Testing the dehumidifier

I have this 70-pint dehumidifier running on high, and I have a hose running from it to a drain. But the amount of water coming out seems kind of low.

I could take the hose off and let the water collect in the bucket, but I wonder how much I should expect.

The 70-pint rating means 70 pints per day, but I figure the rating is based on running in an environment with a certain relative humidity, so I might get more or less.

Generally, I have about 50% relative humidity per my separate hygrometer. If I set the dehumidifier’s humidistat to 40% let it run for an hour, how much water should I expect to get (assuming my space is large enough that it doesn’t significantly lower the r.h. during the hour)?

Any ideas?

Thanks!

The short answer: Yes, this can be calculated, but it is complicated. Your BEST BET is to go with how the room feels to you. So, how does the room feel??? If the room feels stuffy or the walls are damp, the humidity is probably too high. 60% or higher is problematic of mold issues and uncomfortable. Or, 40% or lower is problematic - being too dry causing static discharge (bad for your PC), dry skin, and cracks in wooden objects (furniture, etc.)

That said, you might see what electronic gizmo is on the market at Radio Shack, for one. You will want a device that can measure relative humidity. Preferably, it should give you dry bulb temperature (i.e.: the temp we can feel and readily understand). If not too expensive, it wouldn’t hurt if it could measure wet bulb temperature, as well. (FYI: This device may be marketed as a digital hygrometer.)

Ok, now if you STILL want to calculate the actual flowrate of moisture off the dehumifier, this can be done BUT first: (a) You’d have a bigger challenge. Can you measure the airflow across the dehumidifier? I understand Radio Shack sells a hand-held anemometer, but I don’t know how accurately it can measure low wind speeds. Or, you might have to rig up a child’s pinwheel toy to take some empirical airflow data and convert to cfm, preferably. (However, a child’s pin wheel toy may offer too much resistance to turning at low flows. Try applying some petroleum jelly to the axle with a cotton swab, if possible.)

(b) Next, you need to measure both the dry bulb and wet bulb temperatures of the room you are trying to dehumidify.

© You’d have to learn how to read a psychrometric chart. Also, you need to understand the difference between relative humidity (%RH) and specific (i.e. an absolute measure of) humidity. FYI: The latter is sometimes called the humdity ratio. Often, this value is expressed in units of lbs moisture/lb dry air. But, ot can also be expressed as grains of moisture/lb dry air. To convert from grains of moisture to lbs of moisture, divide grains by 7000. (Yes, specific humidity is a small number when expressed in lbs moisture…hence, grains is a more convenient unit, at times.)

To learn this, you’ll have to consult either a thermodynamics book, mechanical engineer’s handbook, or HVAC handbook. Look for a book that gives examples with graphics to supplement the text since the psychrometric chart can be tricky to read correctly.

Hope this gives you some food for thought! - Jinx

Hint: If you are getting a lot less moisture out of the dehumidifier than you expect, this probably means the coil is not getting cold enough to pull the mositure from the air.

Lesson for today: Air has to be sufficiently cooled (at or below the dewpoint) to dehumidify it.

  • Jinx :cool:

I have a 70-pint dehumidifier set at 40% rel. humidity. The air-conditioner by itself keeps the house at 60%. The dehumidifier is always on. I have to empty the bucket about every 24 hours. This is in Florida where the outside r.h. is always around 90%.

That was close to what I was asking. Thanks for the info!