtain. After washing my hair (which I had to do every day, in the incredible heat), the bathroom floor was always completely flooded. Luckily, I found a mop in the corner of a storage room.
Italy is perpetually under construction, so there was jackhammering outside my apartment all day. Fortunately, this being Italy, it wasn’t for very many hours every day.
The first weekend I was there was followed by a bank holiday, on Monday. I had planned to buy some groceries on Saturday morning, but all the shops were closed then because of the holiday. Everything is of course closed on Sunday. Everything was of course closed on Monday. I ran out of food at home, and had to go into town to scrounge–luckily, one sidewalk cafe was open to cater to the German tourists. I ate there twice, and put bread in my purse to take home (doggie bag? What’s that?)
The bed in my apartment was the kind that has metal springs directly underneath the mattress–a little camp mattress, that sagged about three inches from edges to center. My back got progressively sorer throughout the month. The pillow was about an inch think. I folded up the blankets, that it was too hot to sleep under, and put them under the pillow to bulk it up.
I have posted all this because it’s these little irritating things that really surprised me, and really bothered me. Had I spent the month in a hotel, with a friend, it would have been heaven on earth.