I just found out that I’m going to Kenya! I’m going for work, not for a safari. I realized that the only images Kenya conjures up are of lions and zebras and warthogs, and not of Kenyan culture (other than the Maasai, who I’m unlikely to encounter). Anyone who’s been there, please share your impressions. I’ll probably stay in Nairobi for most of the trip. How modern is it? What’s the weather like this time of year? Mostly, I want to know about the people. Are they conservative or progressive? Are they friendly or reserved? Do they like music, dancing, and drinking or are social activities more family-oriented? You get the picture. Thanks!
Lucky you! Kenya is gorgeous! I spent several months there doing research in grad school. I was mostly in the bush, but we made a few trips to Nairobi. Here are some tips: Nairobi can be dangerous. Don’t walk around by yourself after dark, as muggings, especially of tourists are popular. (So this is diferent from big US cities?)
You won’t be able to find a lot of stuff in Nairobi stores you can in the US, like special soap, shampoos, etc. And there’s only one or two brands of toilet paper, and they are not the soft stuff. Also, don’t be surprised to see people doing things in the street that are illegal/impolite in the US. It’s perfectly okay to pee in public as long as you’re not facing traffic. You can drink a can of indigenous beer (not much in the way of imports, except Heineken and some occasional Budweiser, and the local stuff is very strong) on the street, toss your empty at your feet, and lay down by the roadside for a quick snooze without anybody much objecting. People will pick their nose publicly, and nobody cares, so if you feel the urge, indulge. You will also see people of the same sex holding hands in public- they are not gay. They are very good friends. Same-sex casual contact is acceptable and usual here, and you will be considered weird if you stare or ask stupid questions. Conversely, don’t flip out if a person of your gender touches you or holds your hand- this means you are a valued and trusted friend, so be flattered. Don’t stand with your hands in your pockets- this is considered rude.
On the streets, don’t ever, ever yell “Mwizi!” (‘thief’) unless you really, really mean it. Shouting this will cause all available locals to come rushing after the thief and they will mob him and start beating him. People have been killed this way. Also, expect to be propositioned by prostitutes. If you take advantage of their services, be extraordinarily careful- STD’s are rampant.
People in Kenya are generally very friendly and hospitable. They will want to welcome you to their country, and they will want to know about yours. Talking about one’s family is usual and very polite- always ask after someone else’s family, even if you’ve never met them. Most Kenyans speak English very well, but be prepared for more relaxed grammar and different slang. Knowing some Swahili will be helpful.
There are a lot of different ethnicities in Nairobi. There is a significant Muslim population, so you will see women in full swaddle. Non-Muslim locals also frown on opposite-sex touching or kissing in public. Be discreet. As for clothing, you need to be casual, but not underdressed. Shorts are great in the hot weather, but most Kenyans think they look stupid and childish- long pants are preferred anyway, due to insects and the sun. No tank tops, no low-cut necklines, no mini-skirts. The weather is usually very hot and dry, except in the rainy season, which starts in May, in which case it rains constantly. Don’t bother with an umbrella- nobody else does.
Traffic will be horrible- traffic laws are broken in a systematic way that you cannot learn unless you start now and practice for the next five years. Public transportation is crappy, but it’s about all that’s available.
Food will be a big hurdle. You may find goat on the menu. Try and make sure everything is cooked well. You may want to bring a little water filter with you as well. Nairobi water is okay, generally, but you won’t be used to it for a few months. Filter or boil. Street vendors are everywhere, and they’re cheap- you can get all your meals there if you want. You will be eating a lot of ugali, which is cassava bread. It’s good but bland. If you’re a woman, look for expat shops downtown to get stuff like make-up and menstrual supplies. You can bargain in the markets. Learn how or you will be continually ripped off. Also little kids will continually come up to you, smiling and asking questions. Be polite.
God, this has run on. Well, that’s all I can think of right now. Best of luck, and enjoy it- Kenya is really a wonderful place.
Thanks, ratty, that’s exactly the information I was looking for. I’ve traveled a lot in Latin America, so being in a developing country won’t be a shock to me. I’m only going for a couple of weeks, so I won’t need to worry about some of these issues. Everything I’m working on for my summer job relates to Africa, and I have a feeling I’m going to fall in love and want to go back.
