Tell me about Seattle!

One that’ll peg you for sure: interstate I-5 is pronounced “eye five”, similarly, highway 520 is just called “520”- I’ve heard several CA transplants prefacing with “the”.

Once you’ve got those WA plates, do not, and I mean do not, unless there truly is an impending disaster, honk the horn.

Make sure you stock up on shorts- if the sun is out, put 'em on. It’s 35 degrees? So what- the sun’s out!

“The islands” means the San Juans, not Hawaii. Depending on where you are, “the water” is Puget Sound or Lake Washington. Remember the Olympic mountains are to the west, Cascades to the east; Mount Rainier is south, Mount Baker is north.

The “ship canal bridge” is on I-5, even though there are other bridges that cross the canal (Montlake, Fremont, Ballard, Aurora).

All I can think of off the top of my head…

We lived in Seattle and now live 145 miles east in central Washington. We are close enough to visit and enjoy the attractions and far enough away to enjoy a rural atmosphere. We have lived in Honolulu, San Francisco and Seattle as far as major cities go. San Francisco and Seattle are similar in things to do. The greater Seattle area is not as accepting of individuals doing their own individual thing as San Francisco is. Bellevue and Redmond are indeed boring and conformist.

I love Seattle. I moved here from California 4.5 years ago for college, and I hope I’ll never need to leave.

I just got my WA driver’s license a couple of months ago, and I never had any problems like OrcaChow described; I think the hatred has died down.

As for where to live… it sounds like you want to buy. I recommend renting for a while as you discover the city, so you can learn which neighborhoods you like. Each has its own personality. Then look for houses in or near the places you naturally gravitate toward. FWIW, I live in Queen Anne/Interbay, and my roommate and I pay $600/month for a little one-bedroom. But that includes cable, garbage, water, and maintenance. Interbay and Ballard are two of the cheaper neighborhoods.

I worked in Bellevue before I got laid off. The commute was a pain, but it’s just something you live with if your job is on the Eastside.

You’ll get the hang of living here pretty quickly. Just find yourself some natives – or at least some people who’ve been here a while – and imitate them. :wink:

Hey, smaft, did I ever honk at you? :slight_smile:

AudreyK, not all of us locals agree about that honking thing. Given the lazy and slack driving habits of many in the Puget Sound area, I (an anal driver who expects good driving habits from all) use my horn regularly. (What I mean by “lazy and slack driving habits” is that things like using turn signals, speeding up to merge on the freeway, and actually going forward when the light turns green are hard for some local drivers to manage.) As with discussing driving in any city, I think that any extended discussion about Seattle drivers should be a Great Debate. If someone wants to start the thread, I’ll chime in.

One thing about the weather that I’m not sure has been clarified: It doesn’t really rain that much in Seattle, but it’s cloudy a lot. Not so much wet as dim.

Locals don’t usually use umbrellas, especially casual dressers. And the local dress standard is very casual. My (Texan) parents are horrified each time they visit by the casual dress in my office and in the Seattle area in general. If I read correctly, you’re coming from Hawaii, so casual dress shouldn’t be a big adjustment for you.

If you need any info about the alternative side (nightclubs, after-hours clubs, gay culture, piercing stuff) of Seattle, lemme know. It looks like the regular stuff has already been covered.

To get up-to-date info about the local goings-on, check these out:
[ul][li]www.seattleinsider.com[/li][li]www.tourism.wa.gov/index2.asp[/li][li]www.seattle.citysearch.com[/li][li]www.seattletimes.com[/li][li]www.seattleweekly.com[/li][li]www.thestranger.com (the local alternative rag)[/li][li]Pantheon | No Site Detected (real-time traffic info; essential if you commute at all)[/li][li]http://transit.metrokc.gov/ (the site for the Metro bus system, if you’ll be using the bus)[/ul][/li]
Best wishes.

Jeyen

It seemed to die out, only to be replaced with a John Keister-hosted stripped-down version with few of the originals remaining. I haven’t watched it.

