So, I’m stationed (“stuck” is another word) here at McConnell AFB just outside of Wichita, Kansas. The problem is, it seems that the base is located too far from downtown Wichita to make walking into town practical, and I can’t afford to buy a new car at the moment, due to pre-existing college debts.
Looking on Craigslist, I see various offers for used cars, ranging from a Honda Civic going for $2K, to a '92 Crown Vic going for $200 (must sell now!). Assuming that I have no intentions of using one of these cheap cars to do anything more strenuous than to go into town or to work, what things should I keep in mind when buying a clunker for local use? Things to consider is that it has to be legal to drive on base, whatever those restrictions might be, and that this is most likely a short-term investment for me (my parents are planning to send me their old car as soon as their budget allows for buying another gently-used car for themselves).
Aside from that, any brands or models in particular that are reputed for longevity? How much should I set as a minimum before a used car likely becomes not worth the trouble?
I’ve gotten decent used cars for $1000 but I would have it inspected before purchase by a trusted mechanic (at your cost of course).
I once looked at a 10 year old Honda Civic, which is usually a very good car for longevity, and my mechanic told me it was so rusted out underneath I should have it towed back to wherever it came from rather than drive it! Talk about dodging a bullet!
Usually all old beaters will have some problems, but not all problems affect safety - like a stuck window or a door that will no longer unlock except from the inside or whatever. That stuff you can live with in the short term.
I’m an expert in this. When I was in high school and college, I learned the hard way about buying cheap beaters.
First, do your homework and find out what cars have great reputations and are easy to maintain. You’re looking at Hondas and Toyotas primarily here. An owner who has changed the oil and done little else to these cars will be giving you a solid short mileage trip machine.
Second, whenever possible, try to buy from the original owner. I bought my first car from a GI - a 1981 Isuzu I-Mark. He bought it to commute from the base and town, and he took really good care of it. That car lasted a while - it died because I didn’t take the best care of it, and I didn’t have the money for PM.
I would avoid cheap American and Korean cars. Think about your GM rebadge jobs - Cavalier/Sunbirds, and early Hyundais and Kias. I’m sure the cars are good now but they were shite when they first came off the assembly line. What I’d recommend is getting a Consumer Reports Car Guide from a few years back, and looking at their highly rated cars. You’ll see Toyotas and Hondas (and sometimes Nissans and Mazdas) at the top of the lists.
Hello Again has got it right. The $50 or whatever it costs to hire a mechanic to look over the car is worth his price, ten times over.
Cool, bounced another email off my dad asking about the car (and telling him what I’m up to, talking about the new shower curtain in the bathroom, etc. so it’s not just me whining about the car), so I’ll see what his input is. Also, just made friends with a guy who has a car (oh, the opportunities to meet people in the military while having to hang out in tornado shelters), so I guess the “edge” of needing a car is a bit gone now.
Still, collating all the advice, so keep it coming. Mostly looking at stuff with a reputation. How much would you hesitate to buy an 89 Ford Ranger? I hear those trucks have a reputation for being darn near indestructable, but 20 years is a long time for anything, right?
And for when I ever do decide to get a new car, is there any way to own a Toyota Prius and retain my man card? That gas mileage is insane.
But purely on an economic basis, I’m not sure that the extra cost of a Prius is ever recovered through the increase in fuel efficiency. So you might just get a high-mileage gas-powered car instead.
If you focus on a car that is really cheap but still runs acceptably well, your total investment will be minimal. This argues that you should forsake fuel efficiency and models that have excellent long-term reliability, as these are what appeal to others and thus drive up the cost. A gas guzzler (e.g. that Crown Vic) that runs well but has cosmetic issues (say, some fender scrapes) can be had really cheaply (well under $1000) and will probably sell for about the same when you’re done with it.
As others have noted, there is a strong argument for having a potential purchase checked by a savvy mechanic.
If I was worried about whether a car would give me trouble several years or several thousand miles down the road, I’d check the reliability ratings for that make and model. If I was only concerned about the immediate future, I’d ask a mechanic to check that particular car for any current problems.
I think the “longevity” comment was referring to the fact that the car will have been around the block a few times before he buys it, so he wants one that’s likely to have a few more miles left in her by the time he’s behind the wheel. If I’m looking at two 1989s with 200k-plus miles, all other things being equal I’ll take the Honda over the Mercury, fr’ex.
Not much else to add, except a long history of successful beater-buying using the excellent advice above to get a mechanic to check it out before you buy. Generalized make and model advice will get you started, but a dutifully-maintained-but-rusty Probe beats a shiny black Camry with a thrown rod any day.
You might even luck out and find one that’s in better condition than the owner thinks it is based solely on aesthetics. The first car I ever bought was an '87 Chevy Celebrity wagon, primer-red with rust-colored trim (:D), that the owner said was all original parts. On inspection, turned out the thing must’ve had the entire power train replaced sometime before they bought it. He was asking three hundred; I gave him five and called it a day.