Hi there (“Jambo” in Swahili); been to Kenya twice. Loved it enough that I’m sure I’ll go back over and over. Mostly didn’t spend a lot of time in Nairobi (more in the bush) but my recollection is that it is a reasonably modern city (it does after all get an international tourist trade), though there are some ‘slum’ areas that are shockingly impoverished. Watch out for ‘street boys’, urchins who may steal your camera (etc), and be wary of street transactions for goods, as this is a good opportunity for them.That said, the people are the best thing about Kenya. They are warm, friendly, kind, family-oriented, intelligent (whether or not formally educated)and many have a lovely sense of humor (usually a bit gentler &/or more subtle tha American). I met Masai in the bush who spoke more languages than I do (3) and are better-informed about global politics and social commentary &/or controversy. They love music and dancing (you must see the Masai dance and sing - indescribable what they do with their voices alone, no instruments), but drinking was not a big social event for them in the places I went. A beer or two seemed the extent of it (you should try Tuskers, the local lager). Naturally the wildlife is incredible, and I so recommend getting out to see it, even if for day trips… you can hit Giraffe Manor and some preserve/rescue places very near Nairobi center. Also, if you’re interested in local art/craft shopping, I’d suggest Utamaduni and the Kazuri beadworks, quite close by. We always eat at Jiconi (“Kitchen”) - once we met Cynthia Moss there (wrote ‘Elephant Memories’).
As for weather, Kenya is pretty equatorial in placement, so it’s pretty much a 12/12 day/night, with (for me, coming from Alaska) pretty abrupt sunsets. It is at an elevation in the range of 5,000 feet, so it tends to cool off pleasantly at night. I was theree in July of 98, but it was El Nino year so the weather was 'unseasonably’cool (which meant perfect for me, and cool for everyone else). I’d bring a jacket. Also prepare for rain if you’re there a long time… seasons are kind of wet vs dry rather than summer vs winter. You’ll want antimalarials and some vaccines (your M.D should be able to advise you.) My other visit was in October, when it was a drought; it was hot in the day but still cooled off nicely at night in general.
I so envy you this opportunity! If you get a chance to go to outlying parks, etc, my favorites in Kenya are the Samburu Game Reserve (stay at Intrepids if at all possible - totally charming), Lake Nakuru, the Masai Mara, The Ark (Aberdares Reserve) and Amboseli. Tanzania isn’t all that far away; if you have the chance, I’d go to the Serengeti, Tarangire and the Ngoro Ngoro Crater. All depends on how much free/vacation time you have. And funds, I guess. (a word on haggling at places where prices are not fixed: our general rule was to start at 25% of what they ask, and never go more than a third - and remember that they will walk away from you if the price is too low. They know what the value of the work is. Also, things like ball point pens, T-shirts (even the most basic undershirt type), used watches, etc, are fair game for barter.)
You might get the Kenya Rough Guide for handy info. Bear in mind my last visit was almost 2 years ago - not sure how/if things will have changed since 9/11.
Africa is the only place I have ever as an adult really lost all track of time. I could be somewhere for les than 24 hours and only be able to remember how long I’d been there by counting number of game drives. I am changed forever by it, in ways to subtle and delightful to describe. I hope you experience is as good!
Cool stuff!
This is neat-- we should have more threads about visiting really interesting places. I find the Hague very different, so I should ask someone for info night life on Ulan Bator.
I haven’t been to Nairobi since '89, but it was a fascinating place. Like mentioned above, be wary of your circumstances, and definitely don’t go out at night. A lady got mugged the first night I was there. DO NOT let the locals hanging out at the hotel sucker you into one of their “safari’s” If you can handle the steering wheel being on the wrong side (sorry Biba) you’re better off driving through the forest in your own vehicle. Oh, and the traffic circles…just close your eyes and gun it. :eek: Take a camera, and TONS of film, 'cos there’s a lot to see. If you can, don’t buy the trinkets at the hotel gift shops. If you can make it down to the market area, you can get cool stuff a lot cheaper than in the stores. Pilsner Lager’s were .60 a bottle at the Nairobi Hilton, and really potent. Enjoy your trip, and be safe.