The series of prime-time specials, “Almost Live’s Guide to the Great Northwest,” were true classics. They should be required viewing for anyone planning to move to King County. They might be available on tape.

Wow, I never would have expected such a response for a thread that’s been up, oh, about 12 hours or so. Gotta give Audrey much credit for the idea.

Anyway, for the detail oriented, here’s a little more info that should help you all tell us how to have a good time in WA.

First off, admissions departments willing, I’ll be at Digipen (Redmond) getting an AS in video game programming/design, while Audrey’ll be at the University of Antioch (Seattle) getting her MS in psych. My cousin who lives and works up that way has an apartment in Bellevue that he rents out - a very nice sounding one bedroom* for $800 (I may or may not be getting the family discount), which is part of the reason why Audrey’s inquiring as to that apparently dull 'hood. OTOH, pending availability, we may be forced to find lodging elsewhere, so keep the suggestions coming.

As for transportation, I do have a car and Audrey should be getting her license before the move (see Audrey, told you it’d be a good idea), so that’s not too bad a problem. As for the Redmond/Bellevue - Seattle commute, well, one of us is going to be making it, so more info might be good. Thankfully, both of us are computer geeks so I could see either one (or both) of us taking refuge in our respective schools’ computer labs to wait out rush hour. Speaking of which am I safe in assuming morning rush hour is roughly 7-9:30 AM?

I guess I should also note, while I’m at it, that my car still has its Hawaii plates (I’m sure LA cops love that) and that I still have my HI license. Will that buy me any love until I get WA plates?

On a completely different note, how’s speedy internet access up there? (You see, I promised Audrey a nice, fatty Internet connection to help persuade her…) My current DSL ISP is Speakeasy (related to the Internet cafe Robot Arm mentioned?) which is based out of Seattle so I don’t foresee too much difficulty, but if there’s something better I’d be glad to hear about it.

As for recreation, I don’t know where Audrey got the idea that I wouldn’t be up for outdoorsy activities (because I practically living in front of my computer? Nah.), but backpacking sounds like a blast, and I’m pretty sure we’d both be into it. (I darn near ripped my leg off at the knee last time I tried skiing, however, so I share her ambiguity towards that particular activity.)

I think that’s pretty much it for now… And obfusciatrist, my WAG is ‘seh-keem’ though challenges of this type remind me too much of Hawaii’s Likelike Highway for me to put any confidence in it…

Again, thank you all for your time, help, and tips on how to not get lynched. :slight_smile:

*One bedroom, two beds. In case anybody was wondering. :wink:

Even though I’m a Washingtonian by birth, I was a dry-sider (Eastern half of the state) for 26 years till I moved Seattle way. Alas! Almost Live is no longer on the air (and it WAS very helpful in giving me the necessary “insider” info I needed to blend in.) However, Channel 7 (KIRO) has The John Report at 11:30 on Saturday nights, done by many of the same people who were on Almost Live, so maybe that will help.

RE: the transit system, by all means go by bus as much as possible (traffic IS terrible here!). I sold my car when I moved here, and haven’t had one since. My husband can’t drive (epileptic), so we rely on the bus system for everything – it actually is pretty good about getting us where we want to go in a reasonable amount of time. Metro is pretty good about staying on schedule (most of the time) and has a wide area it serves. If you can’t get there by Metro, there are other bus systems it connects with, and you can get a bus pass that is good on all the systems (you may have to pay a little bit extra, but no more than $1 or so. I do recommend getting a bus pass if you will be riding the bus frequently.) It’s also a great way to explore the city.

Weather can be a downer, especially if you are at all suseptible to SAD (as I am). It’s generally gray (drizzley to rainy) from September through May, with additional gray days through mid-July. But when it’s sunny, it’s GORGEOUS!!

Incidentally, when are you coming up? Maybe we Seattle Dopers can hold a get-together to welcome you! (Who’s with me on this?)

