Depends how much you drive your car. You’re getting the Long Range, right? IMHO, if you’re driving, say, less than 60 miles a day as an average, you’ve got very little to worry about.
60 miles a day on 110? That cuts it pretty close. I can just eke out 5 mi/h on 110 but 4 mi/h is the safer bet. That means 15 hours/day to charge on 110 for 60 mi.
I’m still on 110 but my roundtrip commute is <10 mi. I’d be ok with up to 40 mi but not much more. Not sure what effect cold weather has.
A typical day would be 30 miles, but with weekly (or more) 60 mile days.
I will only get 9 hours of cheap charging, so probably just enough to recover a days commute. I usually won’t care if I’m short a few miles in the morning, as, just like sleep, I’ll catch up on the weekends. I’m not even concerned about the nights where it’s -3F, because those are rare here. It’s mostly the 3-4 months with nightly lows in the 20s.
If I lose 1-2 amps keeping the battery warm, charging will be very slow. If I only lose 1-2 amps getting the battery up to temperature for the first 30 minutes, and can then use all the amps for charging, I can probably survive on 110 in the winter. Knowing I have an easy backup across the street will let me experiment without ever getting in a bad situation. Though, I’m not looking forward to getting the fully charged car at 11:30pm when it’s -3F with 30mph winds, too far for fetch.
The frustrating thing is I have 30 amps unused for the dryer (I have a gas dryer), and 40 amps for a baseboard heater I never use and can sacrifice. They’re both in rooms next to the garage, but unfortunately on the wrong walls.
Yeah, but I’m not counting on fully recharging every night. With around 300 miles of range, if you use 50 miles on Monday, and recharge such that you start with ~285 miles on Tuesday for another 50 mile day… you’re fine for quite some time. Then you may have a chance to pick up a 30-40 amp charge at the grocery store or restaurant, or if you spend weekend mostly around the house charging for 30 or more hours at a shot.
I’m saying this with the recognition that a consistent schedule is a fantastic sedative for range anxiety, and without range anxiety, there’s no need to think about fully recharging most days.
I would strongly recommend getting someone just to knock out the drywall (fingers crossed it is that easy?) and flip that outlet around. That heavy gauge wire can be quite dear to run a new line into the garage.
Yep; that’s one nice thing about a giant battery. My driving pattern works the opposite way–short daily commute but occasional long trips on the weekend. Sometimes I’ll start a week with only 50 miles of range, which takes the rest of the week to fill up. No biggie.
Yeah, I wonder how this works out. You might have to cruise some Tesla forums for people with direct experience. Would an insulated car cover help, maybe?
All true. There’s no need to have a 100% charge every night, any more than it’s necessary with a gas car. As I mentioned, my driving habits are roughly the opposite, where I sometimes use weekdays to compensate for heavy weekend use, but in any case the large battery gives a lot of flexibility here. The real lesson is that with 110 charging, you are likely to have over 280 miles of range per week and it doesn’t matter how it’s distributed over the days. That’s over 14,000 mi/year, which is more than most people drive (plus, some of that will be on public charging).
Oh yeah, if it was that easy it would already be done. The outlet is on the opposite wall. Neither my wife nor I care if there is conduit running across the ceiling in the laundry room, so it doesn’t sound too expensive. It’s the unknown unknowns I’m worried about, like why is the dryer’s ground running over an old coat hanger, or whatever crazy thing is going on. This house is randomly copper and aluminum, with some circuits switching in the middle, and that’s the “professional” stuff. The previous owners DIY stuff is even worse.
Here is an interesting article on the legal hurdles for taking Tesla private. As I read this, you can’t just have a company with 2,000-plus non-employee shareholders and not comply with various public disclosures (which seems to be Elon’s main goal). The article quotes two experts who say, “I know of no legal way to offer public shareholders of a listed company an equity security while also going private,” and “I don’t think it works.” It also points out that the typical way to take a company private is to buy up all the shares held by the public – not just let the public hold on to them.
Sounds like the SEC is investigating the tweet and the plan generally.
That’s a good article. I wonder if there is something that is in play already because otherwise it seems foolish to casually drop news like that in tweets. Perhaps some notional investment fund maintained by Fidelity that mirrors internal valuations. I’ll update if I get a proxy vote request.
Question for the automotive guys (or anyone, I suppose):
Tesla has said that full self-driving will require a HW upgrade. The new module is a drop-in replacement for the existing GPU-based module. The current module is sufficient for basic Autopilot, just not FSD.
Can they use the old modules in new vehicles (sold with just Autopilot) after some kind of re-qualification step? The modules don’t wear out in any significant way, at least not on these timeframes. But I wonder if there’s some legal reason preventing Tesla from putting used parts in a new vehicle.
I just ordered my Model 3! Dual Motor in Metalic Blue with Autopilot.
But did you use a referral code?
Can you use a referral code for a non-perf M3?
Woot! Congrats! You get a delivery time estimate?
Since the “DUAL MOTOR” badge consists of individual letters that can be moved, I have taken it upon myself to compose this list of anagrams which you may use free of charge:
TUMOR LOAD
A TURD LOOM
ADULT ROOM
MODULATOR
ULTRA DOOM
MORTAL DUO
Ack, just the perf model. Whoops, my bad.
Nope, not for the non-Performance model. But apparently I now have codes of my own to share if you run out.
You use the term “old module” (meaning older GPU version vs newer ASIC version) and then you use the term “used parts” (meaning not just older version but has been used in a different vehicle) which makes the question unclear.
If they were going to put the GPU version into a car, seems like they would just use new (as in not used yet) GPU hardware that is in stock. Why would they want to use “used” parts?
I think he’s suggesting that when a current Tesla owner wants the Full Self-Driving capability they will need their New Module and he’s wondering if Tesla could then put the Old Module into a new vehicle for an owner who only wants the Enhanced Autopilot.
In other words, not ‘waste’ a New Module on a vehicle that doesn’t need it while at the same time not continue manufacturing the Old Module
you’d have to ask Tesla, because there’s no “standard” way manufacturers handle that. I know in car companies I’ve worked with/for in the past, modules which had either safety or regulatory implications (e.g. ABS, PCM, cluster/odometer) were VIN coded and would not function if the stored VIN didn’t match other modules. the dealer diagnostic tools could re-code said modules if replaced during an approved repair. others (like Harley-Davidson) will “marry” a critical module to the bike’s VIN and from that point forward can never be used on another bike. IIRC this is mostly done to try to prevent odometer fraud.