I stand corrected on the University Avenue/Way error. For years, when friend would want to get together there, we’d just say “on University” or “the Ave.”

It’ll probably elicit friendly inquiries.

Fast internet access is readily available in Seattle and the Eastside (Bellevue, Kirkland, Redmond). Some of the outlying 'burbs and towns, maybe, maybe not yet.

Audrey, when the heck are moving up?
Since I have the feeling she’ll tell me the onus of this decision is on me, I think it’ll be July/August, pending the terms of my current lease.

It is much easier to live in Bellevue/Redmond and commute to Seattle than to go the other way. (neither is a wonderful state of affairs, but that’s the best of the two options.)

That is so cute…
The bridges are backed up from about 7am - 11am (ok, around 10:30, there are only patches of stop and go - and you’re moving the grand majority of the time) and then from about 3:30pm to about 7 pm. When I used to do it daily, what was technically a 15 minute drive (really late at night, or on a weekend) into about an hour on a normal day. On a bad day, 90 minutes, in the car, hating my fellow man. At least no one honks.

There is one indispensable web site for cross-lake commuters. Damn I wish they’d do something like that in Boston.

Sequim is pronounce “skwim”, and try not to laugh the first time someone mentions Humptulips.

Tukwila is pronounced, “Tuck-WILL-a” or “T-QUILL-a.” I’ve heard some bizarre renditions from friends in New England.
BTW, I recently overheard some ladies in Spokane (the east end of the state) talking about Mexican food. They talked about eating tay-coes.

I moved to Seattle in 1990 from So Cal and have basically been here ever since. I love it here and can’t imagine living anywhere else (except for SF about 3-4 months out of the year, but I digress). I’ve travelled throughout the US, Europe, Asia, and the Middle East and bar none, Seattle is the best overall city to live in, IMHO. Here are my observations (thank you OrcaChow for the outline):

Weather: Oct-May are the dreary, cloudy, cold, rainy months. We average 36" of rain each year. Not a lot compared to some cities, but it comes down slowly, like a leaking faucet. More than anything, it’s the cloudiness that gets people down more than the rain. June-Sep are THE best months here in the world!: sunny, mid 70s-low 80s, and occasional “heat” wave (85+) and low humidity. Absolutely perfect, with long days, and hardly any mosquitos! At the peak of summer, it doesn’t get completely dark until after 10pm!

Traffic: OK, it’s bad. My solution, live near your workplace and walk, ride your bike, or take the bus as much as possible. Going across Lake WA (520 or I-90) are risky propositions either direction during rush hour. Yes, it is a natural form of birth/population control, it seems.

And there are really bad drivers here. Three biggest complaints: 1) driving slow in the fast lane, 2) can’t merge properly, 3) indecision at 4-way stops. Kahnnnn!!!

Housing: Recently, the market has been hot hot hot, especially the closer to downtown Seattle you get, but there are bargains to be had. Compared to what you are used to in HI, you shouldn’t be shocked at all. Belltown (just north of downtown) is the up-and-coming urban neighborhood to be in for young, urban, empty-nester types. But the rents/housing costs reflect that as well.

Arts & Entertainment: great live music, dance, and club scene. We are mavens for movies, pubs, coffee houses, and anything else that can be done indoors during the winter. Museums, theatre arts, and sports are metropolitan quality. But I still feel Seattle is a small city trying to be big. That’s why I like it. Most of the amenities of a big city without the big city problems. I lived in SF for a while and, although I think it is one of the world-class cities, it can get tiring at times (crime, crowdedness, cost of living, unfriendliness).

Food: We are in Thai heaven. Basically, any cuisine you want, you can get it. The food is awesome here and so are the restaurants! 'Nuff said.

Bellevue & Redmond (aka The Eastside): Being a city slicker and former So Cal resident, I have a personal bias against all that the Eastside represents. But that is me. It is the bastion of suburbia, families with kids, 3-car garages, empty sidewalks, cultural wasteland, and sprawl. But there are pockets of urbanism developing as the population has increased (e.g., Bellevue, Kirkland, Redmond). People who live in Seattle tend to be younger, single, city slickers, and desire to be closer to the nightlife and cultural riches that are to be had. These are generalizations, but I think fairly represent the different lifestyles you can expect.

Outdoors: You name it, you can do it here, during all times of the year. Skiing is not great unless you drive 4+ hours, but it is OK. Kayaking, hiking, biking, skating, climbing, diving…it’s all here. An outdoors paradise for the active person or those that just appreciate it. This is truly a beautiful place and we have the rain/weather and geography to thank for it. Most people accept and embrace this fact and appreciate what it brings. If you can come to terms with it, you’ll come to think of this as your permanent home. If you can’t, you’ll probably want to leave after three months.

Hatred for Californians: Over-rated. I have not personally experienced or witnessed “hate” crimes against Californians. People in Seattle come from all parts of the US and world and it is actually rare to run into a true native (born and raised). Anybody that razzes you is probably not even from here (total population of WA is about 5.5 million)! In general, the weather keeps us all at a distance at first, which makes us appear cold and indifferent. But behind the facade are generally very nice, socialable people that like to have fun, are conscious of our environment, typically liberal, and like to read, drink a lot of beer and coffee, and hang out with friends. It just takes a little longer to get to know us.

The key to survival in Seattle is a good network of friends and family to survive the dark winters. Hope that helps. Good luck with your move, if you decide to do it. I think you will not regret it.

Just what I was going to ask you tonight. And yes, the onus of this decision is on you… :wink:

I’ve got a few moments to spare in the library as I wait for my ride, so I’d thought I’d check in to this thread. Thanks for the responses, everyone; this stuff’s better than what the books have been telling me.

Before I forget, though: hey Robot Arm! That Dixie’s you mentioned-- do they have that trash can lid thing, that has the greasy french fries and chicken and ribs and catfish and all that good stuff? If that’s them, we’ve got two of them here in Hawaii. Gosh, I love that place.

Thanks for the billiards places names, btw.

I need to go downstairs and interrogate the circulation desk people now, but I’ll come back and ask more questions as soon as I get home. Thanks again, everybody. I’m looking forward to this move even more now.

Hey, how come nobody’s talking about the earthquake?

Nah, the Dixie’s in Bellevue is one of a kind. I think it started as Porter’s Automotive, a good place to get a brake job on a Winnebago. Well, Mr. Porter used to live down in Louisiana or something, and used to do all the cooking for his church picnics. So he turned the front room of his garage into a barbecue stand and named it for his wife. The food is served on styrofoam and the drinks are in cans, whether you order it “to go” or not. I haven’t been back for a couple years, so maybe success has taken over a little (it was popular with Microsofties and players for the Seahawks). That one place had as much authentic style as the rest of Bellevue put together.

By the way, if you go there, and there’s a guy walking around the dining room saying “Have you met The Man?”, be real careful. “The Man” is Mr. Porter’s hot sauce, there are no words to do it justice.

Post-interrogation now, and my head really hurts.

A big thank you to everyone who has posted here, especially OrcaChow. I’ll be referring to this thread often in the coming months, I think, so if anyone thinks of anything they’d like to add in the meantime, please do.

If it happens, a Seattle Dopefest would be great. That way, we’d be able to thank you guys in person for your tips and well-wishes. (I know you’re in Cali, obfus, so maybe on the way up we’ll give you and Baglady a shaka sign as we pass by… :D)

lacklustery– What earthquake?

And here I was thinking I was the only Seattle doper! Were must have a dopefest sometime.

We had a Dopefest a while back. Pretty good turnout, too. It was at (poor grammar alert) me and my wife’s favorite restaurant, Two Dagos from Texas.

Others respondents have already covered most of the high points: Rain is oversold (we get less rain, measured in inches, than places like New York; we just have fewer days without clouds, so it seems grayer and wetter here). Traffic is truly nasty (I’m currently working at an Eastside software place; my drive home to just south of Northgate Mall takes 15 minutes with no traffic, and 90 minutes in rush hour). Food, arts, outdoors, all of this is spectacular. (Oh, BTW, Robot Arm, I heard the 211 folded.) One extra item worth noting: Seattleites are the number two or three moviegoers, per capita, in the U.S., so we’ve got lots of great theatres, a couple of repertory/fringe houses, and the Best Video Store In The World.

Now, as fair warning before you move, here are some things that aren’t so great.

Both of the daily newspapers (the Times and the Post-Intelligencer, which everyone calls the PI) stink. The Times used to be the afternoon paper, but recently they shifted to the morning in a rather transparent attempt to drive the PI out of business. This predatory philosophy was also on display during the recent newspaper-worker strike, in which the rank and file got seriously hosed. If you enjoy solid investigatory journalism, you’ll be out of luck here.

The real estate market is, as described, insane. Apartment vacancy rates hover around 2% (normal national rates are over 5%). The current dot-com shakeup has been hitting Seattle especially hard, though, meaning a lot of those Internet billionaires are losing their on-paper wealth, so maybe this will change soon. I wouldn’t hold my breath, though.

Politically speaking, Seattle is a liberal stronghold in a very conservative state. In other words, whenever the city tries to do something progressive, voters from the rest of the state swat it down if they can. That’s a big part of why the traffic mess has been so difficult to solve; we’ve been trying to come up with something to take some weight off the freeway (the current proposal, which is well-intentioned but rather flawed, is a light rail system), but initiative-happy activist loon Tim Eyman and others like him keep throwing up financial roadblocks that get passed on the rural statewide vote. As you can tell, I have a rather strong partisan bent on this issue, but Seattle progressives find this stuff infuriating. Another thing that drives progressives batty: The city happily rolls over for pretty much any big-business request (the stadium debacles, Microsoft tax breaks, that $#%*@ parking garage, etc.). This seems to be changing slightly (the aquarium proposal is being delayed), but it’s still a major annoyance.

Actually, it would be more accurate to characterize Seattle as being populated by a lot of “SUV liberals.” In other words, they vote heavily Democratic, they like the idea of protecting salmon runs, and they dutifully fill their recycle bins… but they also drive big SUVs, they’re confused and irritated by the forward-looking architectural plan for the new library, and they seem unconcerned by the ongoing gentrification of the city. Seattle is also strongly racially divided; the only true melting pot is the International District, which it sounds like lacklustery is happy to live in. Overall, Seattle’s kind of a weird mix, culturally and philosophically, and I’m not the first to comment on it.

Oh, and one last thing, since lacklustery mentioned it: Seattle is going to be destroyed by an earthquake in your lifetime. Could be five minutes from now, could be in forty years, but it will happen. We’re woefully unprepared; instead of regular quakes, like in California, we get a tiny little one (4-ish) every now and then, with a monster every few generations. California is prepared because they’re constantly reminded; we’re going to suffer badly because the big ones (and we’re talking really big) are so infrequent (socially and politically speaking) that we forget to be worried. Major parts of downtown are built on fill, and will simply collapse. (Remember the double-decker freeway in San Francisco? We’ve got something that’ll make that look like an HO-scale train set, called the Alaskan Way Viaduct.) We’ve also got more bridges per mile of road than almost anywhere else in the U.S., and few of them are seismically stable. Every place has disaster potential – hurricane, flood, wildfire, whatever – but Seattle is unique for its complete lack of concern or preparation for a major catastrophe that everybody knows is coming sooner or later.

But still, even given that, this is my preferred place to live, far and away. I hope you enjoy it too.

Seattle has GREAT seafood restaurants, on par with Boston. In particular, the local salmon is great, and the clams are fantastic.
To Seattle area dopers:
is “ETTA’S” restaurant still open (near Pike Place market?) They have the best seafood I’ve ever tasted-and if they have “Copper River” salmon-it is to die for!